wiring for dummies

[Anonymous]

Transformers are really down to personal preference - generally bigger is better . depends what controller you use and what input it needs low voltage AC DC 18 volts or 24 volts . select your controller first the shop around - some garden lighting transformers may work , but you need to check requirements and if you use LGB point motors you will need AC at about 12 to 18 volts .Sorry I cannot give specifics but it really does depend on likely load and controller used.

[cutlass12001]

I had the 6200 and was told that it only had 2-3 amps for actual track power. I asked a lot of questions about this and finally decided on a 10 amp power supply from Crest to do the power for both of my tracks. I installed a second track this year. Don' t have any pictures yet, but will have in little while. I have my tracks controlled with the Crest Walk Around engineer. If I want or need, I can always put the accessories, lights, or other things on the 6200 to supply power.

[Anonymous]

Thank you all for the input. I am also curious about the type, brand and/or size of transformers that work for any of you that are running two tracks. We plan to have G scale on the biggest track and then on the inner circle, elevated, run O scale: raw brass track. We have laid it all out on paper, and started marking the backyard....now I need to order the stone and the dirt.

I think I'll go with feed clamps and grease to aviod setting fire to anything, esp. me!

[Anonymous]

If you have aristocraft rails you can use the screws onderneath with wire terminations crimped to your cables . specialist feed clamps are probably an easier option in conjunction with LGB conductive grease . I used to solder link wires aross all my joints direct to track but it results in melted ties (sleepers) burnt fingers and an inordinate amount of bad language . Acually set fire to my shirt with a gas torch once ....

[Ray Dunakin]

How do most folks connect the power leads to the rails? Do you solder them directly to the rails, or use special rail clamps? Or something else?

[dwbeckett]

If you chose not to solder the joints and/or not use shrink sleeves then atleast use some type on non conductive coating on all of your joints. this will slow down the corrosion ( you know the green stuff ) a major cause of lost power after time . And don't forget to read the instructions that came with your turnouts, some require the above if used outdoors . My stainless do. [banghead]

[Anonymous]

basic principle on all low voltage wiring is to keep the cable resistance low . use the heaviest cable you can for your primary circuit then feed off to individual items . Personally i prefer to solder all joints and use heat shrink sleeve over the joints.

[tangerine-jack]

I would suggest a separate transformer for powering the accessories and keep the track to a dedicated circuit. I like to use an old train set controller for accessories so I can vary the voltage as needed. There are about 9,000 ways to wire all this up, but the bottom line is that it is still 2 wire DC and if you have any experience in HO scale the rules are the same, just the wire is bigger. A trip to the library or hobby store will get you a book on “wiring your model railroad”, there are several in print and all are useful.

[Anonymous]

[:p]This is our second opportunity to create a garden rr. The first was OK, but we didn't get much consistant track power and we never got around to powering accessaries.

Our new home has an almost flat backyard, which will be great to build our raised rr on. I always opt to build up rather than dig down! Now we want to do something a bit more exciting. We plan to have 2 tracks: one approx. 115' and the other interier 70-80'. Other items to be powered would be street lts, ferris wheel, house lts, rr crossing, and such.

The transformer I have now is a Train 6200: 60VA. I probably need to have a bit more power, but would like some suggestions. I also need some input on the correct way to wire the whole thing.

Thanks a bunch!