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Hand Lay Track

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Hand Lay Track
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 1:09 PM
Hi,

I find track a little expensive, and so want to hand lay some. I can get rails and sleepers, so they are no problems, but I was wondering how you spike it (?) and how I make points? For example, how do I know I have the check rails in the right place?

Thanks,
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Posted by cabbage on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 1:30 PM
OK, First of all you need this URL:

www.brandbright.co.uk

There you will find most of the common systems for track -PECO, Tenmille and Brandbrights own system. Points are available as kits -you can even ask PECO to send you a set of plans -they cost about £1 each plus P&P.

The cost per length of commercial to hand made is not that much more.

Kent Garden Railway are about the best bet for commercial track -they will split boxes while places like Brandbright and Garden Railway Specialists will only ship whole boxes.

regards

ralph

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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 1:48 PM
Thanks Ralph, that sounds easy with the rail chairs that slide on! Just gotta figure out these points.
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Posted by FJ and G on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 2:23 PM
Agree. It's more a labor of love than cost savings. You could deliver pizzas in the amount of time you spend on handlaying track in a week to pay for twice the track you would have laid in the same time.

I keep a truck and freightcar handy for measuring clearances and I keep a piece of track handy as a gauge.
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Posted by Ray Dunakin on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 2:49 PM
Is there any place in the USA that sells tie plates and spikes for 332 rail? I'd like to hand lay track on my bridges since it's the only way to get the correct length and spacing of the ties.
 Visit www.raydunakin.com to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!
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Posted by RhB_HJ on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 4:12 PM
Hi there,

A very detailed description on how to build accurate (as in "in Gauge" whichever way you measure and staying there!) turnouts you'll find on my hobby website
http://www.rhb-grischun.ca/E/html/track.html
complete with list of materials and tools. The sub-base for the first batch was PT plywood - they get mounted on the elevated section of the layout.

The sub-base for the On-the-Ground turnouts will be 4.5mm PVC sheets to make sure there is no warpage and/or deterioration due to weather etc.

Cheers HJ http://www.rhb-grischun.ca/ http://www.easternmountainmodels.com
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 4:50 PM
Thanks HJ, but I'm having second thoughts now - it looks complicated!
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Posted by Curmudgeon on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 5:41 PM
A rule of thumb in the Pacific North West.

Based upon careful observations of those who have tried.

If you are retired, single, unlimited time, you can successfully maintain about 300 feet of hand-laid track.

Ties that either rot, shrink, or swell, spikes that pop out or rust to nothingness.

Herb Chaudiere had about 1100 feet, built long sections on a spline in the shop, carried it out and laid it.

That worked pretty good, but 10-12 years later it was rotting to nothingness, and when he died, he was in process of re-doing it all again.

If it's your thing, and you have experience from smaller scales in building track and switches, feel free.
If you are doing it because you think you're going to save money, attach a dollar figure to your hours, even a buck, and see what it costs you to build AND maintain.

Now, if you're in a gentler clime, maybe, but I did preface this with the Pacific North West.

TOC
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 7:03 PM
For the life of me i cannot understand why anyone would want to do this, however many do and its a free world, so good luck with it.

We here in Australia have our own club rail and we buy the sleepers by the lengths of three. And the way they have been designed is terrific, just about everyone uses LGB Points etc. but to each his own.

I have 160 m down and most of this club rail, i do have a problem which i am finding hard to overcome entirely but I have improved the situation considerable. That is when i do a curve which is all the time the finished track developes and negative camber which is very hard to get rid of. ie the outer rail gets to be lower than the inner rail and this is not a good thing believe me.

Rgds Ian
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Posted by RhB_HJ on Wednesday, April 26, 2006 11:23 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by iandor

For the life of me i cannot understand why anyone would want to do this, however many do and its a free world, so good luck with it.

.......................................................


Wellllllllll, good point!
OTOH some of us don't understand why anyone would subject themselves to the vagaries of LGB MTS.

Cheers HJ http://www.rhb-grischun.ca/ http://www.easternmountainmodels.com
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Posted by FJ and G on Thursday, April 27, 2006 7:09 AM
HJ,

So Weldabond will hold down stained ties??? I've had nothing but bad luck with gluing stained wood (perhaps b/c of the interaction of the oils with the glue). Nice to see that there's something that can glue stained ties (I'm using Thompson Waterseal for my stain, but now I'm gluing then staining).

Your site is one of the best I've seen on turnouts. Kudos
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Posted by RhB_HJ on Thursday, April 27, 2006 8:35 AM
Thank you David!

On the Weldbond: there are some bricklayers/stucco applicators who use it in situations where they can't apply/use the standard metal anchoring that is common for outside walls.
Cheers HJ http://www.rhb-grischun.ca/ http://www.easternmountainmodels.com
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 27, 2006 2:14 PM
QUOTE: For the life of me i cannot understand why anyone would want to do this, however many do and its a free world, so good luck with it.


That's a very negative view, but I don't like the look of LGB track much. I am more of an odd sleepered, randomly spaced sleeper man myself, and the uniformity of LGB track doesn't appeal.
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Posted by RhB_HJ on Thursday, April 27, 2006 2:30 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by dr5euss

QUOTE: For the life of me i cannot understand why anyone would want to do this, however many do and its a free world, so good luck with it.


That's a very negative view, but I don't like the look of LGB track much. I am more of an odd sleepered, randomly spaced sleeper man myself, and the uniformity of LGB track doesn't appeal.


George,

Not to worry.
There are a few other things, apart from hand laying track and turnouts, that Ian has a hard time understanding.
The intricacies of cambers, grades and radii are just three examples. [;)][;)]

BTW how many turnouts were you planning on building??
Cheers HJ http://www.rhb-grischun.ca/ http://www.easternmountainmodels.com
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 27, 2006 4:47 PM
Hi HJ,

I'm thinking 2 or 3 turnouts, but it could be more or less - I'm working my way round an L shaped layout, and literally haven't got that far yet.

Regards,
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Posted by Curmudgeon on Thursday, April 27, 2006 5:01 PM
FWIW, I use Llagas Creek track, 250 and even 215, on narrow-gauge ties, which are not set evenly on purpose.

They may NS, I use aluminum (or, aluminium), as I don't use track power.

ME makes some stuff, but not RTR switches.
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Posted by bman36 on Friday, April 28, 2006 9:44 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by dr5euss

QUOTE: For the life of me i cannot understand why anyone would want to do this, however many do and its a free world, so good luck with it.


That's a very negative view, but I don't like the look of LGB track much. I am more of an odd sleepered, randomly spaced sleeper man myself, and the uniformity of LGB track doesn't appeal.
Hi there,
Just wanted to say WELCOME to the forum. I use all LGB track on my layout. For me time is a huge consideration so this was my only option. Hand laid track has always interested me. One of our former members on this forum has a handlaid track layout in Minnesota. The climate there can be pretty nasty in Winter. So far so good for him. A LOT of work but the results were very impressive. If maintenance time is an issue for you then you may want to reconsider. As Dave (TOC) already pointed out...it will only last so long. OTOH...this is our hobby so that may make it all the more appealing. All the best to you. Enjoy the forum. Later eh...Brian.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, April 28, 2006 10:45 AM
Thanks everyone. The track's going to be indoors, so sleeper rotting isn't a problem.

I'm still stuck though!
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Posted by Curmudgeon on Friday, April 28, 2006 10:55 AM
Why are you stuck?
Look at Llagas.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, April 28, 2006 12:02 PM
I'm still thinking about whether I can build a point or not.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, April 28, 2006 12:24 PM
I'm handlaying Lagas Creek 250 on cypess ties. switches are # 6 and # 8.
Radius minum is 10'-0". Looks great and works well. Railroading of anykind requires maintenance. I like railroading so not looking for any shortcuts to satisfaction.
Enjoy the hobby no matter what kind of track or equipment you have. if your happy that's what the hobby is ll about.
KTSU&WFO
Mitch
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Posted by cabbage on Friday, April 28, 2006 1:30 PM
try reading this and have a think! the plans are easy to print out and you can even solder the rail to PC board...

http://www.davewatkins.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/track.htm

regards

ralph

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Posted by RhB_HJ on Friday, April 28, 2006 1:44 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by dr5euss

I'm still thinking about whether I can build a point or not.


George,

Have you got most of the tools?

Did you get the materials you don't have yet?

It isn't rocket science! You do it one step at a time.

And it is a lot easier for indoors since you can forget about a few potential problems!

[;)]
Cheers HJ http://www.rhb-grischun.ca/ http://www.easternmountainmodels.com
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Posted by brochhau on Wednesday, May 3, 2006 10:35 PM
I'm thinking of hand laying track as well and am also afraid of the points. One thing I found is Llagas offers NS frogs for about $15 each, and I am assuming that I can figure out how to get rails laid up to the frog. Should make things easier.

Just FYI...

Scott

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