Track power connections

[Mark_S]

Curmudgeon gave good advice about following the track with a feed wire:

Lay your bus wire alongside the track, one on each side, to the far connection point (at LEAST close and far connections), and you can strip off the insulation with an xacto, and connect feeders if you have issues..no need to even tape up the joints as they will be separated by the plastic tie width.

But if you do this outdoors, be aware that the exposed conductor will corrode and eventually get eaten away - protect the joints with something.   One good option are the grease cups that they sell for automatic sprinkler systems.

Mark

 

[LCB]

Tom Trigg,  

Did not mean to ignore you last post, just got busy with other things. My "in-place" is just on the floor right now so I could assess the track bracket and track base locations/layout and their impact to ceiling lights, windows, pictures.  So I need to disassemble everything as the wood hangar frames and track base is all just raw wood.  I want to do a quality job and sand everything down and put a nice finish on it, so it looks like a nice piece of finished furiniture.  Additonally, I need to move some large pictures, and repaint all the walls before I get started on finishing the track base, etc.   So based on everyone's inputs and my skill set, I think I will go with the " normal" under mount rail clamps.  They appear to give a pretty good solid long term fix. If I need to add another power connection I can always climb up in the attic space (not an easy task) and just drop down another power connection if needed.  Hopefully with securing the track to the wood track base and adding the rail clamps that will not be needed.  Thanks again.  OBTW I never filled out a profile but I live in San Diego also.

LCB 

[ttrigg]

LCB

Quick thought. You saw you have the track fastened down already and you detected a few ill fitting connectors. Split Jaw and Hillmans (and at least one more that I don't remember) make an "over the connector clamp." Standard rail clamps are meant to be used instead of the slip on connector for a far better grip. As Curmudgeon said, they get a bit pricy for startups. Since you are "in place" I would echo his suggestion of laying your buss wire the length of the layout and over time make as many feeder wire connections as needed.

[Curmudgeon]

LCB

Tom Trigg,

Thanks for your prompt response and advice.   I did not even know that rail clamps existed, as I initially thought you just pushed the track sections together as securely possible and just went with that.  I have a lot to learn.  I will definitely be adding rail clamps based on everyone’s suggestions and will definitely check out these split jaw rail clamps.    

I really liked your idea of how to clean the track periodically as once this thing is up, it will be extremely difficult to access the entire loop with out having to move large pieces of furniture all over the place. 

Thanks for reminding me to think about engine maintenance.   I have not even thought about that yet, but know I need to. 

Again thanks for your sharing your wisdom and experience. 

LCB

 

 

You need good connections. Even LGB clamps are not foolproof..but better than some. We run a large 3-track setup for 45 days at a Church every Christmas. I have to test each fit..if there is insufficient "drag" while plutting two pieces together, I re-form the joiner so there is.

I tore apart a HUGE 2-rail 0 scale layoput several years ago after a firend died. He had drilled every single 30" piece of rail and soldered a feed into it, connecting under the benchwork to a buss line. Overkill? Maybe, but I guarantee you in 20 years he never had connection issues at a joint.

Effctively fitting Aristo joiners to LGB rail is a bit of fun. I never empirically compared the rail profiles, but it seems to fit Aristo joiners to LGB requires a hammer.

And, unless you plan on drilling and tapping the abutting LGB track for the Aristo joiner screw....

Lay your bus wire alongside the track, one on each side, to the far connection point (at LEAST close and far connections), and you can strip off the insulation with an xacto, and connect feeders if you have issues..no need to even tape up the joints as they will be separated by the plastic tie width.

Dave

 

[LCB]

Tom Trigg,

Thanks for your prompt response and advice.   I did not even know that rail clamps existed, as I initially thought you just pushed the track sections together as securely possible and just went with that.  I have a lot to learn.  I will definitely be adding rail clamps based on everyone’s suggestions and will definitely check out these split jaw rail clamps.    

I really liked your idea of how to clean the track periodically as once this thing is up, it will be extremely difficult to access the entire loop with out having to move large pieces of furniture all over the place. 

Thanks for reminding me to think about engine maintenance.   I have not even thought about that yet, but know I need to. 

Again thanks for your sharing your wisdom and experience. 

LCB

[LCB]

Cacole,

Thanks for the quick response.  I have some 12 and  14 gauge low voltage wire hanging around that I can use that for these runs.  I picked up a couple PIKO power clamps that will work for connecting the power to the rails.

I like the idea of adding rail clamps at each track joint to not only fix some of he problems I am experiencing now, but to avoid future problems, etc. 

I also saved the three web sites you mentioned to my new trains bookmark folder as I know I will need them in the future. 

Again thanks for your input. 

LCB

[LCB]

Narrow Gauge / Bob C

 

Thank you very much for your quick response.   I am learning a lot every minute in this hobby and have a long way to go. 

I have all brass track that appears to be new as it is really shiny.  The straight track is LGB and the curves are 48” radius  Aristocraft.   I am questioning the track joints connections some and may go with some of the suggestions made by others.   When I ran a large scale engine with a tender and four cars it seemed to hiccup a little at each joint as it went around the corners.   When I attached all the track pieces together, I attempted to butt the end of the rails up together as tightly as possible before screwing the rail ties to a wood base.   However, I still had a few 1/16” to 1/8” gaps once in a while.   I noticed that some of the track’s rail connectors were very loose so I will go back and try to crimp them together a little tighter.   Additionally, the Aristocraft track has some very small screws that can be used secure the rail connectors to the ends of the track rails, but I did not use them tink that just buting the ends close together would be just fine.  Loks like I may need to go with these mechanical rail connectors.    I may still add a second feeder point since I have the part and nothing else to do with it right now.  I will use 12 or 14 gauge wire.    

 I want to make all the connections, etc., as solid and long lasting as possible as it would be really inconvenient to move lots of furniture and get out a tall ladder to go back and do it right later.   

I am planning to run a Lionel large scale Great Northern 4-4-2 steam locomotive and tender 8-85107, or at least that’s what it says on the end of the box -- nothing very elaborate.   I also have a Bachmann Big hauler, but it currently does not run.   The headlamp comes on when I apply power to the track, but the drive wheels on the engine are locked up.  It has been in the original box for about 10 years in an attic so there is no telling what the issue may be.   That is something I am not going to worry about right now. 

Again thank you very much for your quick response after joining the web site and posted my first question.  I am impressed with everyone’s willingness to help each other. 

LCB

 

 

[Narrowgauge]

Cacole and Trigg,

 

I deliberately brushed over the rail clamps not knowing exactly what track he is referring to. Those clamps work great on solid rails, but will not work with the Bachmann hollow steel rail. They are also a rather costly item for a startup railroad. Considering he is indoors good clean joints will get him by for a while...assuming he has solid rails.  I have no experience making the hollow steel track joints so no advice there.

 

Bob C.

[ttrigg]

Narrowgauge and cacole have given sound advice. I would say that your highest priority should be given to the rail connections. As cacole refferenced, rail clamps will provide both mechanical and electrically secure rail connections. Your second priority should be rail cleaning. Since you are indoors I would guess that cleaning twice a year should do well for you. A simple sanding block should work well. Cut a piece of wood the width of a box car and short enough to not interfere with the wheels. Pre-drill and then drive a nail through the block at each end. Drill larger holes in the bottom of the box car so the nails will float freely while dragging the block around the track. Bevel or round off the corners on the leadin and trailing edges of the wood. Cover with a green scotch brite scrubbing pad. About three or four laps sould do the trick. 

Electrical supply. If you are using a secure rail clamp to join your rails, you need only to introduce power such that the engine is never more than 150 feet from a power point. In your case that means only one connection to the track. If you are using slip on rail joiners that came with the track, the I would advise differently. Slip on joiners will loose both mechanical and electrical connections over time. In that case I would suggest running a power loop completely around the track with 12 guage wire (speaker wire is good.) At each and every rail joint add in another feeder wire from your main to the rail. Many folks will tell you this is major overkill. And the would be correct, for now. Looking 3~5 years down the road you will start having several of the slip on joints fail. Unless you have power to each rail segment you will be on the ladder finding and repairing electrical connections. I use SplitJaw rail clamps myself, they have been in use since 1998 outside and I have not yet had a power failure from them.

Now for the MOST important issue you are facing. Engine mantainence. Establish a set schedule for cleaning and lubricating your engines. Most manufactures have a reccomended maintenance schedule. Check their sites for that info.

 

[cacole]

Different wire lengths for the three feeder wires should cause no problems.  My recommendation would be to use stranded speaker wire that you should be able to find at Wal-mart or similar big-box store in the electronics section.

For conneting the feeder wires to the track, rail clamps are available from several sources that have provision for attaching feeder wires.

I would also consider the use of a rail clamp on every track joint to avoid electrical problems in the future from corrosion or a loose rail joiner.

Take a look at the following web sites for various types of rail clamps:

www.splitjaw.com

www.rldhobbies.com

www.trainli.com

and there are others if you use the search phrase 'g scale rail clamps' in any search engine.

For power, track power will require frequent track cleaning.  Remote control battery power modifications are available, but the locomotive(s) would have to be removed from the layout for charging.

 

[Narrowgauge]

LCB,

 

There are a number of factors that will come in to play to answer your questions. The first question is what type of track do you have? If the track is brass or stainless steel, considering this is an indoor layout you have the advantage of not needing to worry about weather related corrosion. Assuming you have good track, and good track joints, I see no need of more than one feeder point. The run longest run is short enough to not have enough voltage drop to matter.

 

If you have the stamped steel track manufacturerd by Bachman, it might be advisable to secure the sections mechanically with additional electrical jumpers. Again the run is not long enough to require additional feeders.

 

You will however, regardless of track brand, need to clean the track periodically. This will be a function of use and indoor conditions. Dirty track will cause far more heartache than a little voltage drop over the length of the run. And remember, electrically the distance is only half the total run of the circle. My recommendation would be to use no smaller than a No 14 gauge wire, No 12 would be better. Use good mechanical attachments that will not loosen up easliy.

 

You haven't mentioned what type of equipment you will be running, which will also affect some decisions. I am going to assume that you will be running smaller equipment, as a ceiling layout usually does not allow for large diesels and steamers.

 

Good luck and Happy Railroading.....

 

Bob c.

[LCB]

Complete Novice-any help would be greatly appreciated.  I inherited some large scale trains and track and I know nothing about them, etc.  I am attempting to build and install a simple single loop (about 45' in length) system in my home that hangs from the ceiling.  I have read that it may be best if I apply current to the track in 3 separate locations (spaced about every 15 feet) to provide the best consistant power.  The transformer will be in a closet and I plan to run the wiring up into the attic space, across and then come down through the ceiling, along the track hangars to the track.   The approximate lengths of each run from the transformer are 21', 27' and 33'.    

So my questions are: 

Can each of the wire runs be the exact dimension listed above or should they all be 33' so I have the same power to all three locations?

Also what gauge wire should I use with runs of these lengths?  

Or should I consider some kind of remote control operated system?