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Got ya, moving from one scale to another.

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Got ya, moving from one scale to another.
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 17, 2005 12:13 PM
In another thread, I had a response warn me to stick to 8' diameter curves. I cringed, knowing there's a couple of spots where I want to put my layout that I can't get an 8' radius.

After so long in another scale where we think in Radius, I keep running into a "Gotch Ya". I have to remember to mentally switch to think in diameter instead.

Any other "Gotch Ya's" to be cognizant of?

Oh in the original thought in the thread. I can fit a 10' diameter. And thats the tighest curve I have to make. I can also, just move away from that area of the yard, and not deal with it at all. If 8' diameter is absolute minimum, is there a recommended minimum? I know, wider the better, but in practical terms, whats guidline? Min. 9' dia, 10' dia?
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Posted by markperr on Thursday, February 17, 2005 12:29 PM
The minimum is based on what your modeling. If it's mainline Steam or diesel (1/29 or 1/32) then 8' diameter should be the minimum to make the item look good. Some larger diesels won't work very well if at all on anything less than 8'. If you're planning on modeling narrow gauge steam (1:20.3 or 1/22.5) then you can probably get away with much smaller, say 5' diameter or even 4' diameter. Either way, bigger is still always better but in the case of narrow gauge may not necessarily be prototypical.

Hope this helps.
Mark

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Posted by vsmith on Thursday, February 17, 2005 12:31 PM
Wider is better , but 8 foot diameter (4 foot radius) is becoming the standard of design for LS. Almost everything outside of the very largest engines (or very very picky and finicky Accucraft engines) can run on an 8 foot diameter curve.

One other "Gotcha" to be carefull of, make sure any switches you buy are comparable in curvature to your minimum curve radius, IOW dont install 6 foot diameter turnouts and then be surprised when your Big Boy derails on it. This is something alot of people did unknowingly back when the number of switches available was limited or they bought a new larger engine and forgot they still had a couple of old LGB 4 foot diameter switches on their layout.[8D]

   Have fun with your trains

  • Member since
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Posted by markperr on Thursday, February 17, 2005 12:34 PM
Just noticed your intermodal post further down. A dash-9, huh? Yep, definately 8' minimum, 10' would be even better.

Mark

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Posted by vsmith on Thursday, February 17, 2005 12:39 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by markperr

The minimum is based on what your modeling. If it's mainline Steam or diesel (1/29 or 1/32) then 8' diameter should be the minimum to make the item look good. Some larger diesels won't work very well if at all on anything less than 8'. If you're planning on modeling narrow gauge steam (1:20.3 or 1/22.5) then you can probably get away with much smaller, say 5' diameter or even 4' diameter. Either way, bigger is still always better but in the case of narrow gauge may not necessarily be prototypical.

Hope this helps.
Mark




Mark I would say even if your doing narrow gauge 8 foot should be the utilized if possible, alot of it depends on what engines and cars you plan to run. I use 4 foot diameter only but being indoors my layout and rolling stock are specifically taylored to my space limitations, hence I only use smaller engines, which noone seams to want to make anymore. Even B'manns spectrum engines are designed more towards the wider radius curves. Accucrafts A/C and USA are getting pickier with each new release. Accu's C-16s can operate on 5 foot diameter but the newer K's need 8 feet and in standard guage their new cab forward will need 10 feet! A/C's big engines need 8', same with USA's. So wider is better especially if you have to room for it.

   Have fun with your trains

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Posted by Marty Cozad on Thursday, February 17, 2005 5:31 PM
My only thought on this is: Our Kansas club list on their open house s of what the min curves are . Which lets people like me know that I can or can NOT run on their RR. i personally think 10 dia (which i to had lots of trouble getting used to) should be min just so others can come run.
Now beings I have min of 20 fr dia most folks are only limited by battery power or live steam. BUT many folks who do bring "traveling trains " run battery anyway. So they always show up. I also let anyone run my trains if they want. Of course a beginners may have a short train till they get used to it.
Most folks have found how cheap and easy it is to convert to battery. Couple of friends who are track powered ,run Aristo engines, and they know if they come here they just use one of my batt cars.
Build your RR for others to come and play.

Is it REAL? or Just 1:29 scale?

Long live Outdoor Model Railroading.

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 17, 2005 7:03 PM
Sorry gang. I goofed. I think when I opened the discussion up to a specific example of a gotcha, I looked for the wrong thing. Right now my absolute min diameter anywhere is 10, and can easily be increasted to 15. I love the look of a train running a long wide curve. My shortest curve on my NScale was around 4' diameter.

Mostly what I was looking for is any more examples of differences in the language or issues between N and G scale. Like my example of N thinks in Radii, and G thinks in Diameter?

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