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Ladder construction at switches & double track?

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Ladder construction at switches & double track?
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, December 12, 2004 9:35 PM
I am long time HO but new to G and am in planning stage for future back yard RR empire. I intend to use elevated ladder construction for track base. However, the info I have seen so far does not adddress how the single track ladder approach is applied to dual track or turnouts. I would assume you would just use a wider ladder. Is that correct? Any pitfalls to watch out for?

While I am at it, I would gladly accept any comments on my strategy. I intend to use battery power with remote control and expect to eventually have 250 -500 ft of track (depends on how good my negoiations skills are with my wife). I am leaning toward brass .250 track (USA style) to keep cost down (vs stainless). That assumes I can locate matching track and turnouts under one mfg (Aristo?) to maintain a common look. Don't know what I will do for turnout control...have not had a chance to check out the options (manual vs elec vs air vs ???).
Paul D
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Posted by cacole on Tuesday, December 14, 2004 5:45 PM
Since you're going to run battery power with remote control, you don't need to worry about the track type at all, and will never have to clean it, so even plastic rail would be okay if the remote control you intend to use is a wireless system that doesn't send any type of signal through the rail. I used AristoCraft brass track. I prefer it because of the way the track joiners screw together for a tight fit. Since electrical continuity is not of concern with battery power, there's nothing special about rail joiners, so just use whatever will hold the track together. I run Bachmann 1:20.3 scale steam engines with the AirWire 900 wireless DCC system from CVP products, and am very happy with it.

Your question about an elevated ladder sounds like what I'm doing right now. I'm in the process of adding trackage that is elevated 14 to 15 inches above the ground on a ladder-type support system. I'm making mine from 1.5 inch wide strips of cedar cut off of wood fence pickets, with 2.5 inch long pieces one foot apart for the ladder rung separators. I glue the sections together with Gorilla glue and clamp them for 24 hours, and then give them a coat of polyurethane sealant. For curves, I'm using five 1/8-inch thick, 1.5 inch wide, redwood bender board strips turned up on edge and glued together into the desired radius with the cedar blocks that are used for the ladders holding them apart every 18 to 24 inches. My track is a single line everywhere. If I were using a double mainline, I would probably make separate ladders that are not fastened together side by side in any way.

I built a six-track yard turnout ladder using AristoCraft X-Wide Manual turnouts, item numbers ART-30370 and ART-30380, and had to put a 6-inch straight track between each of the turnouts to allow room for the manual (or electric) switch motor, because it hangs out pretty far to the side of the turnouts, so be sure you allow adequate room between tracks for turnout motors if you run parallel lines.

After doing that, I discovered that the AristoCraft manual turnout lever can be moved to the other side of the turnout if desired by simply removing three screws. Duh! I didn't need the 6-inch pieces between turnouts after all.

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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, December 28, 2004 3:23 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by cacole

Since you're going to run battery power with remote control, you don't need to worry about the track type at all, and will never have to clean it, so even plastic rail would be okay


Be careful what type of plastic you use outside. Make sure you use one that can handle UV rays from the sun, otherwise you will find it will breakdown after a year or two.

You could use Aluminum rail, as that would be cheaper than brass.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 5, 2005 4:50 PM
Oldokie, as to auto vs. manual turnout control [the last time I checked], Aristo elec. machines are not intended for outdoor use. I wrap mine with plastic floor sheeting held in place with bungy cords while not operating. My roadbed is 42" above ground level (braced off a fence), so this protection is easily done. Manual turnouts are weather "resistant," so I suppose the major concern is the location of same. In the yards, they are fairly "bunched" but if there is much distance between them, you may wi***o wear your "P.F. Flyers" (track shoes) to operating sessions. I too prefer Aristo trackage (U.S.A. style) for appearance as well as conductivity [which isn't a concern with radio control]. For uniformity, I would go with Aristro Craft all the way. Occasionally, they run sales whereby you get five boxes for the price of four (check their web site for sales). By the way, would "okie" have any reference to Oklahoma? I'm a refugee 16 years removed from Tulsa. Half of your problems are already solved with remote control but best of luck anyhow. T.D.K.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 5, 2005 6:44 PM
Ted...yep...Norman OK. Right now I am in morning for the poor performance of my Sooners in the Orange bowl.

I do not intend to use elec controls for turnouts. I intend to use an air control system like EZ-Air
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 6, 2005 5:45 AM
Probably a good choice (EZ-Air). Check out "Opinions Please" on this forum if you have time. Wasn't able to watch the Rose Bowl game...just as well, eh? Sooners are still winners just getting there. Keep us informed on your layout progress. "Boomer Sooner." T.D.K.

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