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WHICH TRACK WOULD YOU USE?

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WHICH TRACK WOULD YOU USE?
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 9, 2005 12:14 PM
I DON'T KNOW WHAT TRACK TO USE OUTSIDE?
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Posted by Rastun on Sunday, October 9, 2005 12:25 PM
Of your choices any of them would be fine EXCEPT the Bachmann track. It will rust into nothing in a very short time outside. Other than that you need to decide what you want to model, what kind of look you want the track to have,what power options you wi***o use and most importantly how much you want to pay for track that is very similar to each other. With that said personally I like the Aristocraft for my line and they have a nice sale on track in January.

Regards,
Jack
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Posted by Curmudgeon on Sunday, October 9, 2005 1:14 PM
I would think long and hard before I chose 332.
It is too big for any scale.
I use 250 on mains, 215 on branches and spurs.
Had I known about 215 12+ years ago, I'd have use it for all of the line.
Plus, I use aluminum, which in the shorter codes follows earth contours like 332 never will.
TOC
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 9, 2005 2:21 PM
What did I use outdoors? LGB brass, back when I lived in Hawaii.

What will I use outdoors next time? Stainless steel

What do I currently use indoors? Marklin nickel silver (for my Marklin MAXI trains). Don't recall the code, but its 250 or smaller, for sure. I do like seeing those large trains operating on smaller, more fragile looking rails.
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 9, 2005 2:33 PM
I been useing aristo usa brass for five years now , stainless steel is more expensive.
so stay with what i have. ben
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Posted by powlee on Sunday, October 9, 2005 2:49 PM
I have a lot of curves in my garden so LGB flexible 5ft lengths are the best. I use Aristo brass for straight lengths as it works out cheaper in the UK and screw joints save a lot of time.. Only problem is Aristo brass takes more time tarnishing, stays bright too long.

Ian P

Ian P - If a man speaks in a desert where no woman can hear, Is he still wrong?

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Posted by BudSteinhoff on Sunday, October 9, 2005 2:58 PM
All Aristo track and mostly LGB switches.
Reasonably priced ,widely available and looks fine to me.
Bud
Bud
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Posted by Curmudgeon on Sunday, October 9, 2005 3:09 PM
To give you an idea on size:

.332 in 1:29 = 9.62" high rail.
Now, for your era, go find rail that tall.
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Posted by Train 284 on Sunday, October 9, 2005 8:42 PM
Aristo-Craft American. Just the same as LGB, but at half the price! Best stuff ever!

Never use Bachmann track outside!
Matt Cool Espee Forever! Modeling the Modoc Northern Railroad in HO scale Brakeman/Conductor/Fireman on the Yreka Western Railroad Member of Rouge Valley Model RR Club
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Posted by Train 284 on Sunday, October 9, 2005 8:44 PM
Aristo-Craft American. Just the same as LGB, but at half the price! Best stuff ever!

Never use Bachmann track outside!
Matt Cool Espee Forever! Modeling the Modoc Northern Railroad in HO scale Brakeman/Conductor/Fireman on the Yreka Western Railroad Member of Rouge Valley Model RR Club
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 9, 2005 9:08 PM
If I had to use any regularly available track I would use Aristo 332 bt I would look into the joins more, I'm not satisfied with what i have in that direction.

But I don't use these tracks i use our club track which is available here in australia, I bend my own track and cut it to any size i require and this is by for the best for me. I would only use LGB points (switches) as mine are all R3 and electric and the LGB action is outstanding compared to others I have seen.

Rgds Ian SH
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Posted by kstrong on Monday, October 10, 2005 12:33 AM
I'm using the AMS code 250 flex track with Sunset Valley switches on mine, and have thusfar been quite pleased with it. (It's been in the ground not quite two months yet...) But, the track you ultimately choose should be tailored to your specifc needs, and how much work you're willing to put into laying it.

The code 332 sectional track, be it brass or stainless steel, has a lot of advantages in that you don't need to buy railbenders, everything fits together without cutting and fitting (except in places like passing sidings and other specialized track features), and it's certainly robust enough to withstand the test of time. With proper electrical conductivity between the joints, you won't have any trouble with running track power, either. On the down side, the sectional track limits you to just those sections, so your choice of curve radii is limited, and you may feel a bit constrained when trying to move around obsticles that would get in the way, such as bushes, trees, and other things that cannot be moved.

Using flex track gives you the infinite ability to tailor your track plan to your exact yard conditions. It's not without its own set of requirements, but they're not difficult to work through either. A railbender is definitely your best friend, though, unless you're securing the track to a solid sub-roadbed.

If you would, give us some more information as to what you're looking to do, and we may be able to better steer you in a better direction.

Later,

K
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Posted by CandCRR on Monday, October 10, 2005 6:59 AM
03jtud,

I have used Aristo brass but for the next section I am adding I am planning on using Stainless steel. There have been several discussions about track on this and other forums that I have found most useful. You should be able to find a lot of information using the search function.

Jaime
Thank you, Jaime
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 10, 2005 1:52 PM
AristoCraft aluminum code 332 track with AristoCraft stainless steel switches for me. Since I have live steam and battery powered engines no problems. Also my layout is tabletop which goes all around the back yard and much easier on the knees....
Cheers,
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 10, 2005 7:57 PM
Eventually it will be AMS code 250 outside and Llagas 250 2 15 on the inside yard layout. the two will connect. I don't trust my family around the aluminum track outdoors.
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Posted by piercedan on Tuesday, October 11, 2005 5:27 AM
Any brass 332 is ok for me.

I mainly buy items on sale.

Since the best switch for the price is LGB R3, it is brass 332 only.
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Posted by Capt Bob Johnson on Tuesday, October 11, 2005 9:47 AM
Aristo stainless for me. Unless you have something far superior I don;t even want to talk about relative merits!
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Posted by GP-9_Man11786 on Tuesday, October 11, 2005 10:04 AM
I use whichever solid brass track is the cheapest. I'm aware that this seems a lot like the way the MTA would build a garden railway but I'm on a tight budget.

Modeling the Pennsylvania Railroad in N Scale.

www.prr-nscale.blogspot.com 

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Posted by Capt Bob Johnson on Tuesday, October 11, 2005 2:45 PM
GP-9 Man,
And you're probably way ahead of most of us. The object is to have fun; it does not really make any difference how many $$$$ you put into it, it's the final result and how much fun you have doing it! You certainly should not be discouraged because you are limited to budget, it's a matter of value recieved.
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Posted by vsmith on Tuesday, October 11, 2005 2:54 PM
Aristo/USA straights and curves, LGB switches, they are the most reliable and trouble free.

   Have fun with your trains

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Posted by GP-9_Man11786 on Tuesday, October 11, 2005 3:21 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Capt Bob Johnson

GP-9 Man,
And you're probably way ahead of most of us. The object is to have fun; it does not really make any difference how many $$$$ you put into it, it's the final result and how much fun you have doing it! You certainly should not be discouraged because you are limited to budget, it's a matter of value recieved.


In its own way a limited budget can be a good thing. It has forced me to be resourcefull and creative. Bt there are time when it's better to spend the extra money. LGB switches are case and point.

Modeling the Pennsylvania Railroad in N Scale.

www.prr-nscale.blogspot.com 

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 11, 2005 6:40 PM
i have never understood why people would use anything else but brass, I know stailess has its strengths in corrosive atmospheres but if it is so bad how can you live in it?

Rgds Ian
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Posted by Dick Friedman on Wednesday, October 12, 2005 12:38 AM
I use llagas Creek code 250 aluminum track and number 4 and 6 switches. I use Hillman clamps to hold them together and carry voltage. It's relatively inexpensive as these things go, and works fine. The clamps get dirty from time to time, but then I can sit in the dirt and play -- just like when I was 5.
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Posted by TheJoat on Wednesday, October 12, 2005 8:39 AM
AMS code 250. Very readily available. Now, if they would just come out with some switches. Let's see...my Llagas creek ones have only been on order since August...I still don't even know if I'll like them....
Bruce
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Posted by markn on Friday, October 14, 2005 12:34 PM
Just curious, what is "other" that the majority is using? Let's break it down-seems like alot of aluminum and different codes
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 14, 2005 2:52 PM
I like the track that my models run on.

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