The simplest solution might be to forget the joiners and get a battery powered train. How many locos do you have? If not too many it wouldn't be too much to convert them to battery RC and you will never need to clean track again. I am actually a track powered guy and there is nothing more frustrating than a bad joiner stopping your train. If I were you I would pull the track up clean the joiners then tighten hem up with pliers then put conductive grease in them and put it all back together. Rail clamps are good but can be expensive. In areas around my switches I removed all the track joiners so I can remove a switch without disturbing surrounding track. Clamps designed for over the joiner can be nice to tighten a loose joiner but it doesn't really provide a good conductive surface.
In tough spots I have used a conductive spray I think it is called 400? It comes in a 6" tall blue spray can and will get your train rolling again until the next couple of rains.
If you do not want to take all the track apart, there are other ways.
1. Over the joiner rail clamps Not a good idea as the original joiner has to make contact with the rail.
2. Solder wire jumpers across the joiners. Works, but best way is to drill a hole and insert the wire.
3. Solder the joiners, not good as the solder will not flow on dirty metal.
4. Drill a hole and insert a stainless screw. works but each joiner needs 2 screws. I bought these at the Denver meet several years ago, work great, but tedious drilling.
I do not know anything that will flow into and clean dirty connectors. There are a great many products available for use during construction that will aid in retarding this corrosion. Once it is wide spread as you describe, not much else to do other than replace all the connectors. Removing the LGB connectors is a bit difficult and, for me required a great many band-aids. LGB connectors have a 90 degree tab that reaches down through the plastic tie. Flatten the LGB connector by placing screwdriver in the connector and twisting the connector open. Use pliers on both sides of the connector to continue spreading the connector until it is flat. Now, rotate the flattened connector down from the rail, at the point where it becomes perpendicular to the rail, the tab will have worked its way out of the plastic tie without damaging it. Now quickly clean the lower portions of the exposed rail and install new connectors. If you use slip-on connectors (any brand) there are a number of pastes available that will conduct voltage for you. I would suggest an automotive electrically conductive grease. Bad part of grease is that it collects dirt. If you move to rail clamps (Heilman's or Split Jaw) you have the advantage that there is absolutely no room for debris to get inside the connector and disrupt electrical conduction. Mine have been in place with no loss of power in almost 17 years. Since rail clamps are tightened with screws, every joint gives the opportunity to use a small "eye type" electrical connector. Yes, the Split Jaw 'isolater' clamps work well too.
Tom Trigg
Thanks for the response. I'm experimenting with several approaches and will post what seems to be the best approach
Rail clamps such as Split Jaw may help, since they would provide a more permanent solution than some type of spray cleaner in the joiners.
I believe you can also get rail clamps with wire connections so you could add feeder wires as you go along for more reliable power.
Any spray type of cleaning solution will require that every rail joint be taken apart so you can get the cleaner into the joiner. And you want something that will not corrode.
Automotive supply stores have conductive grease contact cleaner for trailer connections and such that would probably be a better choice than any type of spray cleaner.
I run only battery power and don't have electrical connections to any of my track, so I'm only guessing on what may work in your situation.
several years ago I inherited my parents' home complete with my Dad's small garden railway. I let the track and roadbed languish until this spring when I got the roadbed back into and put the track back down (had taken it up for the roadbed work but it had been out through several winters). I've cleaned the surface of the track bit am still having issues with no power. I put a meter on my transformer and that's fine, plenty of juice at the track end of the connectors and in the first section of track. Second section is also live. In the third section I've got juice in one rail but not the other. Since I know the track surface is clean it has ot be in the connectors. This is LGB brass track so the connectors are not easy to remove. I know I could take up all the track section by section and clean inside the connectors wiht a file and/or emery cloth. But that seems incredibly tedious. Someone has suggested battery terminal cleaner, another has said Coke. Can anyone give my any suggestions as to what is the simplest approach? I'm wondering if there is some sort of spray product that would "eat" the corrosion or what guys have found to be the best solution to this problem?
Thanks for your assistance!
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