Aristo-Craft Track question

[Anonymous]

I'm just getting started with plans for my outdoor layout. Looking at the different track options available I am leaning towards Aristo-Craft because I like the screws at the connections. Can someone tell me the difference between the USA style and the Euro style and the advantages and disadvantages of each? Thanks

[Rastun]

Usa style has more ties per foot along the US mainline practice the Euro style has less tie per foot like the Euro and narrow gauge line practice. advantage or disadvantage is what ever you want to model.

Jack

[Anonymous]

Also...the USA style ties are smaller than the European style. That is how they do 14 ties per foot for USA and 11 ties per foot for the European style. If you are working in the 1:29 or 1:32 scale, you would want the USA style. The European style are better for the larger scales like 1:20 and such.

[Capt Bob Johnson]

I also liked the idea of the mechanical fastening of Aristo track, but you'll soon be a cussin' those @#$%$#@#&^little screws. Tip --- Elmer's glue stick will let you coat the tip of your driver enough to hold the screw while you get it started. 1stick has lasted me over 3 years, not bad for an under a buck purchase?

I chose to pay the 20% premium and go with SS track, and I've not regretted it!

Got so perturbed at those little screws that I've changed over to rail clamps, Hell, I can't take it with me and I supported the kids long enough!

[Marty Cozad]

HI Shawn
It has been covered well in the above. If you want a modern look use the american, plus some of their #6 switchs only come in american. Plus watch for sales, Aristo has the best speacials on their products.

[Anonymous]

I laid 135 ft of stainless track today in about 8 hours. The screws are small but I suggest that you buy the additional bag of screws rather that dig them all out of the wax under the track.
I used Aristo-electrical lube in every connection. Apply with a pipe cleaner.
The track looks very realistic and I am happy with the result.

[Anonymous]

Tom, [#welcome] to the forum! Congradulations on the track being down, your are way ahead of me.

[Anonymous]

get a small magnet when laying track to pick up the small screws , thats what i did . BEN

[Capt Bob Johnson]

I've found that when working with the Aristo #6 switches, the ties will interfere with the ties on the diverging track. Rather than reduce stability of the switch, I cut the ends off ties on the track piece. Used to cut with razor saw, now use hot melt method of cutting blade in soldering gun.

[Anonymous]

Same experience with the #6 switches myself. I use a carbide cutoff disc in my dremel, cuts like butter.

The screws that are coming in the Aristo SS lately are crummy, the socket head is really shallow. I ordered a bag of spare screws from wholesaletrains and they were much better, like the original one on the brass track.

You can see a crossover with 2 #6 switches, and a 6 inch piece of track on my web site www.elmassian.com look under phase 2 construction.

That gave me a 7" track to track spacing.

Regards, Greg

[Anonymous]

I am using Marklin (made by Aristo) Stainless Steel track and I am told (as I'm pretty new to this myself) that you can't get better track than this, Stainless Steel will outlast all of them.

[ghelman]

Hi Shawn,

I have used both LGB and Aristo. I soldered jumpers on all of my LGB track and never had a problem. I have added some Aristo and will follow some suggestions I have received on this forum. But, so far I like the way LGB looks once it ages. The Aristo hasn't been outside as long, but, I don't think it will look quite as good. Operational wise I think they are comparable. I have both LGB switches and Aristo. They could both use a little help with movement. Good luck with GRRing.

[markperr]

ghelman, be patient with your Aristo track. I've had mine down for five years (both aristo and LGB) and you can no longer tell them apart without getting in close to look at the color of the ties (brown vs. black)

Mark

[cacole]

One additional item that needs to be considered when choosing between stainless and brass AristoCraft track is, those little screws will work loose and eventually fall out if you don't go around and check them all periodically. Brass track can be soldered, but stainless cannot. In the long run, if you have too much trouble with screws coming loose and falling out, you can solder the rail joiner to the rail if it's brass. Expensive rail clamps are about your only option if you have stainless steel.

[tangerine-jack]

Stainless will last longer than brass, but none of us will live long enough to find that out first hand. The real debate is the corrosion. Brass corrodes, SS does not. I use brass Aristo and never had a problem, Capt Bob uses SS and never had a problem. So it would seem that the question is, which would you like to look at- silver or gold? It's up to you, either way you will have a great railroad.



[oX)]

[cutlass12001]

I have been using aristo brass track since I started. And yes, those #$%^%^&**(*&&^^%%$#little screws, lol. I buy extra bags just so I don't have to dig them out of the gravel under the track. I am also using large chicken grit for ballast. It looks really good, and it is the right size that I am looking for. As for switches, I have 2 --4 ft radius switches now and have 2 wide radius switches on order from Charles Ro. Only problem, they are on back order, hope to have them before summer really gets going. I am running a 2-4-0 steamer, a 4-6-0 mogul, and a railbus. Now I'm adding a tunnel so I don't have to carry trains in and out of the house when I want. Recently, last year, went wireless, with the Crest Walkaround Engineer control system. Now I have to figure out how to wire the switches to the control units so I can use them with the remote control hand control. Might never be done with it, always something to do.

[barclaysierra]

I just laid about 200 ft of both LGB and Aristocraft sectional on my patio, and I used rail clamps. They are expensive, and pulling the joiners a pain, but the results are much more solid, and no little screws. Buy the ball driver wrench with them, much easier to use.

[CandCRR]

Does anyone know what size those Aristo screws are? I ran out before finishing. I have a lumber yard about a mile from my house that carries a small assortment of small screws but was not able to match it with any at the store. They told me if I found out the size, metric or english and a number like 1/4 20 they may be able to help.

[Rastun]

Jaime,

The tap I have for them just says M2 so 2mm and what ever thread size that screw comes in, being it is so small there is probably only one thread pitch.

Hope that helps you out,
Jack

[Train 284]

Good choice using Aristo-Craft, that is what I use and I am very happy with it. Anyways, USA style has smaller, and more ties per foot, and it is vis-versa with European style. Also, American style is held together with "spikes" and the European has some sort of hook thing that keeps the rail to the track if you ever seen pics of this type of track. In conclusion, there is really no disadvanyage for either, it all depends if your modeling an American railroad, or a foreign railroad I guess.

Matt

[tmcc man]

I help out at the Morris Arboreuteum's garden railway display, and we use mainly aristo. We do not have any of the original clamps, we switched over to the the Split Jaw rail clamps, and we also have multi stranded wire soldered to the track for better conductivity and another tip, if you decide to use the screws, buy another couple of bags. And i plan to use the split jaw rail clamps for my layout