Hand built switches

[kstrong]

What size rail are you using? Llagas Creek makes turnout kits in code 250, and sells point and frog castings if you want to completely build your own. I'm not sure on the templates, but you can buy one kit, use it to make a template, and just buy the castings from there on out.

If you're using code 332 rail, I don't know of anyone who sells turnout parts for building your own, so you may be stuck buying ready-made switches there.

The biggest advantage to making your own switches (beyond a significant cost savings--especially for the wide switches) is that you can customize the switches for your particular situation. Curved switches aren't a problem, neither are wyes, ladder tracks, or anything else where it would be nice to say "I want a switch here" and not have to rework the track around it. The trade-off is time. Switches aren't difficult to build, but they'll still take a few evenings worth of work per switch.

On my previous line, I hand-built all my switches. They looked good, and worked great. It also took me 5 years to get the switches built, and even then, I didn't have all my passing sidings done. My current line uses pre-built switches. It took me all of three days to get all the track--including switches--down and operating smoothly. I thought I would be a bit hamstrung by having "normal" switches instead of being used to measure and build free-flowing switches, but it wasn't an issue at all.

Later,

K

[markperr]

Is it cheaper to hand build a switch than purchasing one that is already pre-built? I'm specifically looking to build a couple of #6 switches because I plan on running large diesels. I'm proficient in the use of all types of tools and understand designs and blueprints but have never actually built one before. Also, would it be wise to purchase one to use as a template. And where does one purchase parts?

Mark