Tom,
Thanks for the great tips, much appreciated. It sounds like the clamps are just the thing for mating rails of slightly different dimensions. I really like your idea to use them for ease of turnout servicing.
Wilton.
One quick tip for electric turnouts. "Tin" the copper wire ends with solder to put an end to corroded wires.
Tom Trigg
My answer to this question would be a resounding Yes, No, Maybe. The thickness of the lower flange varies between manufactures ever so slightly. I would say that the vast majority of the time, about 90%, you should get a reliable connection for at least the first few years, depending on your local micro-climate. Over time an ill fitting rail connector will corrode, which will interupt the flow of electricity if you use rail power. Of greater importance, at least to me, is the ability to lift the turnouts out for maintenance and/or repairs. All of my turnouts use rail clamps for this reason. Rail clamps (Split Jaw, Hillmans, etc.) allow the turnout to be lifted from the railbed without disturbing the adjoining rails, where as the slip-on type joiner will require several feet of rail disturbance. I lift the turnouts about every two years for a ten minute cleaning and servicing. A quick blast of compressed air @30psi clears all the built up dust and debris from the moving parts. I found 45psi to cause some damage to one electrical servo. I hope this helps.
After purchasing Bachmann code 332 brass track for my track plan, I expanded the plan. The improved plan calls for wide radius turnouts, so I am looking to acquire LGB R5 turnouts, as Bachmann doesn't appear to make anything like that. In G scale, do the different brands' rail joiners work well with each other's track?
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