Track Power Connection Question

[Anonymous]

no mains outdoors is a good idea . be aware that if you run low voltage ie 12 volts a long way you lose voltage due to cable resistance . so no bell wire ... use the heaviest cable gauge you can , house mains cable in larger sizes or audio speaker cable oterwise you may find your trains go real slow.have to say with a nine year old kid running mine sometimes it might be a plus having less speed.

[Anonymous]

Matthew im sorry I don't have a picture of it . Basicly Bridgewerks makes a real nice 2 pin conector that plugs right into their transformer . Then at the track conection the maker of the rail clamps has a clamp for heavy guage wires to the rail . You could also solder this conection too and save a couple of bucks .

[MTCarpenter]

Peter - that's actually a great idea. My only though is that this is not going to be the final resting place of this rail line and I'm up in the air about battery power. Right now the cost is a little out of my reach in respect to some of the other things I'm trying to do around the house.

[Anonymous]

Hi MTCarpenter

I also run an outdoor model railroad, and the thought of having high voltage outdoors really scares me as I also have small kids. So to solve my power problems, I have my transformer and Aristocraft radio control reciever indoors. The wires for the track power then run through a small hole in the wall and out to the track. This meens that I only have to have thr transmitter outdoors - keeping things nice and safe.

Good luck on the project.

Cheers Peter

[MTCarpenter]

Mike D. Thanks for the tip. Would you happen to have a picture of the way it's hooked up and the way you plug it in? I'm a visual learner... :)

[Anonymous]

My railroad is about 300 feet of track and it only has one power lead to it from the Bridgewerks transformer . All the track connectors are rail clamps . The lead to the transformer to the track is about 10 feet long and is on top of my pool deck so I can just walk out to the deck and plug in two wires. One is the AC and the other is 12 guage outdoor lighting wire with the ends soldered and put in Bridgewerks conectors . It takes more time to carry it out than to hook it up . Been up so far 3 years hassle free . Using a mix of Aristo , USA and LGB track . Hope this helps some . Good luck with the railroad ! Mike D.http://www.planetdonnstudios.com/mike/index.html

[John Busby]

Hi rpc 7271
IMHO there is only one respectable way to do away with track power all together.
That is to go live steam or Live diesle( if there is such a term)[:D]
Using battery power only for battery powered prototypes and all with
manual control so you have to drive them[:D]
And believe me all other methods are cheaper than that.
regards John

[rpc7271]

Convert all the locos to Airwire 900 Battery power and forget the wiring. It will be cheaper in the long run.

[MTCarpenter]

dwbeckett and Capt Bob Johnson-

Thank you for your feedback!!

Siding! Got it. Yeah, I need to read the first two posts. I'm pretty bad about not always doing all my research first. Thanks for your patience with the noob!!

I've got the power going under the track, but I was worried about the bare wire coming in contact with the dirt, and potentially with water. But I was also looking for a way to hide/protect the wiring - not having to bring it inside all the time - as well as be able to bring the power supply and speed controller inside when I'm done. I currently just bring in the section of track that has the power leads hooked to them.

But I have to say that I've got some good ideas from talking to everyone here about what I'm going to try to do.

[Capt Bob Johnson]

I think the Aristo starter sets still come with that track to pac wire that has the little terminals to affix underneath the track! Check your directions!

As you grow into the hobby and get a bigger layout and bigger more modernistic locos, you're gonna outgrow that starter power pack. Not a bad thing in itself because when you do get more power, that becomes the power for the test track in your shop!

Once you do the permanent layout (not that any layout goes for long without additions or alterations) try feeding the power to the track every 100 feet or so!

[dwbeckett]

Aristocraft Track has screws on the bottem of the rail use these for your power connection points ,connect the wiring as above to the power supply. The team your look for is SIDING ,see first two postings for the fourum they have a lot of info.

[MTCarpenter]

Thanks davenower. It's Aristo track and basically it's going to be the 4' circle that you get with the starter set with the extender add on set - I think it's going to be about 6' or 8' from end to end (not linear). I'm planning on using the power supply from the starter kit. The track comes with two switches for a small side track (term?). I'm going to screw all the sections together with the little screws that come with the track as well.

I got the extender kit and the Aristo covered bridge for Father's Day, which my 2 year old keeps asking about, so.... Gotta get going!

[Anonymous]

If its a long track run it might be worth feeding at several points . You dont say what track you are using , if it is bolted as aristocraft or US fine but LGB might need conductive grease at the joints . Have to admit I use aristocraft with conductive grease but I like to play safe. Wish you many happy days railroading.

[MTCarpenter]

Very cool. Thanks for the info John.

[John Busby]

Hi MTCarpenter
My sugestion would be to do what I did in my floor days.
which was to get a long piece of two core cable carefully strip one end of the cable and solder the Track conection end of the cable to the rails.
The transformer end I had those funny push and grab conectors LGB use
on the transformer so I just tinned the wire.
My sugestion would be to use the same method bearing in mind that the treatment of the transformer end of the wire will vary depending on which brand of transformer you are using.
This way your wire is double insulated so has some protection, the track conection is a good one and it can still be put away if need be.
When you come to do the permenant layout you have a nice long track feed to get things running quickly knowing that the track conection end of the wire is good you can get fancy with the railway wiring when it is in the place shape ect that you want.
I have found from expierience that the screw track conections have the nasty habit of coming loose at inconvienient times so now on any layout even Temp
ones I always solder the track end to ensure a good conection very inportant on a single feed Temp line.
regards John

[MTCarpenter]

I'm looking at putting my track down in a semi permanent installation - in that it will be running in this area for anywhere from several months to even a year or so. It won't be it’s final resting place in the larger picture of things, but I do want to get things up and running!!!

It’s in an area that isn’t really convenient to running conduit and putting in a permanent power hook up. So, I'm wondering if anyone has any good ideas where I can leave all the track in place, but be able to take all the power/wires back inside when done running the train? I understand that I'll probably have to wiggle a wire under the track to connect to the inside rail (on a loop), but does anyone have a good way of being able to hook up the wires and take them off again?

I hope this makes sense...

And If there's any posts on this already, please direct me to them.