Converting to battery power; need a little help

[Anonymous]

  MATE GO WITH THE RCS SYSTEMS AND SAY 12 C SIZE NICAD OR NICKEL METAL HYDRIDES IN THE TENDER ITS THE EASIEST WAY NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE RCS SYSTEMS.

[heinzm57]

Use a DPDT switch . That way you can run on track power or battery.

Heinz

[FJ and G]

http://www.trainweb.org/girr/tips/tips7/battery_rc_tips.html

(all of your questions can be answered here)

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ballhog24

Good afternoon all,

I have a Bachmann 4-6-0 steam engine that I want to convert to battery power to run on about 90 feet of LGB brass track. I've done some searches and read on principles and applications, but have yet to be able to come up with a decent materials list.

Would it be possible that someone who has experience in the conversion of battery power could post a materials list as to what is necessary? i.e.

Batteries - of course...but whats the best type to use?

wiring connections? Is there a kit available, or is it all home made stuff?

What type of controller would be good to use? And is there any type of control board or box that has to be installed into the engine for this?

If someone could help a "greener" in this venture, I'd sure appreciate it.

[heinzm57]

I have converted a Bachmann Big Hauler ( Nimh batteries 3300 mah ), a LGB street car with trailer ( 12 Nimh AA 2300 mah) , a scratch build Box Cab with 2 Aristo power trucks ( 12 Nicad C 1500mah). I have used Aristo receivers. They work quite well when they do work. I have bought 5 recievers. Even though I had a fast act fuse I fried one receiver. I checked all the wirering....everything was corect. Another receiver refuses to change the head and tail lights with the direction ...they both work the same time. I might be able to fix that problem with diodes. Also their auxiliary accessory board, which is suposed to operate the lights and smoke unit, is useless. I bought 2 of those....another complete loss.
This is where I get quite annoyed !!!!!!! I contacted Aristo Craft about the problems I have with some of their receivers, but i have yet to get a reply. Obviously this company is not interested in customer service.
I have been in touch with Don Sweet from Remote Control Systems. I am seriously thinking of converting future engines to that system. They have a new controler now for 3 engines without changing the cristal.
As far as Aristo goes ....it will be a severe snowstorm in July before I will buy anything from that company again.

[Anonymous]

One little matter that has ocurred to me is that a timely warning about ensuring that you have no longer any electrical connection to the track after you have carried out your conversion; In one of my brighter moments I forgot about this elementary precaution because as I don't use track power it didn't seem relevant I also don't use insulated wheels The resultingt short circuit of ten nicads while not particularly spectacular was still messy.

[TonyWalsham]

I do know of battery conversions that utilise the existing wiring.
It does complicate the wiring quite a bit.
I prefer to add the extra plug and socket cables direct to the motor because I know they can handle the heaviest loads that the loco is capable of hauling.
They are invisible under the footplate anyway.
I leave the existing Bachmann wiring in place. No need to remove it at all.

[barclaysierra]

I have the same engine (WP & Y 10 anniversary edition) and have decided to use the Airwire 900 system with a battery pack in the tender.
I haven't decided whether to use Lithium-Ion or NMH at this point, but it will probably be one or the other. I think NiCad is on its way out and gel cells are too big and heavy, although they do have their advantages.

My question is, are the wires that currently connect the tender to the engine large enough to carry the battery voltage to the motor. I'm not sure if they currently carry track power or just enough juice for the sound and light.

I'll completely gut the existing wiring and use the Airwire decoder....at least that is my plan. Anyone done this before?

[TonyWalsham]

Hello Michael.

Welcome to the battery R/C world.

You will likely get the same sort of answers here as you will at MLS.

To help you with a choice of what to buy it would be helpful if you could offer some more information.
such as:
1. Why are you going battery power? As in, Is it just to avoid all track wiring and maintenance, or is it to take advantage of the multi train opereation on one track battery R/C can offer?

2. Do you have any preference to what sort of R/C to use?
You have two choices.
(a) A regular 2 stick R/C the R/C car people use. or:
(b) A proprietary R/C system such I make (RCS) or TE ot Locolinc or CVP.
The former can be a lot less expensive and give terrrific range.

3. Will you be fitting a sound system such as Sierra or Phoenix. If not not the installation is much less complicated and less expensive R/C equipment can be used. If you are you may need extra components to interface Sierra or be limited to a DCC sound card if using CVP R/C.

4. Do you have a preference for the type of batteries. Again you have a number of choices.
(a). Lead acid Gel Cells. These are cheap but big and cumbersome.
(b). Nickel Cadmium (NiCd). Quite an old technology now but still give good value for money. They typically give over 1000 recharges if looked after.
(c). Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMh). Fairly new technology. Greater energy density than NiCd but have only half the recharge cycles of NiCd. They do require careful charging. Too much charge can destroy them.
(d). Lithium Ion and Lithium Ion Polymer. (Li-Ion and Li-Pol).
New technologies used extensively in Cell phone, Lap Top 'puters and digital cameras. Quite new for LS Train applications but some users are reporting spectaular results. Crest have offered Li-Ion packs with mixed results.
Personally I prefer NiCd. Others also have their favourite technology.

5. Are you going to have many locos? If not then highly complicated R/C systems may be overkill. Perhaps a low cost entry level system will suffice.

6. How do you intend to operate? Will you have many operators? Will you be MU'ing other locos into a consist to haul long trains.

7. Are you confident in pulling a loco apart to install the R/C equipment and batteries.

RCS offers specialised installation kits containing pre-wired switches and charging jacks to permit on board charging wiothout removing the battery packs. These kits make life easy when installting the actual R/C receivers and motor drivers.
There also pdf files at the RCS website giving generic instructions on how to do tender locos. Go to the Accessories page and click on the PDF logo for the TEN-LOC kit.

Please don't hesitate to ask questions as that will be the best way of coming to an informed decision.

Good luck.

[ballhog24]

Good afternoon all,

I have a Bachmann 4-6-0 steam engine that I want to convert to battery power to run on about 90 feet of LGB brass track. I've done some searches and read on principles and applications, but have yet to be able to come up with a decent materials list.

Would it be possible that someone who has experience in the conversion of battery power could post a materials list as to what is necessary? i.e.

Batteries - of course...but whats the best type to use?

wiring connections? Is there a kit available, or is it all home made stuff?

What type of controller would be good to use? And is there any type of control board or box that has to be installed into the engine for this?

If someone could help a "greener" in this venture, I'd sure appreciate it.