Battery Operation

[grandpopswalt]

My locos are based on Bachmann's Big Hauler parts and running gear. Everything else is scratchbuilt. I use 24VDC servo gear-motors running on 22 onboard batteries, 6 in the tender with the radio and throttle (75MHZ) and the rest in the engine. I've also built an 0-4-0 tank engine (no tender) which uses a 12VDC motor with all 12 batteries crammed in with the radio and throttle. I use 24VAC constant voltage track power which is rectified on-board and keeps the 3000mah NiMh batteries charged.

The batteries are currently available from American Scientific Surplus for $1.75 each. So far I havn't had any problems with any of the batteries I've ordered. These batteries are slightly larger than a standard "AA" cell.

I'm currently completing work on my first engine, an 0-4-0 dockside switcher. All of the mechanics and electronics have been bench-tested during the design/buiding stage but the engine has not had any real-world layout exposure. If anyone has had any experience with constant voltage AC track power (or DC) with on-board batteries I'd like to exchange info with you.

Thanks

Walt Sarapa
Deep River, CT.

[grandpopswalt]

My locos are based on Bachmann's Big Hauler parts and running gear. Everything else is scratchbuilt. I use 24VDC servo gear-motors running on 22 onboard batteries, 6 in the tender with the radio and throttle (75MHZ) and the rest in the engine. I've also built an 0-4-0 tank engine (no tender) which uses a 12VDC motor with all 12 batteries crammed in with the radio and throttle. I use 24VAC constant voltage track power which is rectified on-board and keeps the 3000mah NiMh batteries charged.

The batteries are currently available from American Scientific Surplus for $1.75 each. So far I havn't had any problems with any of the batteries I've ordered. These batteries are slightly larger than a standard "AA" cell.

I'm currently completing work on my first engine, an 0-4-0 dockside switcher. All of the mechanics and electronics have been bench-tested during the design/buiding stage but the engine has not had any real-world layout exposure. If anyone has had any experience with constant voltage AC track power (or DC) with on-board batteries I'd like to exchange info with you.

Thanks

Walt Sarapa
Deep River, CT.

[Anonymous]

This is for Fredboyer. You asked about an R/C unit between batteries and motors. This works, is cheap, and is available at most comprehensive hobby shops dealing in R/C cars. That's CARS, not trains, sometimes we must tred in unfamiliar territory.

Assuming you have a battery pack of 12V or less, and a motor draw of only a couple of amps, such as a Bachman Climax, The Novack "SPY" electronic speed control or ESC as they are known will work well for you. They are rated as a seven cell unit, meaning top factory recommended voltage is 8.4 volts, but I have found that since the unit is rated tor 12 amps, the reduced current and increased voltage does not make for any heating problems. I regularly run mine on 12vdc, no problems ever. These units are really designed based on the power the motor consumes, and power = volts x amps. Don't take this voltage for current swap to the limit, but it does work up to a point. If you have room for a larger unit, Novack makes a unit called the "Rooster" which can handle an obscene amount of current, far more than locomotives ever would need. Either control provides the 4.8v needed for the radio receiver, so no extra batteries or wiring are needed. In selecting model car ESC units for locomotives, always get ones that reverse. Some top end racing controls have no reverse.

Couple either of these ESC units to a Futaba "Attack SR" two channel AM R/C unit, and you have a low cost winner under $100 + batteries. The only drawback between this and units made specifically for locomotives is that the transmitter must be on and sending signal all the time the locomotive is running. With interference the locomotive's operation may become jumpy.

[Anonymous]

This is for Fredboyer. You asked about an R/C unit between batteries and motors. This works, is cheap, and is available at most comprehensive hobby shops dealing in R/C cars. That's CARS, not trains, sometimes we must tred in unfamiliar territory.

Assuming you have a battery pack of 12V or less, and a motor draw of only a couple of amps, such as a Bachman Climax, The Novack "SPY" electronic speed control or ESC as they are known will work well for you. They are rated as a seven cell unit, meaning top factory recommended voltage is 8.4 volts, but I have found that since the unit is rated tor 12 amps, the reduced current and increased voltage does not make for any heating problems. I regularly run mine on 12vdc, no problems ever. These units are really designed based on the power the motor consumes, and power = volts x amps. Don't take this voltage for current swap to the limit, but it does work up to a point. If you have room for a larger unit, Novack makes a unit called the "Rooster" which can handle an obscene amount of current, far more than locomotives ever would need. Either control provides the 4.8v needed for the radio receiver, so no extra batteries or wiring are needed. In selecting model car ESC units for locomotives, always get ones that reverse. Some top end racing controls have no reverse.

Couple either of these ESC units to a Futaba "Attack SR" two channel AM R/C unit, and you have a low cost winner under $100 + batteries. The only drawback between this and units made specifically for locomotives is that the transmitter must be on and sending signal all the time the locomotive is running. With interference the locomotive's operation may become jumpy.

[Anonymous]

Sorry about that -- It's the period that's throwing you. Try typing www.bagrs.org (without any period) or use the full URL to http://www.colegroup.com/bagrs/tips/battery_op/grrbatop.html

[Anonymous]

Sorry about that -- It's the period that's throwing you. Try typing www.bagrs.org (without any period) or use the full URL to http://www.colegroup.com/bagrs/tips/battery_op/grrbatop.html

[cacole]

Batteryman,

Are you sure about that link? I get a newspaper organization's Web site called ColeGroup.com, with no link to anything about batteries.

[cacole]

Batteryman,

Are you sure about that link? I get a newspaper organization's Web site called ColeGroup.com, with no link to anything about batteries.

[Anonymous]

For anyone interested in battery operation I have written a manual that can be found on the Bay Area Garden Railway web-site-- www.bagrs.org. Go to the "tips and techniques page" and find the link to battery operation. All my traction units operate on battery power and radio control from a big LGB articulated down to a hand-pump rail car. One of these is a Bachmann Shay with batteries, radio and sound all in the "bunker". It runs for over three and a half hours on a charge. Several examples on the web-site.

[Anonymous]

For anyone interested in battery operation I have written a manual that can be found on the Bay Area Garden Railway web-site-- www.bagrs.org. Go to the "tips and techniques page" and find the link to battery operation. All my traction units operate on battery power and radio control from a big LGB articulated down to a hand-pump rail car. One of these is a Bachmann Shay with batteries, radio and sound all in the "bunker". It runs for over three and a half hours on a charge. Several examples on the web-site.

[Anonymous]

Well gang here goes... I am in the process of installing battery power and R/c control in my first engine. The control system is from RCS-rc.com. The R/c throttle is from tower hobbies. The instructions have been rather simple to follow and the electronics are really small and don't take much room. The batteries on the other hand are quite big and present a problem with placement. All components WILL fit in the tender so no extra battery car needed. I would recommend that if you have further questions you check out the forums on www.mylargescale.com. There are MANY more people on there and they are very willing to help with any questions you have. This a good forum but not enough people on it to be much help....

Scott Baxter
Thief River, Ely and Eastern Railway

[Anonymous]

Well gang here goes... I am in the process of installing battery power and R/c control in my first engine. The control system is from RCS-rc.com. The R/c throttle is from tower hobbies. The instructions have been rather simple to follow and the electronics are really small and don't take much room. The batteries on the other hand are quite big and present a problem with placement. All components WILL fit in the tender so no extra battery car needed. I would recommend that if you have further questions you check out the forums on www.mylargescale.com. There are MANY more people on there and they are very willing to help with any questions you have. This a good forum but not enough people on it to be much help....

Scott Baxter
Thief River, Ely and Eastern Railway

[Anonymous]

I'm a real lazy person on battery operation, put two motorcycle batteries in a boxcar and direct wired to the locomotive. Did put in a double pole double throw in both locomotive and boxcar, one to choose direction, other to choose between track and battery power. On the subject of RC frequencies. My cousin is the head of RC for the flying group out of Muncie, IN. They have prosecuted people using aircraft frequencies for surface equipment. If the aircraft frequency takes over someone's aircraft and the aircraft hits something, the charges can get very bad. Don't do it.

Now, if someone has put a inexpensive RC unit between the battery and the locomotive, I would like to know the brand.

[Anonymous]

I'm a real lazy person on battery operation, put two motorcycle batteries in a boxcar and direct wired to the locomotive. Did put in a double pole double throw in both locomotive and boxcar, one to choose direction, other to choose between track and battery power. On the subject of RC frequencies. My cousin is the head of RC for the flying group out of Muncie, IN. They have prosecuted people using aircraft frequencies for surface equipment. If the aircraft frequency takes over someone's aircraft and the aircraft hits something, the charges can get very bad. Don't do it.

Now, if someone has put a inexpensive RC unit between the battery and the locomotive, I would like to know the brand.

[Anonymous]

Hi David,
Wow another Victoria resident on the forum !!!!
I'm kind of new to this forum format and am not sure how, or whether, it is possible to find your email address. Mine is "[e-mail]", so if you would like to send me a note maybe we can arrange to get together.

[Anonymous]

Hi David,
Wow another Victoria resident on the forum !!!!
I'm kind of new to this forum format and am not sure how, or whether, it is possible to find your email address. Mine is "[e-mail]", so if you would like to send me a note maybe we can arrange to get together.

[Anonymous]

Hi! My name is David Steele I also live in Victoria and have an intrest in garden railways. I donot know the answer to your question but I thought I would touch base with you anyway as it was so nice to see a kindered spirit from my town posting a question.Why don't you leave me a message so we can get in touch if your interested Much thanks David.

[Anonymous]

Hi! My name is David Steele I also live in Victoria and have an intrest in garden railways. I donot know the answer to your question but I thought I would touch base with you anyway as it was so nice to see a kindered spirit from my town posting a question.Why don't you leave me a message so we can get in touch if your interested Much thanks David.

[Anonymous]

This really is not in response to previous replies, but I am a GARDEN RAILWAY BEGINNER and would very much appreciate any advice regarding battery / remote control operation.
I need to know how I should go about converting my two quite basic track powered circuits, that use starter kit control units, to remote wireless control ( both track power and battery power )
I am going to a local club meet this weekend, so will ask around then, but any other assistance or insight would be most welcome.

Thanks

Dave Hitchcock, Victoria, B.C. Canada

[Anonymous]

This really is not in response to previous replies, but I am a GARDEN RAILWAY BEGINNER and would very much appreciate any advice regarding battery / remote control operation.
I need to know how I should go about converting my two quite basic track powered circuits, that use starter kit control units, to remote wireless control ( both track power and battery power )
I am going to a local club meet this weekend, so will ask around then, but any other assistance or insight would be most welcome.

Thanks

Dave Hitchcock, Victoria, B.C. Canada

[Anonymous]

Gunzai, the surface frequencies are in the 27 and 75 bands.... Check out any of the R/C Car and boat sites for a complete listing of what these frqs are. There are FM and PCM radios available along with Railroad offerings from Aristocraft and Locolinc. Hope this helps....

[Anonymous]

Gunzai, the surface frequencies are in the 27 and 75 bands.... Check out any of the R/C Car and boat sites for a complete listing of what these frqs are. There are FM and PCM radios available along with Railroad offerings from Aristocraft and Locolinc. Hope this helps....

[Anonymous]

Does anyone have info.on using one rail for antenae for on board sound reciever.
Track powered by 20 volt DC . Read 1 yr. ago in Garden Railways Mag. that may be possible using a capacitor to filter DC.
Does anyone know if this can be done?
gill

[Anonymous]

Does anyone have info.on using one rail for antenae for on board sound reciever.
Track powered by 20 volt DC . Read 1 yr. ago in Garden Railways Mag. that may be possible using a capacitor to filter DC.
Does anyone know if this can be done?
gill

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Slick1

I hope you're not using an airplane frequency to operate your model trains...... Bad Bad Bad! Use surface frequencies only!

just wondering what are the surface frequencies please

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Slick1

I hope you're not using an airplane frequency to operate your model trains...... Bad Bad Bad! Use surface frequencies only!

just wondering what are the surface frequencies please

[Anonymous]

I hope you're not using an airplane frequency to operate your model trains...... Bad Bad Bad! Use surface frequencies only!

[Anonymous]

I hope you're not using an airplane frequency to operate your model trains...... Bad Bad Bad! Use surface frequencies only!

[Anonymous]

Thank you for the reply. I have an 18 volt ryobi drill and charger, along with a couple extra batteries, they last longer if they are used often so thought it would be a good way to keep them fresh. Doesn't seem as if it would be too hard to put the battery on a seperate car and wire it to the Loco.. Don't know a lot, just learning about the wiring and how they work but think this may work OK if I research it and work it out right.
*** Brown