What couplers do you like?

[tangerine-jack]

Done. Now let's see what they can do.

[Tom The Brat]

The duct tape goes under the loco to keep the drivers from falling out when you pick it up.

[Capt Bob Johnson]

That's the universal coupler??? I thought it was the rubber band! Guy in our club uses them on a couple of cars that have broken couplers and talk about the old cushion ride boxcars --- those things string out real nice for a gentle start! Stops can be a bit abrupt, but nice starts!

[tangerine-jack]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Torby

Of course, there's always the universal G gauge coupler:

Nice, but you forgot the duct tape.

[Tom The Brat]

Of course, there's always the universal G gauge coupler:

[kimbrit]

The majority of my rolling stock is Bachmann so I use their knuckles, some of the older ones spring open but as I run round and round I can fix them with a piece of insulation tape. The new bachmann couplers (black & brown) are very good and I have had no problems with them at all. They also mate up with just about everything, Aristo needs a bit of filing but I only have the plow. I have 2 USA NW2 that I link together with KD but to be honest when the trains are running I don't look at the couplers.
Cheers,
Kim

[Greg Elmassian]

For people that do little switching / run unit trains, how the uncoupling works is of little import.

I like switching, changing locos, making up trains, dropping off cars, so I use the Kadees and the delayed uncoupling feature.

I have no problems, but a few tips:

1. use the kadee coupler height gauge religiously. Get the couplers spot on in terms of height, and keep them level.
2. truck mounted couplers can rise and sag if the coupler "tang" moves up and down a lot.. check it out, sometimes bolsters are loose, the truck itself is skewed, etc. Pull and push 2 cars together to see if this happens, and find a way to correct it.
3. If your curves are broad enough, switch to body mounts, really helps eliminate the couplers "cocking" up or down.
4. check the inside of the knuckles, sometimes they are not flat, so pulling on them cocks one coupler higher or lower.
5. make sure your uncoupler magnets are the right height below the rails. I use the magnet with the extra 2 pieces of metal on the bottom, and the 2 part magnet. I use a router to mill down the tie tops to make it exact. Before I did this, the "trip wires" would snag on the magnet, causing uncoupling.

Regards, Greg

[vsmith]

FYI

In case anyone is interested after swapping all my couplers to link-n-pin, I got two bags of bachmann couplers I need to get rid off, was going to ebay them but will offer to sell them here first if anyone's interested.

E-mail me for the details if interested.

[Anonymous]

I use Kadees on all my North American locomotives. I am slowly converting my freight stock and coaching stock to Kadees from LGB knuckle couplers. I use both body mounted and talgo mounted couplers. I find that kadees will operate with most other makes of knuckle coupler.

[Tom The Brat]

I'd side with Danny S.

If most of your equipment is from one manufacturer, change the other stuff to that coupler. I put Aristo couplers on my 2 Bachmann pieces.

[DannyS]

As the majority of my locomotives are Bachmann, I have standardised on the Bachmann Knuckle Coupler, they will retro fit all other brands of car, LGB, Aristocraft, USA Trains etc. With other brands of rolling stock a great trick is to use an electrical tie around the rear of the Bachmann coupler to center the coupler centering wire. I am very pleased with the results using Bachmann Knuckle Couplers, and they are economical to purchase in bags.

[Tom The Brat]

A lot of guys clip those just so they don't snag on anything on the track.

[tangerine-jack]

Could it be that the metal pin on the Kadees are the problem? I was going to cut them off anyway since I've long ago abandoned the magnetic function. Otherwise I like the Kadees, where are my clippers???

[vsmith]

So far, so good.

I just replaced almost all of my Bmann couplers ans so far I've had -0- failures! Yep thell stay coupled even when the loco has derailed and is heading cross country towards the bamboo forest!

I just converted to Ozark Link-and Pin couplers. They look SOOOO much better than the oversized Bachmann and are sooo much cheaper than Kadee's or LGB's.

[RhB_HJ]

Despite modelling a Swiss railway I use the #1 size Kadees. As Kevin mentions with properly laid track and proper installation they are as good as it gets for reliability. [;)] And to my eyes they look better than the LGB H&L clunkers, even on Swiss equipment where they are not very prototypical.

[Tom The Brat]

I have all Aristo couplers. Now and then you find one that has to be pushed in too far to latch. It's an easy fix if you're cheap like me[;)]

At Golding's fall operating session, he has mostly Kaydee couplers with the pins cut off. I like those a lot. I didn't have a screwdriver handy for uncoupling, so I just reached between the cars. Since they push up and down quite a ways, it was very easy to uncouple them. Wondering about the #1 size coupler just for apperance 'cause the Aristo coupler is so big.

[cacole]

I put body-mounted Kadees on everything and I have had no unintentional uncoupling problems. I cut off that stupid looking "air hose" and use a pick for uncoupling.

[rcl1930]

(tangerine-jack) commented that he was considering conversion to all Bachmanns for more reliability.

I have mostly Bachmann or Aristo couplers. Aristo seems to be very reliable with itself, but not well with Bachmann. Most brands work fairly well with themselves, so converting to one type generally is a good idea.

Things to consider before converting to Bachmann:


1 See how often they uncouple from themselves. This can happen with any number of cars and seems to be when there is slack in the couplers such as jerking operation on fairly level track and with downhill running.

It seems that the PLASTIC uncoupler pin tends to randomly vibrate up causing couplers to open. Somewhere there is a post on adding a custom metal spring wire on the coupler knuckle to pu***he pin down to fix this.

Some of the new Bachmann couplers have a metal uncoupling pin with more weight that might overcome this, but I have no experience with them to see if it works.


2 Also, the Bachmann centering plastic (wire like) spring extension on the back of the coupler requires adding something to catch the centering wire. Look at how Bachmann trucks have this feature built in, but others do not. I have done this a few times, but the fix type/work really depends on the specific installation. Also, some of the "engineering" plastics used for strength in the couplers do not allow you to use plastic solvents to bond the parts. ACC may work, but it is NOT forgiving to sudden movements...


The false uncouplings have me to the point that I am trying out truck and body mounted Kadees to see if they will fix this. This is much more expensive than going over to Bachmann or Aristo. If you decide to go to Bachmann, a good supply source would be from people who have converted over to Kadees. Ask why they got away from the various couplers. I would hate to see you go the expense and work of converting, only to find that its not as reliable as you would like, resulting in you making another costly conversion.

Rich in NJ

=======
Originally posted by tangerine-jack .... (edited) .....
"I also use a few Bachmann couplers, and the more I see them used on other people's RRs the more I like them for the reliability and they are much more realistic than Kadees or LGB hook and loop. Aristo couplers are very similar to B'manns and work just as well, but hang to low to the track for my taste. Fewer instances of unauthorized separation, but still too many for me. ...

I think I will convert all to B'mann before long, but it depends if I can convince the "boss" to fund the transition."

[kstrong]

I've been using Kadee couplers for around 20 years outdoors, and have had ZERO--yes, ZERO--failures with them. With even track, they simply don't come apart. Obstructions in the track, failures in the glue holding the couplers to the car (hint: use screws instead), and wind gusts will uncouple the cars, but the couplers themselves are as reliable as it gets.

Like Marty, I cut the metal trip pin off. Coupling is as easy as pushing the two cars together, and can be done at very realistic slow speeds. A flathead screwdriver inserted and twisted between the knuckles will quickly open couplers, or you can resort to the ultra-high-tech method of lifting one end of the car up.

I've used other brands (Bachmann, USA, Aristo), and none come anywhere near as close in terms of reliability and ease of use and mounting.

Later,

K

[Puckdropper]

QUOTE:
I don't think any coupler is 100% reliable.

They're not... Even the ones the prototype uses. You occasionally hear a good story about "changing a knuckle" on the Trains forum.

Just out of curiousity, are there shelf couplers made for garden trains? They'd be the ones used on tankers.

[Marty Cozad]

On Kadee's I cut the dang wire off, weather them and no uncoupling. I don't think any coupler is 100% reliable. It only takes once to brake the %.
The USAT are nice but as said, hard to couple. The tanker ones really do hold the cars together in a derailment, I ,,,KNOW!!!

[tangerine-jack]

Well, I think a lot of things I can't print here, but on the subject of coupler's I'm moving into the "undecided" category. I was using Kadees, mostly because of brand recognition and they are what I used in HO, but there are several drawbacks. One is the unrealistic metal pin "air hose" hanging down in exactly the way real ones don't, and the other is the magnetic ramps dont' work to my satisfaction outdoors. I've also experienced a scant few random uncouplings with Kadees, most people would probably laud the small percentile of misfire, but I can only accept 100% reliability as a personal standard.

I also use a few Bachmann couplers, and the more I see them used on other people's RRs the more I like them for the reliability and they are much more realistic than Kadees or LGB hook and loop. Aritso couplers are very similar to B'manns and work just as well, but hang to low to the track for my taste. Fewer instances of unauthorized separation, but still too many for me.

LGB style (USAT also) are 100% reliable, but too d#&$ed hard to uncouple. Too much stress for me when I'm trying to relax.

I think I will convert all to B'mann before long, but it depends if I can convince the "boss" to fund the transition.

[gvdobler]

I watched a run yesterday and observed uncommanded uncoupling with several different types of couplers. None with LGB's standard hook type.

What do you think?