How can I make a rail nonconductive?

[FJ and G]

Thanks guys. I subsequently went R/C and removed the center rail. Problem solved.

Interesting tho to hear about epoxies deteriorating in UV. May need that bit of info for future reference.

Also, never heard of sikaflex. That may also come in handy for certain applications!

[Anonymous]

What about some kind of sealer. I'm thinking of something like sikaflex. It goes on like sealer and smoothed out with turpintine on your finger. Let it set for a couple of hours and it goes like rubber. It is used in the automotive industry alot and must stand up to uv rays. Being a glue as well, it should stick to the rails and expand in the heat and contract in the cool (very flexible). You should be able to purchase it at a hardware store. More information at www.sikaindustry.com.

[thor]

Dave, most epoxies deteriorate rapidly in sunlight, UV destroys the chemical. I epoxied a doghouse and within 6 months it had turned to a brown powder. I use epoxy a lot in boatbuilding and it must be protected from UV by paint though some of the paste epoxies seem to hold up better because of the fillers used.

[FJ and G]

Thanks Tom, got initial wrong.

[ttrigg]

Don't know what "JD Weld" is, but have used "JB Weld". Used it one time to "glue" together an alternator mount for the car. That was three years ago, and still holding.

[FJ and G]

I went for the JD Weld method and it works except for one small section that sent out a huge blue spark, turning the rail black. I'll go over that. Need to sand down the JD Weld. Don't know how well it'll hold up outside tho. They say JD Weld has repaired cracked engine blocks. Probably hype.

If that don't work, will go thru each suggestion here. Nothin like the forum for ideas!!!!

[Kiwi Down Under]

Although I make my own I had a small bit of track across the points that kept shorting out. tried the tape but that did not last long. Eventially filed the rail down with a hand file, (about 2mm) for about 1cm. then glued some plastic to the rail with wallboard adhesive ( ice cream container lid + zero nails ) then filed down to match rail each side and rail either side. That was 3 years ago and it works perfectly.

Tony

Tony.

[monkeyman2]

Clear duct tape?
if not super glue maybe, it dries clear....

[FJ and G]

T-J,

My point/closure rail are one rail (no pivot as it bends), so that wouldn't work (it could be done but would take a lot of work). Thanks, tho

Ray,

Not sure how clear packing tape would hold up outside (lose its stickiness), but electrical tape in a different color would be good.

I thought last night about coating the rail with JD Weld.

Thanks, all.

[Ray Dunakin]

You can get electrical tape in other colors besides black. Or you could use clear packing tape.

[tangerine-jack]

Why not make a replacement section of rail out of plastic? It should be easy enough to do for the short piece you need. You won't ever have to worry about a short there again.

[FJ and G]

As some of you know, I'm building a 3-rail O RR outside. I need a portion of the point/closure rail to be nonconductive so that the roller does not short circuilt.

I used with success clear fingernail polish, but that wore off outside in the elements. I'm thinking of coating the rails with epoxy or resin?

I would (if I could) isolate the points/closure and get power from the stocks only; however, I soldered the points to a brass throwrod so that won't work.

Electrical tape is an ugly black; looking for something clear. As a last resort, I may just paint some zinc (which is gray) on it but clear would still be preferrable.

Much thanks