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Track Securing Question

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  • Member since
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  • From: The South
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Posted by highrailjon on Thursday, August 18, 2005 6:45 AM
John, I had'nt thought of that. That does sound like a great idea!![:D]

QUOTE: Sounds like you might need to put a frog catcher on the front of that dismal to keep the tracks cleared. lol


LOL, Capt!!!!!!!![:D]
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  • From: West Australia
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Posted by John Busby on Thursday, August 18, 2005 5:19 AM
Hi highrailjon
My track is just in ballast.
If you are that concerned about it blowing away drill a few of your blocks for wall plugs
and put in a few stainles steel or galvanised screws.
You should not need that many just pick a couple of track sections and screw them
to the blocks but don't screw them down too hard so you can lift them to level the track
with the track ballasted it should stay put.
regards John
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 18, 2005 1:23 AM
Jon,
I can sympathise on the critters. They get so bad around my place that I have to carry bricks in my pockets to keep the little b#$%&^d's from carrying me off. I seem to do more running at night. It's just too hot in the daytime. In the daytime heat the power supply shuts down on me after about two hours running. Since my track isn't real level just laying on the grass, I spend alot of time with a flashlight between my teeth trying to get the trains back on the track.
Have to say it's really cool watching the lighted trains going around the track and the sparks coming off the wheels of the locos!
Sounds like you might need to put a frog catcher on the front of that dismal to keep the tracks cleared. lol
Sounds too like you got the diesase bad. And you said you were only going to do a small loop. Yeah,,,right. I can see it now. It starts with a small loop and then the whole back yard is covered with track and at least a half a dozen trains running around! I know how it is. I got it too. That's what I said too.....at first. lol
  • Member since
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  • From: The South
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Posted by highrailjon on Wednesday, August 17, 2005 3:16 PM
smcgill, Thanks for the welcome and the tips!! I had thought about making the "wall" a little taller as well, but I chose not to for a couple of reasons. The retaining bricks are kinda costly, let alone the thought of wheeling in a dump truck load of dirt!![:(] But the main reason is that I would like to incorporate some type of "industrial area" into the garden for my 3 year old son to play with his trucks and I really did'nt want him to crawl over a wall and on the track!!!![:0]

Last night was a rough one, fellas!!! There I was in the dark on my hands and knees working by flashlight screwing those dXXX screws into the joiners of the track being bitten alive by flying critters and toads hopping all over me!!!
  • Member since
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  • From: S.Easton , Mass.
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Posted by smcgill on Tuesday, August 16, 2005 10:37 AM
[#welcome]

Looking @ the great pic ! [}:)]
Have you thought of going up to three courses ? [:D]
I know more dirt and work in the beginning! [^]
It also looks like you have room for 10' curves! [:p]
The added hight will help later ( old age and anny kink or inj.) and you will be able to see more ! [}:)]
You will be able to maintain the garden with not much trouble![;)]
The layout will also look taller and you might not see the train on the other side![;)]
Good luck and keep posting picsof the progress! [:-,][:-,]


Sorry Jon I didn't answer your Question !
My own track sits in ballast . If you set your track on the inside of the blocks it might be hidden from the wind ?[swg]

Mischief

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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 14, 2005 5:51 PM
Hey Jon,
I sure wish I could join you in a brew! The Coasties would frown highly on that so I guess I'll have to pass for now. Still got 2-3 weeks before I get off this tub.
I said welding rods, what I mean't was, brazing rods. Being brass, they wouldn't rust away. They would match the track, too.
I don't really think you are going to have a problem with the track being blown away. I'm right next to the water,(100 feet away)wide open to the southeast, and have had some very high winds and no track has ever moved. Not much windage to track. The cars have been blown all over the yard, and building turned over, but no movement to the track. My track is just layed on the ground with no ballast right now.
  • Member since
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Posted by highrailjon on Sunday, August 14, 2005 3:23 PM
Wow!! Guy's!! Thank you for the tips!!!
I'm sorry, If it's alright I'll expand a bit on my backround info. I've got 4 years with the Marines, A-6 Squadron, and I'm currently an avionics tech with the DOD on Blackhawk helicopters in Mississippi. I've been with the Army National Guard for about 8 years now.

Cacole, Thank you for your service to our country and training up fella's like me to keep the good fight going!!!

Cappy Turk!!! HEY BRO!!! I had the same thought about some king of wire just like that, but I could'nt figure out what kind of wire: A welding rod WOULD do the trick and allow for track movement, Thanks, Bro[:D]

vbsltco, I know that the SD takes a minimum of 8' diameter curve, so that is what I have ordered. My picture may not look 8' because I'm just guessing with a ruler until the track makes it in. Plus I have not started on the straight sections yet!!!
WOW!! All this typing sure makes a fella thirsty!! Anyone for a brew!![:D][:D]





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Posted by markn on Sunday, August 14, 2005 1:26 PM
Jon-I am also in potential high wind area-Virginia Beach (and retired military)-being prepared is great but around here, if the winds are high enough to pick up your railroad, you have bigger things to worry about-like your roof and the trees falling on your house and railroad. The 2003 hurricane here blew down a 20" trunk diameter tree but didn't lift a shingle on a shed I had just built 15' away from the tree-surface/sail area is the critical factor--but you may have a good point-if the railroad survives and you are battery powered , you'll have something to do while you wait four days for the power to come back on like we had to...
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  • From: Rockville, Maryland
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Posted by van buren s l on Sunday, August 14, 2005 12:16 PM
Jon
Judging by the curves in your photo,you may want to think twice about an SD 70. Four axle stuff such as GPs may look better. The SDs are awfully long and remember those suckers usually travel in multiple units.
Bob
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  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
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Posted by cacole on Sunday, August 14, 2005 11:46 AM
Silicon or Latex caulking would probably suffice to fasten your track to the retaining wall blocks, and it would remain flexible enough to allow the track to move with changes in the weather. A lot of my track is elevated on trestleworks, and I used clear silicon caulking to fasten it down.


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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 13, 2005 7:31 PM
Jon,
Another idea! Get some gas welding rod. Bend a hook in one end. Shove the welding rod down thru the joint till the hook is over one of the ties. It would be easy to remove and change if you wanted to.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 13, 2005 7:27 PM
Hey Jon,
Glad to see you over here..
I was just thinking about it and came up with an idea. Attach some monofilament line to a tie where it cross's the gap in the blocks. Run it down the crack and under the block. Pass it back up thru the next crack and attach it to the tie at that crack. You might ge able to silicone the mono to the bottom of the tie so it wouldn't show. That would keep the track from going anywhere and still let it move for expansion.
Just an idea!
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Posted by cacole on Saturday, August 13, 2005 7:03 PM
I notice that your location just says "The South" and your profile indicates that you are in the military. Where in the South? If you're in an area that gets those "hurry-canes" I can certainly see your point abou needing some way to fasten the track down so it doesn't wind up in the next county.

I'm retired from the Army (26 years) and then spent another 16 years as a civilian instructor at the U.S. Army Intelligence Center at Fort Huachuca, Arizona.

I retired from the instructor job in 2002.
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Posted by highrailjon on Saturday, August 13, 2005 11:56 AM
Thanks for replying! Yes, my stones are for a retaining wall and are taller then pavers. The reason for this is I'm going to build up the center of the loop with a garden, one reason that I need to keep the bricks butted closely to each other. My question about securing the track was during one of our severe storms out here I did'nt want to be looking for track scattered around the neighborhood!!! Jon
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  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
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Posted by cacole on Saturday, August 13, 2005 10:53 AM
I use a product sold by Home Depot here in Arizona called a split brick paver. These are basically a clay brick cut in half so they are only one inch thick. I don't fasten the track at all -- leave it loose so it can float.

The pavers you have are really used to build a retaining wall, and are not called pavers out here; but yes, these would work. You could even leave a one-foot gap between blocks and not have any problem with the tack sagging between them.

When I laid my track, I used 4 split pavers per 5-foot section of track, and have had no problems.
  • Member since
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  • From: The South
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Track Securing Question
Posted by highrailjon on Saturday, August 13, 2005 9:30 AM
I have a newbie question for you pro's!!! I'm planning on laying my track on these brick pavers as seen in the photo below. The weather down south can become pretty violent with some storm gusts hitting 60-70 mph. Is there a proper way I can secure my track and also allow for expansion? Any suggestions would be appreciated!! Thanks, Jon

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