Scratchbuilding structures

[Anonymous]

OK, what's the best way to scratchbuild structures for outdoor use?? What material should be used? how do you protect it from the elements? What do you use to make the outside walls look realistic? Etc. etc.

Ken

[wd8jik]

Hello Ken and welcome .

You can find different types of material I have used on my site.

http://www.stratuswave.net/~wd8jik/

If I can be of any help getting you started let me know by E-mail.

Take care,
Yogi

[John Busby]

hi sterhogger
Try
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20358

This will take you from a sketch on a bit of paper to a finished building
in easy steps.
regards John

[Anonymous]

I am in the process of building my GRR. I use cypress wood for my scratch built structures. It’s weather resistant and readily available here in the South. It’s very easy to work with, almost like poplar. It’s also extremely durable and takes paint well. My RR is in a wooded area and subject to deadfall from the trees and other related debris from frequent rain storms, etc.. IME so far, wooden structures seem to work the best in this environment.

[ttrigg]

QUOTE: Originally posted by sterhogger

OK, what's the best way to scratchbuild structures for outdoor use?? What material should be used? how do you protect it from the elements? What do you use to make the outside walls look realistic? Etc. etc.

Ken

Best? Now that is a four letter word if there ever was one! Best, is a very good way to start some heated arguments. OK, enough of the sarcasm. Best for me is wood. I have worked with wood for over 40 years. I've tried working with styrene and to be completely honest, I botched it something fierce. I've seen other people produce masterpieces in plastics, but I just do not have the skills. I've seen other people work with (do not know the proper name, concrete sheet rock used around the shower) and do excellent work. Best will probably be something you are familiar with and currently have the tools and skills to work with.

[kstrong]

I'm using a product called Fiberock for the subwalls of my structures. I've been kind of halted in their construction of late, but hopefully will get back to them at some point.



More on their construction can be found here:
http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=34517

Later,

K

[whiterab]

I too am partial to wood. I use redwood and western red cedar for my buildings and bridges. It just looks better as it ages.

There are some tricks to building outside. For one thing don't try replicating the internal structure. Most of us don't detail the inside of buildings when they are part of an outdoor layout so the internal structure doesn't show.

One suggestion is to try one or two kits from companies such as Garden Texture or Smith Pond Junction to get a feel from the experts on how to build outside. Once you get the hang of it you can make just about anything.

[Anonymous]

I also like using wood. My structures will have a pressure treated 'foundation' with the rest of the structure being made from cedar.

[fontgeek]

I love wood, but you can end up fighting the grain and figure when going for scale.
If you are going to seal and paint it, then you don't have quite the same challenge.
A material I found kind of gives me the best of the stirene and the wood, I don't know if anybody else here as dealt with HDU (high density urethane) this is a foam product that was developed for the sign industry, it comes in various densities, and thickness's, it can be glued up to any dimensions, there is no grain or figure to fight, it can be worked just like wood, with the same tools, you can laminate or glue up mixed densities for bulk without the weight. The higher the density, the heavier the material, and the better the detail it will hold. You can save the dust, mix it with the glue to cast pieces or fill nicks. the glue takes the stains and finishes just like the foam. It can be stained, painted, sandblasted, carved, etched, cut, routed, filed, etc. with spectacular results.
It doesn't warp, cup, bow, twist, shrink with exposure to the great outdoors.
And because of it's usability, there is no such thing as scrap.
There are a couple of manufactures of this stuff, and they will send you samples for free.
Coastal Enterprises www.precisionboard.com
and SignFoam, sorry, I don't know their address, but it shouldn't be too hard to find if anyone is interested.
Just a thought from the cheap seats.

[Pagardener]

I have scratch built a stable with plastic from Precision Products and it came out very nice..and I scratch built my 3 bay engine house..my sandhouse..my water tower..my barn..3 stores..and a small engine house all from wood (western red cedar and redwood)...I am much better with the wood than plastic ...tho I have built more than my share of PIKO and POLA kits..I prefer the wood for scratch building.
Barbara

[Pagardener]

I have scratch built a stable with plastic from Precision Products and it came out very nice..and I scratch built my 3 bay engine house..my sandhouse..my water tower..my barn..3 stores..and a small engine house all from wood (western red cedar and redwood)...I am much better with the wood than plastic ...tho I have built more than my share of PIKO and POLA kits..I prefer the wood for scratch building.
Barbara

[Anonymous]

I like wood and plastic - its really a question of what you prefer to work with - plastic can be made to look like anything including wood . wood is less versatile in that respect . Most of my structres are mixed media - wood sub base clad in styrene . Best suggestion is build a few and see what works for you.

[TheJoat]

Don't limit yourself - experiment!

I've used stone


plastic


wood


and brass...[:D]



The key is to make sure you have a good mechanical connection as well as a good glue. Use a good sealer on wood (Thompsons) and outdoor paint on plastic; I prefer Krylon here.

I like to use Quikrete Vinyl Patcher for building bases.


You can see more details over at my site.

[Anonymous]

Very nice Bruce - stone is very impressive indeed - Must have taken ages

[dlagrua]

Whatever material you choose much of the structures longevity will be determined on how the structure is sealed to the weather, protected from the elements and maintained.  If you use wood, seal prime and paint both inner and outside surfaces. If you use metal use SS or apply anodizing  bluing or a lacquer coating where appropriate. If you use stone, paint with silicone sealant. Even plastics will weather if not painted. If you live in a hot dry sunny area then also consider a retractable awning to prevent uv deterioration and remember structures on a garden railroad always require periodic maintenance.

[Anonymous]

I am presently working on a Dairy Bar, that once was in Pensacola Florida. I have an old photograph of the building and have created a pattern of each wall. After printing them out on paper, I spray mounted them to Louan plywood. after cutting out the window's and door's, with a scroll saw,  I am almost ready for assembly.

This is all done in HO scale. When finished, I will send photographs, of the completed project.

[perry1060]

I use a 9-ply birch for outside construction.

 

[Dixie Hobo]

Ken

I have been building 1:20.3 scale structures and accessories for a number of years. You can see my work on www.hoborails.com and e-mail me for information on construction methods and weather proof finishes if you would like.

Dixie Hobo

[Anonymous]

I built a barn using trated 1X6's, screwed and caulked together. For the roof I used a pice of wood from an old desk, then covered in real shingles. I cut the shingles in strips to look like rolled roofing material.  The shingle strips are held on with Liquid Nails.

The entire barn is also held together with Liquid Nails and all joints caulked. The bottom of the barn walls were covered with rolled electrical putty (like a snke) and then pressed on a 2 foot square patio block. Believe me, this massive structure isn't going any where. It's sealed so tight from insects I had to put a vent in it.

dan