Rail Weather Proofing.

[Anonymous]

Naval Jelly (Duro) applied with a terri cloth pad followed by a good rub-down with Never Dull (cotton pads) will take care of heavy weathered rails. For regular maintenance, Scotch Brite applied with a palm sander (lateral motion not circular) does a good and quick clean-up job. I wouldn't use the "palm sander" on turnouts, X-overs, etc. Be sure to pick-up the residue (lint) from the Never Dull pads. Lastly, replace the plastic wheel sets with metal wheels (especially for outdoors) and clean them often.

[ghelman]

I use a product similar to Benny. It is called "Goof Off". If the track isn't to bad I will spray a small amount on my cleaning car's pad. Then I let My little Critter pull the car around. it takes a real dirty track to stop that duo. If the Little Critter won't run (which is seldom) I use the scrub pad routine. The aged rail does look nice when compared to a shiny new rail. I think you'll appreciate it once it ages.

[markperr]

Yeah, well I'd like to see pop rocks come back but after that kid in the sixties ate two bags of them and washed them down with a bottle of coke and then exploded, they've been outlawed here in the states. Now, if I want to get my "fizzie" fix, I have to travel an hour to Canada to get them.

Mark

[Anonymous]

Cacole, like so many other chemical cleaners, adhesives, paints the government has elected to prohibit; now the Fed is even into banning high cholesterol, sodium, calories in foods. In the same way a person wouldn't have 4 or 5 Big Macs a day, consumer abuse of cleaners, etc. without precautions is just as moronic. Of course, the approval of prescription drugs with fatal consequences, ammunition for assault weapons and cancer causing fertilizers is another matter, apparantly of no importance.

[cacole]

Geez -- Carbon Tet used to be used as the fire retardant in fire extinguishers, and I remember it being sold in bottles with swabs attached to the cap as typewriter cleaner way back in the early 1960's when the first IBM electric typewriters began to appear. I used to purchase it in pint or quart bottles as a general cleaning fluid.

[Anonymous]

I USE SCOTCH BRITE PADS AND GOO GONE , TO CLEAN MY BRASS TRACK ,out side and in side the house , i have been useing it for about 4 years now , the goo gone i get at K-MART OR LOWES, OR AT AN AUTO STORE. BEN

[Anonymous]

Joe, stainless steel is out of monetary reach for many Garden Railroaders. Some will say they actually prefer brass as it weathers to a realistic patina while stainless has a rather "tinplate" appearance. That, however, could be remedied with waterproof paint (rust tint) applied below the top surface. As to the storage of any chemical; I'm sure no one would intentionally leave a loose cap on their gasoline can either. My preference is the ScothhBrite pads also. I miss the Carbon Tet in cleaning metal alloy castings before the first primer coat application. I won't labor the point of the risk factors involving a myriad of chemicals used in a cavalier manner. Regards.

[whiterab]

Carbon Tet was found to be dangerous after high instances of liver and kidney damages were noted in people in the cleaning industry. As it is volatile, storing it can be a problem. A bottle with a loose lid can create long term exposure to anyone habitating the room. The damage is additive and some people are more sensitive to exposure than others. It went on the "BAD" list many years ago.

I just use a wet scotch bright pad on my brass track followed by a dry pad. I will be going to stainless steel track for my next expansion.

[Anonymous]

This is way "off-topic" but important in context of past postings. Holy Cow Joe! I knew Carbon Tet was pulled from the public as a health risk but the reason given was that kids and drug dealers were using it for some process envolving cocain (free base?). Carbon Tet apparently has the same reputation as some adhesives that were pulled due to consumers misuse and abuse. Currently, I believe Sudafed (medicine for sinusitis) is "under the gun," also for consumer abuses. Personally, I use masks and gloves when handling cleaners, even kerosene. Without taking precautions, (usually printed on the "directions for use" label) there are health risks in more chemicals than we can know. To paraphrase the words of Abraham Linclon: "Common sense isn't all that common." I guess Carbon Tet, certain paints and adhesives were the early precursors of what "fast foods" have become today? Thank you for the words of advise concerning the "risk factor" to folks who may not take their personal safety around chemicals (or fatty foods) seriously. Regards.

[whiterab]

Ted,

Please don't use Carbon Tet. There is a good reason one does not find it for sale to the general public these days. It's easily absorbed by the body and can cause some really nasty problems. Below is from the CDC site on material safety;


High exposure to carbon tetrachloride can cause liver, kidney, and central nervous system damage. These effects can occur after ingestion or breathing carbon tetrachloride, and possibly from exposure to the skin. The liver is especially sensitive to carbon tetrachloride because it enlarges and cells are damaged or destroyed.

Kidneys also are damaged, causing a build up of wastes in the blood. If exposure is low and then stops, the liver and kidneys can repair the damaged cells and function normally again. Effects of carbon tetrachloride are more severe in persons who are heavy consumers of alcohol.

[Anonymous]

Its unanimous! Varnish (either lacquer or oil base) may inhibit conductivity, Never Dull (polish pads), Naval Jelly (liquid), Brasso (liquid), ScotchBrite (cleaning pads), Wenol (paste imp. form Germany), Goddard's Polish (liquid) are just a few products to keep rails clean and polished. Carbon Tetrachloride was the cleaner of choice years ago. If you can still find it, please let me know how, when, where. Maybe a pharmacy?

[markperr]

I too would advise against it. Depending on the chemical make-up of the varnish, you could do damage to the plastic ties, possibly even destroy them. On top of that, Aristocraft has a five year warranty against defects on their rail. If you're using Aristo rail and you somehow damage it with the varnish, then you also void the warranty, and that can get pretty costly. It takes a very long time for brass to actually "corrode". Brass has a tendency rather to tarnish and can easily be polished up by using one of the methods described above. I've even used straight bleach wetted on the tip of a rag and wiped across the top of the rail to bring back conductivity. BTW, I live in Southeastern Michigan and my track has been down for over six years without so much as a problem. Your money would be better spent on a new piece of rolling stock, or some steel wheels, or Kadee couplers.

Mark

[Anonymous]

I am in 100% agreement with everyone - don't do it! It will probably cause more problems than those which you are trying to solve.

Brass doesn't rust away like steel does. It will develop a layer of oxidation which is an electrical insulator (which is why you need to clean the track if using track power); but, it would probably take 100's or even 1000's of years before it would corrode away - if ever.

Also, as others have pointed out, the brass will darken over time (LGB tends to darken quicker than Aristocraft being a slightly different brass alloy). I personally think the aged brass looks much better outdoors than the shiny brass track when it is new.

Jon

[tangerine-jack]

After a while the brass will weather to a dark brown or black, it looks very realistic, so why would you want to varnish? I fully agree with the others here, it would be a waste of energy to varni***he rails. Remember, this stuff is designed to be outside for many years, so by the time it corrodes we will all be long gone form this Earth.

Sounds like you got a little of the *** in you? You are outside now, buy a shovel and some work gloves!!!!!

[oX)]

[cacole]

The brass used by AristoCraft and LGB already has something in it so it can withstand outdoor use without corroding, so you don't need to do anything to it. Putting varnish or some such onto it may create more problems that it solves.

[Anonymous]

Hi mgilger
Please explain why you would need to do that??????
my track has been out three years with no treatment what so ever with no problem.
youwould only need to do that if your track IS NOT weatherproof which the
reputable brands like LGB and Aristocraft are.
regards John

[Anonymous]

I've had brass rail for 3 years now and recently some of the worst storms in a decade. If i want to run trains all i have to do is run a scotch brite pad over it a few times and it's cleen. I think the rail will outlast me and i'm only 15. i don't think you'll have problems with corrosion.
Hope this helps (jumbled as it is)
Scott

[Capt Bob Johnson]

I've not heard of such process, I think it will prove a waste of time, effort, and $$$$! If you're worried about that why not spend the extra bucks and use SS track?

[wa1lbk]

The varnish may cause more harm than good. I have several friends with outdoor layouts using brass track (1 of them for 20 years!); the brass will eventually discolor to a rust - like brown, but it still works electrically. I started construction on my own outdoor layout this past fall; only electrical problem I've really had is loose rail joiners on some well-used LGB brass track I picked up. The new track I'm putting down is Aristo - Craft, which has the bolt - together rail joiners; I'm also adding LGB conductive paste to the joiners on the track as I assemble it. Once the weather breaks (still digging out from the Blizzard of 2005 up here in MA! [B)] ), I'll redo the bad rail joints when I resume construction (don't even have a complete loop yet). I've been primarily running my Accucraft live-steam Shay on the outdoor line so far, which doesn't care a bit about electrical pick-up! [swg] Tom

[TheJoat]

Is this a problem? I've never heard of it. I have my brass rails outside and they don't seem to do much of anything.

[mgilger]

This spring I will be starting to build my first outdoor set up. I have been thinking about spraying some polyurethane varnish on the bottom portion of my brass rails to protect them from the elements. I was thinking if I taped off the top parts, to prevent any from getting on the wheel contact surface, that prevent any from getting on the surface the whells need pick up the voltage from.

I'm in Northern Ohio, so my concern is the wet springs and winters.

Has anyone tried the varni***o protect the rails from corrosion?

Thanks,
Mark