More Power!

[smcgill]

bgrudin : welcome!!
I have the Aristo - te. also.
Mine has been working great for some years on two diff. layouts!
Screws and greese are good. my track is usa (same as aristo)
I run a couple of usa-9's with 6 to 8 cars (metal wheels) up a 4to6 % grade no problem.
If you want to go bigger (engines) later why not have the power now and not pay twice!

[Chompers]

bgrudin,

if your track is brandnew, i would put rail clamps on the joints soon. I have LGB track and it has been out side for 3 years, and now i want to use rail clamps. the ends of the rails are so full of dirt that i can't pull to pieces of track apart...

[tangerine-jack]

I have a little more track than you and I am using a 10A Aritso TE. Way more than enough power there. Logic: how many trains can you run at one time on 100' of track anyway? Get at least 10A, spend the extra at the begining and save money in the long run. Value shop a little, if you can get a 15A or 30A for a few $$ more, then do it! You can never have too much power!

Make sure your connections are tight at the rail joints, I use conductive grease and also run a feeder wire every 5' or so. Good luck!

[oX)]

[Anonymous]

I have not decided on the train I will run yet. Right now I am just testing the track with my LGB Christmas loco. To keep expenses down in the beginning, I am thinking about Aristo or Bachmann.

After the advise of cacole, I took out a switch in my track design and I actually got the train to run with my 1amp transformer. It stalls often at marginal connections so I am thinking about soldering them but at least I have seen it work.

I will probably run one train for now, but upgrade in the future. I think the 10 amp will be where I start.

Ben

[Anonymous]

You did not state what locomotives you have and plan to have... how many will run at the same time, and even the models is important information, for example LGB locos draw less current than Aristo, and some of the USA locos, like the GP7 can draw 9 amps at stall....

I'm running DCC, stainless Aristo rail, and have an ampmeter connected at all times... 20.2 volts AC with a 10 car train and 2 USA F3's is about 4 amps on mostly level grades. I have a 10 amp supply and that will probably be just enough for 5 F units MU'd at moderates speeds. I will probably go to 15 amp supplies.

Regards, Greg

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info. I think this will be helpful. Any advise on how powerful my power pack should be after I insure that there is no short in the line?

[cacole]

That 1 Amp transformer won't run anything unless it's right at the point where the wires connect to the rail. Depending on your track layout, you may have created a short circuit that is causing it to not work. Being a cheap train set power pack, it probably doesn't have an overload light to alert you to this possibility, and may not have an internal circuit breaker, either, so don't try to use it..

The Bridgewerks power pack or any other good brand should have an overload light or internal protective circuit breaker. Be sure to use heavy gauge wire between the power pack and track, and have power feeds to the track in several locations.

The AristoCraft track's screws will work loose over time, so you may eventually need to use rail clamps, solder your rail joints, or solder jumper wires around the track joiners.

Before you attempt to run a locomotive, connect a good power pack to your track, turn up the throttle, and watch the overload light. If the light comes on, you have a short circuit in your track that you must locate and eliminate before your train will run.

If you don't have a power pack with an overload light, use a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) to check your track.

The first test you should conduct is to set the meter on Ohms (resistance). Connect the meter to the wires to which you intend to connect the power pack, and measure the resistance. You should get a reading of or near infinity. If you get a reading of or near zero, you have a short in your track, possibly because the track is looping back on itself somewhere and needs insulated rail joiners.

If your Ohms reading is Infinity, it's now safe to connect the power pack and check the overload light. If the overload light doesn't come on, then it's safe to put your loco on the track and run it.

[Anonymous]

I am just finishing my first GRR line of about 100' of AristoCraft brass track with 2 switches and some gentle grades. Is there a rule of thumb as to how much power I will need to run it? I am looking at the Bridgewerks controllers but they range from 5-30 amps.
Just for fun, I hooked up my 1 amp LGB starter set transformer to my line when I completed it and obviously nothing happened [:(]

One other question, with the Aristo track, do I have to do anything more to the joints than connecting them with those *** screws?

Can anyone help a new member out?
Ben