Cheap Bachman (starter set) power pack powers 100' of track!!!!

[Anonymous]

I just hooked it up to see what would happen,the big hauler and 2 cars made it all the way around without a hitch,no slowdowns nothing.

Mind you I want to buy a decent transformer but if this little turd of a power pack can put that much juice then remind me why I need to spend over $100 on anything else.

I guess I will probably pick up the mrc6200 .....its $100 and hopefully as I get further into the hobby I will actually need it.

[Big_Boy_4005]

It's not the amount of track that matters for the size of the power supply, it's the number of trains. The number of feeders and good rail joints is far more important when it comes to powering a lot of track. Voltage drop is the enemy.

[kstrong]

So long as you're running one motor with a very light current draw, the starter set supplies are sufficient. But they are limited in terms of total power. Most are on the order of 20 "volt/amps" or more familiarly, "watts." On the straight and level with no train behind it, a typical large scale locomotive draws between 1/2 to 1 amp. A 20 volt/amp power supply means it can supply 20 volts when the load is drawing one amp. When that load increases to 2 amps, the voltage available drops to 10 volts. Increase that load to 3 amps, and the voltage drops to just under 7 volts. So, if you've got a train running up a slight grade pulling a string of cars, it's going to draw more current (amps), so the voltage will drop, and the train will slow down. If you try to run two trains with that power supply, you're immediately doubling the current draw, and really cutting your available voltage down.

As a rule, it's not good for the power supply to be constantly outputting at its maximum power rating. It gets hot and the circuit breaker or fuse will blow.

That's why most folks will opt for a more powerfull power supply, something that deliveres at least 50 volt/amps, and more is always better. The high-end ones can deliver upwards of 300 to 400.

Think of it in terms of cutting a 2 x 4 with a hack saw vs. a power saw. Both will get the job done, but one will be very hot and tired when it's done, the other will be ready to tackle the next one.

Later,

K

[ttrigg]

K:

That my friend is probably the best explanation of power supply performance I've ever read. And I second your thoughts.

[Capt Bob Johnson]

A good explination, and the man didn't even put passenger cars with lights in them on the track yet; they suck up more power. Gonna have electric remote control switches? More power!

Go for quality once instead of junk 6 times, same $$$$, less problems!

[Anonymous]

Hi - I am completely new to the train scene (I do understand the power discussion). I am looking to get a set for my son's 6th birthday, but I am concerned that the starter sets will be quickly underpowered as he loads up an ore cart with gravel or something...
Is it worth getting a starter set and then upgrading sometime sooner or later, or putting together a component kit from the very beginning?
I'm trying to keep the initial cost in the $300-350 range if possible. (And I thing the more sound, the more enjoyment he will get from it).

Suggestions?

Thanks,
Matt

[Capt Bob Johnson]

At that age I'd go for a starter set with a bit of extra track. If he really likes it and you folks find yourselves getting really into it then go for the upgrades!

Yes, Ive been known to throw $$$$$ at my trains, but I knew I enjoyed them and only after I found out that the new wife liked them too! (She's a director of our club now)

The important thing is to get something running, then if you like it and want to invest in it you go for the gold!

[StarLynx]

So long as you're running one motor with a very light current draw, the starter set supplies are sufficient. But they are limited in terms of total power. Most are on the order of 20 "volt/amps" or more familiarly, "watts." On the straight and level with no train behind it, a typical large scale locomotive draws between 1/2 to 1 amp. A 20 volt/amp power supply means it can supply 20 volts when the load is drawing one amp. When that load increases to 2 amps, the voltage available drops to 10 volts. Increase that load to 3 amps, and the voltage drops to just under 7 volts. So, if you've got a train running up a slight grade pulling a string of cars, it's going to draw more current (amps), so the voltage will drop, and the train will slow down. If you try to run two trains with that power supply, you're immediately doubling the current draw, and really cutting your available voltage down.

As a rule, it's not good for the power supply to be constantly outputting at its maximum power rating. It gets hot and the circuit breaker or fuse will blow.

That's why most folks will opt for a more powerfull power supply, something that deliveres at least 50 volt/amps, and more is always better. The high-end ones can deliver upwards of 300 to 400.

Think of it in terms of cutting a 2 x 4 with a hack saw vs. a power saw. Both will get the job done, but one will be very hot and tired when it's done, the other will be ready to tackle the next one.

Thanks for the great info about power packs, it was very informative.  I am in the process of building a 2' x 6' layout, it's my third layout but I am having some issues with locomotive performance.

Learning from my mistakes from the previous two layouts I have four separate power supplies, one for switches, another for lights and misc., another one for my main line which is a large oval, and the last one for my inner oval.  All the packs are low end ones, in fact two are the cheap Bachmann starter ones mentioned in the original post.

I've installed power taps every 2.5' of track so as to avoid dead spots (so I think)...  But when I try and run one of my loco's they seem to run fine for a bit then die out with no warning.  I've found that when I run them at a higher speed setting they run better, but majority of my fleet is steam powered or self propelled commuter train units (no lights other than Cab lights), and they don't look very realistic running at a high speed. 

My first question is, are my cheapo power supplies that run my two lines, not up to the challenge of running my loco's slowly?  If this is the case recommendations for a reasonably priced power supply? I've seen the dual units but not sure about them, keep in mind I would like to run two trains (one per oval).

Secondly any ideas as to why they (loco's) just stop running when they were running great guns (occurs at both high and low voltage settings more so at the low voltage)?

I have cleaned the wheels and inners of the locomotives and removed any contaminants from them, and then very carefully lubed them making sure not to get anything on or near the commutator or any other electrical components.  As far as I can tell they should run like Swiss watches, but don't :-(

I've cleaned my truck thoroughly using various methods, such as bright boys, isopropyl alcohol, and p600 wet sand.  However no matter what I do they either stall, or will not run at low speeds.

Any advice or help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks for you help,

 

Best Regards

 

 

                Rob

 

P.S. I am not Running DCC, and I am not looking to do so.

[Great Western]

Greetings

           I totally agree with Tom (ttrig).  Kevins description was erudite and lacking in "gobbledegook".  Even I was able to follow it; for for those of us with a very basic understanding of what volts and amps actually are, and do, it was rewarding.