handlayed code 148 turnout (photos)

[FJ and G]

Over the weekend, I handlayed my first code 148 turnout for my outdoor train shed (shed is last photo). The rails are nickel-silver from Right O way and ties are cedar, stained with honey-color Thompson water seal, temporarily glued to Hardiboard with tile adhesive (if they remain glued outside, that's fine and if the adhesive dissolved over time, that too is fine). Ties are a bit thicker and wider to facilitate spiking and to “bite” into the ballast better. The ties won't look so tall once ballasted.

Spike used are quarter-inch staples, cut to shape.

Since this will be toy train track, there will be a 3rd rail emplaced at some point.

Inside the train shed, btw, is Lionel tubular track with a zinc coating.

I left it out in the rain for a month and detected no noticeable rust (although it might rust from inside out in the tubes; but also sprayed the underside). There's approx. 36 feet of tubular, zinc-coated rail inside the shed with leads running out starting in code 148 & shimmed up. I used a multimeter, and found the zinc to have zero conductivity, surprisingly. However, since only rolling stock is inside the shed and not locomotives, no power to rails is necessary. Below is photo of zinc coating and track testing measure, which BB the beagle is investigating:



Below photo shows ties glued to hardiboard. I was unsure where I wanted the headblock ties so I added a couple extra for good measure to later cut 2 off. This photo represents the 3 lead tracks from the train shed.



layed the outside stock rail and shaved the bottom rail where the points will meet. Every tie needs to be spiked in outdoor operations; unlike indoors!



below shows the next construction view; step 2 being the other stock rail and then the rails leading to the frog and lastly the point/closure rails. Then, cut off the unwanted headblocks.

This is my first handlayed curved turnout. It's a real joy working, as I was able to go with a one-piece point/closure rail, as the rail is small and thin enough to bend without pivoting, as most O and G scale track pivots. The frog is the trickiest part; to ensure the flangeway works in both directions; requiring some spiking and unspiking and testing with rolling stock. I didn't fill the frog, as the dimensions were very exact, allowing free wheel movement.



Below, you can see I altered the original drawing somewhat. I used a compass to measure the track gauge.



Below are components fabbed for switch stand using brass plumbing pipe and stock brass parts. The plumbing pipe was hammered flat and cut with tinsnips, then using the nibbler a channel was cut; then sweated the pieces together with propane torch and resin solder.

The trickiest part is the throw rod, which needs to rotate. I fashioned a rotation using brass rod, soldered to brass nuts. I then cut a portion of a bolt that attaches to the nuts and allows the throw rod to rotate when the switch stand lever is thrown. I soldered the lever to the throw rod as well. Nothing fancy but it works. The assembly is affixed to the headblock ties with brass nails (drilled holes for nails).



below, soldered points to hammered-portion of brass rod.



below, work progressing. Ties will be trimmed once final track is emplaced. Whilst turnouts are mounted on hardiboard, remainder of trackage will float in ballast, secured with Quickrete bonding adhesive; testing and proven by a fellow toy train garden enthusiast in Nevada.





trainshed awaits the 3-track lead