Soldering rails; installing switches

[Ray Dunakin]

I need to join two rails permanently. I figured I'd use standard rail joiners and run solder into the joints. I'm using a propane torch to heat the rails but the solder just beads up on the rail. Any suggestions?

Also, I've heard that some folks mount their switches on concrete board or other such material before installing them. What's your opinion on this? I'm floating my track on ballast, and wonder if my switches should be mounted this way or not.

[ttrigg]

Ray;

Go to your local plumbing supply. Get yourself a bottle of "flux". Then:
1. buff the rails shinny clean.
2. clean the inside of the rail joiner with SMALL strips if sandpaper, as best as you can.
3. fill the rail joiner with flux
4 put some more on the rails.
5. assemble
6. support in such a way as to have full access to the bottom of the rail joiner.
7. apply the flame to the bottom of the rail joiner
8. touch your solder to the top of the rail joiner and if it is hot enought it will flow into the rail joiner and continue to flow to the oter rail and to the other side.
9. allow to cool before moving.

switches, which ever you like.

[Anonymous]

agreed trigg - works for me using that method - tho if you can ease the tie strips back a bit it helps

[piercedan]

Keep a wet rag handy too cool off the railsafter soldering.

Do not place the rag on the joint, but start 6 inches away and slowly drag the rag to the joint. This will cool off the rail and not shock the solder into giving a 'cold' joint and allow the rail to cool faster and not melt ties.

Also, use a brass wire bru***o clean the rails, do not use any thing with steel as the motors on the bottom of engines can pick up steel particles.. Test the brush with a magnet.

[ttrigg]

When I'm doing my soldering it is to join a pair of 5 ft LGB "flex" rails, not yet having had the ties installed. So in all fairness to Dave and Dan above, I should add a step zero to the above list:

0 - remove/protect the ties from melting heat. .