Info on LGB locos?

[Anonymous]

Hi,

 I have a later Stainz loco.

#21211

The stack won't smoke.

The loco has a 3 position switch in the cab.

I got the correct smoke fluid for LGB but no smoke.

How do I  test and how do I get smoke device out of stack?

I tryed to access the web page mentioned showing a blow up of the loco but can't access it.

Thanks,

nhlgbdude

[Anonymous]

Well....I went ahead and busted the Stainz open, and installed a decoder. All I can say is that LGB needs to take a lesson from the Bachmann G scale 0-4-0 Porter on designing for ease of assembly. The Porter only requires you to remove two screws, slide the boiler forward a fraction of an inch and lift up. Everything is exposed. The Stainz was "almost" the worst I've run into. The Bachmann On30 Porters were worse to install decoders in. The Stainz is a painz. I had a MRC Ho steam sound decoder laying round, so I put it in. Didn't last long, but it worked for awhile.
Isolating the motor was easy, once I finally got the blasted thing apart. Two brass strips with dangley down pieces that contact the motor contacts. Just bent them double to clear the contacts and soldered wires on. A couple more wires from the brass strips for the power pickup. I put the decoder in the cab with wires long enough to pull the decoder completely out of the cab. Glad I did, since it soon burned up. (I figured it would when put it in.)
I can only say, that loco is a real painz. At least now I can replace the docoder without having to go through taking the blasted thing apart again, and then getting it back together again.

[Anonymous]

Hmm

ian

[bobgrosh]

Cap
Here is a link to a PDF showing an exploded diagram of the newer version of the Stainz.
http://217.160.206.33/medien.nsf/medien/2BE30969A7454B9485256B2F005BB92A/$FILE/21211-1.pdf
This will help you get the loco apart, however the wiring and motor block is totally different from the one you have.
The new motor blocks (shown on the PDF) have a removable top and bottom plate. Your block should be one that splits lengthwise down the center dividing the motor block into right and left halves. In my opinion, the old block you have is much more robust than the newer block and well worth the extra effort to convert. I have bought a couple of these old locos ($25 to $50 USD at swap meets) and use them to rebuild newer locos that have striped gears.
To disassemble the older block, Start by removing the front and rear extensions. remove the wheels, then remove the screws that hold the left and right halves. You will have to isolate the motor, I just inserted plastic shims. Then I solder two wires to the motors tabs. Cut a notch in the indentation where the old leads exit for the additional wires.
I'm going to contradict someone else's earlier advice about the LGB decoder. The Digitrax, Lenz, and NCE decoders do not perform as well on dirty track as the LGB/MTS decoders. (I never tested a Zemo so will not comment.) For these 0-4-0 type locos go with the MTS, none of the other decoders mentioned have any extra features that you can use on this little loco anyway. Also, The current Digitrax decode will not fit in the Stainz. and the NCE decoder will give you such bad slow speed performance you will be ripping it out in a month. (Been there!) Some of these other decoders are useful for larger locos with more pickups, but Only the MTS decoders should be used in the smaller locos. I'm so convinced of the MTS superiority on dirty track that I have several locos with two decoders. A MTS to run the motor and another brand for everything else.
Have fun, take your time and work slowly when disassembling the motor block. It is not that hard.
Sorry I can't help you with the other loco. Never had any of them.
B0B
PS
Do you know of any models or kits for a small (inter-coastal) tug boat that works out close to 1:20 scale?

[Anonymous]

Yes, you can install decoders in these locos, but I would shy away from the LGB Type 2 decoder and go with Lenz, Zimo, or NCE brand. Much more options in those brand of decoders. Also, realize that even within the same "alpha series" of a Stainz loco production, there were numerous gearbox types--and the "sandwhich" gearbox is not easy to convert -- unless you are quite skilled mechanically and electrically. I converted a sandwhich Harz 2-6-2 loco (3 axle drive) and it really got on my nerves getting it right.
It can be done...but it will take time and LOTS of patience! If a buddy or firm you know will do it for you, all the better--the only problem with going to LGB for install is of course, you will be forced to use the TYPE 2 MTS decoder.

[Anonymous]

I think both Troy and I have similar Stainz locos with DCC in them.

Rgds Ian

[Curmudgeon]

First, see how many wires from each motor block. If only 3, it's a bit of work (cutting, grinding, soldering) to be able to pick up power from 2 wires and apply motor power with 2 wires.
Do-able, but if you need instructions on installing dcc, it might be more than you can do.
TOC

[Anonymous]

This might be of use with the Stainz install http://www.wintaylor.f2s.com/lgb/stainz.php it's a later version but might give some useful information on disassembling/reassembling the loco. Hope this is of use!

[jebouck]

When those two locos came out, DCC was just an idea that LGB was kicking around. There would be no mention what-so-ever about installing a decoder in them in the manuals.
You would install them as you would in any non-decoder LGB loco. There isn't any interface as in some of the later models.
It involves wiring and soldering.
jb

[underworld]

Try Jackie's Trains [phone]. He has some old books and can probably find the information for you.

underworld

[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]

[Anonymous]

I'm looking for the manuals to see what is necessary to put DCC decoders in these two locos.

[kstrong]

You can probably get technical information for the two models you have from LGB's web site www.lgbofamerica.com . They do sell a CD with maintenance drawings for their models, so that may be of assistance.

The first one - the Stainz - has been an LGB staple item since day one, so it's hard to tell which year it was produced. LGB changed their numbering to a 5 digit system I believe in the mid to late 90s, so it was built before then, at least. Same for the diesel. The "D" designates that the locomotive has a smoke unit, which is turned on and off by a slider on the bottom of the locomotive beneath the smokestack. (The smoke stack screws into the bottom of the loco kind of like a really long light bulb. The slided completes the circuit to the nub on the base of the stack.) Beyond that, there's not really anthing technical about that particular locomotive that you'd need a manual for.

The Santa Fe diesel is based on the Alco diesels built for the White Pass & Yukon Railway in Alaska.

The "Queen Mary" series was a series of non-prototypic paint schemes from other railroads that they applied to this particular loco (and perhaps other models). This model dates from around the early to mid 90s. Again, the web site may have some more technical information as to what any switches may do, and certainly the CD would have that for you.

Later,

K

[Anonymous]

I just picked up 2 LGB locos and am looking for information and mauals for them. I have looked on the LGB site and a number of other sites and can't find any information or even a listing for them.
The first one, is a Stainz, model 2010 D. It is numbered "2". It is an early one as it has no sound. It has the number "2774" on the steam dome. I would like to find out what year it was made, and a manual for it.
The second one, a Queen Mary Series, model "2156 S" SantaFe livery. I can find no listings or information at all. I would like to find out the year made, a manual, and the loco that it models. It's a six axle diesel, with sound.
Any help finding info and manuals on these locos will be appreciated.