LGB Track Clips

[emipapa]

Ted D. Kramer,
Hope I was a help.
Good Luck,
Ron

[Anonymous]

Ron...AHA! Thanks for clearifying the use of the "dry wall sanding pole." This method would certainly be easier on my "poor old aching back." Yes, there are many endorsements for the ScothBrite pads and I intend to "go with the flow." Thanks again. Regards

[emipapa]

Ted D. Kramer,
The ScotchBrite pad that I speak about is a NON METAL scouring pad that in made from a plastic by The 3M Company and it is not steel wool nor it will leave any residue that will cause damage to the rails in any way. You attach this plastic pad to the bottom of the drywall sanding pole and you stay standing up and just rub the product on BOTH of the rails at the same time. You may want to do a search on the forums to see what thay say about this product.
Hope this is a help.
Ron

[Anonymous]

ScotchBrite sounds good for frequent maintenance. Sanding or using fine steel wool is usually a "no, no." Among other drawbacks, anything abrasive leaves a residue which is the "berrys" to clean-up. Such conductive debris fouls the wheels and can eventually get into the motor brick causing permanent damage. I believe I'll stick with the chemical approach for now anyway. Thanks for the prompt response. Best regards.

[emipapa]

Ted D. Kramer,
My road bed and track layout has not been built as yet but I am hoping to start the construction in a month or so OR when the many piles of snow melt or which ever comes first. I will keep you in mind regarding an easy way to clean the rails. Please don't be afraid to jingle or pull my chain if you don't hear from me. I use both of the products you have mentioned on by boat and I do know that they both work very well. Have you looked into the use of a drywall sanding pad and poll. In place of the sanding cloth everyone seems to use a scotchbrite type pad which does not damage the rails. I have read many threads about the use of these products. Please keep me posted on your finds.
Good Luck,
Ron

[Anonymous]

markperr, having made the same decision, may I offer a maintenance regimen for cleaning (polishing) brass track that works for me. In return, I hope for future input for discovering any improvements or preferred methods by responders. You may be familiar with a product called "Duro Naval Jelly" (Rust Disolver). It is used around marinas, dry docks, etc. for removing oxidation and rust from brass fixtures on power and sail boats. Phosphoric acid is the principal ingredient, so care must be used as per instructions, i.e. gloves, et al. After 2 or 3 applications of the Naval Jelly (wiped clean), I use "Never Dull" polishing pads as a final application which brings brass to a fine polish. On the most exposed rail, I solder track sections together with 18 gauge stranded speaker wire (jumper cables appx. 1-1/2" long). I've been considering applying shrink tape over the exposed solder joints. It may not be worth the mess in case of an unplanned "clean-up." Also "tape" may be unsightly. Frequent track car cleanings will make repeating this time consuming proceedure to a minimum. I would be grateful for any ideas that might bring the same results with less "elbow grease" and inconvenience. Best of luck to all of you.

[markperr]

I've already got about 400ft of brass, both laid and in the box waiting to be used. I'm way past switching to stainless.

Mark

[emipapa]

Ted D. Kramer,
I will second that motion.
Ron

[Anonymous]

emipappa and markperr, this is uncanny. All three of us are near water. I don't think it gets much "wetter" than here on the Gulf Coast of Fl. The obvious answer to our moisture concerns is stainless steel. However, I'm not quite ready to put a "second mortgage" on my house just yet. LOL, TDK

[emipapa]

Markperr,
Thank you for responce. You have said what I was hoping to hear. Regarding the smell of the salt air, we smell it all the time and we don't have to walk down to it. Was in Portland a short time ago, they have made some GREAT improvements there.
Thanks Again,
Ron

[emipapa]

Ted D. Kramer,
Thank You for your responce to my question. Now to answer your question, In a PAST thread on one of the forums, the question was asked about the difference between the two brands of track. The answer came from a fellow Garden Railroader who came across as a metallurgist, he went on to state that the LGB brand was made from all new virgin materal and the Aristo Craft brand used an unspecified amount of recycled brass. The reason the question was asked was that a garden railroader was complaining about RUST appearing on his Aristo Craft Track. The main reason for my choise is that we live close to the Atlantic Ocean and at times we feel the SALT-SPRAY and I just don't want rust in any way, shape or form due to starting out with track power.
Thanks for your concern,
Ron

[markperr]

Ron; Spent the first eighteen years of my life living in Maine just south of Portland, so I know of the climate you speak. The weather here in Michigan is nearly identical as we are surrounded by the Great Lakes. The only difference is we don't get to smell fresh salt air when we walk down to the waters edge. As for the track, your expansion/contraction problem will be so minimal that you'll hardly even notice it. Use the money to buy a new loco or some rolling stock instead. Now if you lived in west Texas or Arizona, that'd be a whooooole different ballgame.

Mark

[Anonymous]

Ron, my only question is not intended to be critical in any manner. I wonder why you have a preference for LGB track when Aristo Craft offers greater variety? It also can cost less if you take advantage of the 5 boxes for the price of 4 (Internetrains.com). Unless there is something about the appearance of LGB, it seems to me that the Aristo Craft "screw-in" track connectors (fish plates) would be preferable. Best of luck to you.

[emipapa]

Hi All,
Just thought I would say THANK YOU for your advice and I would like to answer a couple of your questions.

TO: Rocky CreekNZ, We live in the state of Massachusetts which is in the northeast corner of the USA. We have seen temps range from -25degrees F in winter to 100 degrees F in summer. Spring and Fall it can range from 30 degrees F in the Morning to 70 to 80 degrees F in the afternoon.

TO: Chestnut226, My ballast will be CRUSHED BLUE STONE and of course BLUE STONE DUST to lock it all together. I will dig a trench 6" deep to start and build up the stone from there.
.
TO: John Busby, Thanks for the info about the conductive paste, I do know that the paste you speak about will be a money saver, I will also look into the adjustable track you that you speek about.

Again I say THANK YOU for the reply's,
Ron

[Anonymous]

Hi emipap
I have used them to join every LGB track secsion together as my track is
pridominently LGB.
Forget about LGB's conductive paste go to the local automotive store and get a tub of good quality graphite grease it will do the same job a lot cheaper
wear old clothes as if you get the grease on them it is a [censored] job to get it out of them.
Also the clips must go in the right way up there is a right and wrong way up
with them put them in the wrong way and your sleepers (ties} will eventualy
break at the clip slot
Also as Bill C points out a good quality angular ballast is a must my track has been in ballast with clips for three years.
In temps from -2 or 3 in winter up to the 45 degrees c or there abouts in summer I have dealt with this useing LGB's adjustable track section and would recomend them where the line goes from in the full sun to in full shade as you have two diferent expansion rates to counteract I have found that opening the track to half possable length works well but did not use any scientific method to choose that length
regards John

[Anonymous]

Ron, I use them sparingly mostly on the curves of my modest 120-foot main line. Here in South Jersey the temperatures can range from 0 to 100 degrees F so during the past seven years the track has gone through a lot. Nevertheless, you should be sure to allow for expansion and contraction so leave the clips off at least every four to six feet.

By the way, make sure you use LGB part # 51010 conductive paste in the rail joints. Also, use of ballast with angular corners will do a lot to hold your track in place.

Regards,
Bill C.
South Jersey

[Anonymous]

Hi Ron,

I can't answer your question because I haven't put down LGB track.
But the bigger question is why are you worried about expansion? Is that because you live in an area that has great temperature fluctuations? If so you should mention what area you live in. There might be people reading this who live in the same area as you and are able to tell you if expansion has been a problem for them, and what they have done to get around it.

Glen.

[emipapa]

Hi All,
I have but one quick question at this time. I am just wondering if it is best or how many model railroaders use or install LGB Track Clips part # 11500 when they build there Garden Railroad using LGB Track. I will be using LGB Track this spring when I build my road~bed but I have NEVER seen anyone mention or talk about these track clips. The proposed site for the railroad would get direct sunlight most of the day so I am concerned about expansion and contraction of the track. I plan to build a ground level processed stone road~bed and at first I will be using track power.
Thank you in advance for any replies,
Ron
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