Outdoor "operational" train shed discussion

[FJ and G]

Ian,

I was thinking about leaving my MTH DCS unit (they make these for G scale as well) outside in the shed, but now that you mention your weather-related problem, I may just bring it inside and only hook it up when I'm running trains. However, the heavier transformer I'll likely leave inside the shed.

I went outside this morning (20 deg weather) and there was a pretty cool frost on the shed roof. Inside was nice and dry and cozy for the trains despite a week of wet weather, some light snow, a couple of very hot days, and now frost. So in 1 week's time it cycled thru all seasons.

I'm building 3 or 4 turnouts this weekend which lead to the shed. It may take some time since they're hand-layed as are my switch stands.

I'll post some progress pictures as it comes along.

I'm mounting the turnout ties on hardiboard with tile adhesive. It's nice and rubbery and I'm not too concerned if the adhesive doesn't hold up to the rains and frosts, as it just keeps the ties emplaced for now until I can get the rails curved and spiked and ground at the points.

[Anonymous]

This is a very interesting subject and I have had some not very good results and a lot of how you approach it would be to do with where you live.

I live in the tropics and the weather here in general is very good but every now and then, you can come to grief. I have had my ICE train and my Stainz taken out, stabled in a tunnel overnight (two different times, two different tunnles, but it was the MTS decoder that went both times) during the monsoons and i wont take the chance any more.

So ithink if you can look at it under normal conditions and extreme conditions; as two different scenarios might give you two different sets of parametres to consider.


Rgds Ian

[FJ and G]

Oh, just thought of something.

As an experiment, I left a toy train truck out in the rain for a couple of weeks.

Here's the results.



The left side was sprayed w/WD-40 and the right side was left as is.

See the effects of the rust on the wheel and axle. Looks pretty cool. They still operate but the wheels don't spin as fast.

I may leave some rusty and some not rusty.

I notice that many people build trestles and use nails that rust. I don't know how long it would take to rust these all the way thru.

Eventually, I'm going to replace them with different trucks anyway and Kadee couplers.

Do kadees rust I wonder?

[FJ and G]

VS

The shed is for the rolling stock. I'll be taking the locomotives indoors.

I'm of 2 opinions and I may test each.

1. I notice that if you spray the axle/wheels with WD-40, then wipe it down, you will pretty much solve the rust problem.

2. Let the rust grow naturally like the real railroads do. It may take a number of years before the wheels fall apart? I'll wait and see.

There's actually a 3rd option which is to bring all trains indoors and use the shed as a trackside industry/hidden staging platform; if all else fails.

When there's a will, there's a way.

Glad you like.

[vsmith]

WOW[:0]

Now thats cool! [:D]

But arent you concerned though about the effects of humidity on Lionel equipment? that stuffs not the greatest in humid conditions if my memories of leaving Lionel stuff out in the garage only to find rust on it.[;)]

[FJ and G]

Thanks, Bob.

It is 1:48

[Capt Bob Johnson]

Looks good to me, How much in 1:29?

[FJ and G]

Purpose: 1. To provide an industrial warehouse for the railroad; and 2., to house toy trains outside for a planned garden railroad (my shipment of code 148 n/s rail arrived so I can start laying tracks now on cedar ties, which I custom-cut myself).

Specs:

Approx. weight of shed: 100 pounds; filled with trains, transformers and DCS (housed in the upper office portion: 150 pounds.

About 11.5 feet long

Long roof comes off in one piece; upper office comes out as well.

Structure made of cedar with waterproof wood glue and silicone calking.

Windows are constructed with a variety of parts including a telephone keypad and parts to a computer.

One of the doors was made from brass and two doors were made from boxcar doors.

Roof vents are constructed with plumbing pipe and with Port wine caps.

"Mort Industries" sign was made from a piece of ductwork with Lowe's mailbox letters (vinyl). They were too shiny so I sprayed them down with auto primer.

Obviously this is a work in progress as tracks are missing. I must credit Richard Smith for inspiring me w/his train shed.

Below is the door, which is held in place at the bottom w/2 MTH RealTrack center rails and upper part with homemade brass latch.





Below are 8 side delivery doors, with rails from MTH Realtrax spiked with staples. Lights are operational and consist of copper plumbing parts. Electrical outlets between each delivery door were made from Lionel 027 track insulation pieces painted silverish color.



Below are multiple aerial views, taken from a small airplane. : The fan on the back is from a computer.













It was pouring down rain last night so I only managed to get this one blurry night shot. Some other lights are also on but cannot be seen in this picture. I ran 2 circuits, one in parallel, attached to the AC portion of an MRC HO X-former and the other is in series on the DC portion. I cut up Christmas lights to do it.

[Capt Bob Johnson]

Lots of people get a garden shed. Depending on altitude of layout you lay track on floor or shelf and route it thru hole in wall to layout. Can then use opposite side of interior of shed for workbench while wall over track has storage shelves.

When I had house built, I had garage laid out for garden tractor. Door in back was offset from one in front, and garage was 34 feet front to rear; have since built a barn for the tractors, so have taken over old tractor space for trains. Just got a bunch of those wire shelving units mounted on big casters to store trains on, and roll them out to layout when I want those cars.

[Anonymous]

I have a top opening rabbit hutch 48"x22"x18" high, boarded over the front netting, cut two tunnel entrances into one end and run two tracks into the hutch. My rolling stock lives happily in the hutch and I can use the tracks for real time shunting work

[Anonymous]

Keep in mind the link Kevin gave you to Richard Smith's Train storage in way above ground with drainage and air flow. Closing off a tunnel might get moisture or sweating inside especially if its on the ground roadbed. You could always hang charcoal briquits in nylons to absorb moisture though depending on the weather they might need to be changed frequently.

[FJ and G]

Tom,

Very useful link I bookmarked. Giving me plenty to think about. Hard to sleep at night w/so much info in the brain.

My concern will be humidity as I'm using Lionel style trains so I'll be needing some extra padding in the train shed perhaps.

I had no idea these modelers could be so resourceful. Very innovative problem solving solutions here.

[ttrigg]

Depending on the length of your tunnel, you could make plugs for the end and presto, instant train storage. I got this link from Larry back in July. http://users.stratuswave.net/~wd8jik/door/door.htm for working "train bay doors". Put them at the ends of most anything, wildlife control and train storage.

[FJ and G]

exactly what I had in mind but way better.

Thanks!

[kstrong]

Yes, your 3rd option is certainly a viable solution, and has been done by a fair number of people. Essentially, they build a very large plywood box with a hinged roof and end doors through which the trains can run.

Here's an extremely well done version of that:
http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=32061

Most I've seen aren't quite that elegantly constructed, but the principle is the same.

Later,

K

[FJ and G]

So far as I know there are 2 ways to store the trains when not in use (other than letting them sit on the tracks and become home to animals).

1. Carry them inside the house or inside a garden shed

2. Route the track thru the house walls

Is there a 3rd option?

Is it possible to build a weatherproof train house? Perhaps a very long warehouse looking building that the train can be parked in with access roof hatches in case you need to get inside for some reason and padded walls.

The structure itself would be pretty cool.

I'd be interested in hearing about your ideas, as the thought of punching holes in the wall of the house isn't what I want to do (I've already punched holes for ventilation ductwork when I finished the basement). Also carrying the trains inside is OK but a bit inconvenient.