REA 2-4-2 kitbash

[Anonymous]

missed the aristo conversion - but impressed enough to try this on mine . btw i use styrene punchings from a leather punch for my rivets . just glue on and lightly sand . looks a great conversion , adds character

[Anonymous]

Looking great Vic! A little to clean perhaps for Borracho Springs R.R. though, but I see you plan to take care of that in your next step

[vsmith]

Teaser Pic[:D]

Got the basic painting done...next some weathering

[Anonymous]

Well, sorry this thread got hijacked Vic. Which reminds me don't say "HI" to anyone named Jack at the airport in this day an age.

Rastun, I understand drillbit sizing to a point, in my line of work from wood to drilling and tapping metal for commercial doors and hardware. I guess my question was more to pin drills and bits and what a good starting point was to achieve what Vic has so wonderfully done on this loco.

Beer and sleep has an effect on how articulate I am[:D]

[Rastun]

I have always thought this was a good starting set for most drill bit collections http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32928

then a person could add the micromark set to have a full set of numbered bits.

Jack

[Rastun]

Wow,

#61 - #80 that's some tiny drill bits

Matt,

We'll see if I can answer this drill bit question in a somewhat coherient matter.

Fractional drill bits what most people are used to seeing usually range from 1/4 up to 1/2 inch in 1/64 in. increments then from 1/2 on it is usually 1/16 in. increments if not up to 1/8 in. increments.

Numbered drill bits most commonly seen from 1 to 60, but we know they go down to 80, the smaller the number the larger the drill bit. A #1 bit is 0.228 in a #60 drill bit is 0.040 in the Increments between these drill bits are much smaller than the increments between fractional drill bits. (Small aside to explain some of the uses) In my work (airplanes) with rivets we don't want the drilled hole the exact same size as the rivet, if it is when the rivet is "shot" as it compresses and swells it would buckle the metal around it. So we drill the hole just a bit larger than the rivet, the hole for a 1/8 in. (0.125) rivet is drilled with a #30 (0.128) drill bit, leaving enough room for the rivet to expand without buckling the metal. Another use for these drill bits along with Lettered Drill bits is since they have smaller steps between them you have more controll over the size of the hole. A lot of the holes that need to be drilled so they can be tapped for threads actually come from the numbered and lettered drill bits.

So looking back at this it seems that numbers and letters are more precise than fractions.

I hope this helps anyone that has read it if it hasn't email me or ask here and I will try and explain it in a different manner. [:D]

BTW Nice job Vic [:)]

take care,
Jack

[Anonymous]

Thanks, I need to add some rivits on the Mogul. I was reading the current gazette and the author of the large scale build said he grinds the brad square on the heads to use for bolt detail, which I had thought of that! Could of had a V8 huh.

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by carpenter matt

Vic, what size of pins/nails have you been using for rivets, They look great.
Maybe I ought to post this in another thread but can you explain pin drills and how they size the bits? I need to get one those soon, but don't want to walk in blind in what to ask for.

Hi Matt

Those are #4 brads if my memory serves me, I get by the box at OSH. If I could find smaller I'd use them. As for drill bits, I dunno? Seriouslty, I keep them all in a small container, I just know which one is the "rivet drillbit". I would get a small set of micro drills from a hobby store, starting from about 1/16" down as low as you can afford but I rarely use any bit smaller than 1/32", be advised in a Hobby Shop the bits are measured like #10, #30, so on.

This is a good set of micro-drillbits from Micro-Mark, something similar to this is what you should be looking for.

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=60362

[TrainFreak409]

The backhead detail is absolutely amazing! That's what I call authentic!

The bunker doesn't look half-bad either.[;)]

[Anonymous]

Vic, what size of pins/nails have you been using for rivets, They look great.
Maybe I ought to post this in another thread but can you explain pin drills and how they size the bits? I need to get one those soon, but don't want to walk in blind in what to ask for.

[John Busby]

HI Vic
Doesn't look very Tasmanian to me[swg]
no buffers and screw couplings.
Did you lower the cab or leave it as is.
Nice job
regards John

[Anonymous]

Nice one Vic, where did you get the little valves etc for the backhead?
Cheers,
Kim
[tup]

[vsmith]

Hi all

After reading about LambingFlats Aristo 2-4-2 conversion on MLS I was itching to try something similar on my recently acquired REA 2-4-2 I got from Dave aka TOC. I added backhead details and a fuel bunker to the cab, makes a big difference in the appearence and beleivability of the loco.


Backhead rough

backhead finish

bunker rough

bunker rough

bunker painted

Still have alot of finishing to do, need to repaint the tank, but i wanted to share this,

Thanks