I am planning my first outdoor layout near Atlanta and have a couple of questions regarding using Split Jaw clamps with LGB track. Want to do it right the first time to avoid future issues, so any assistance will be appreciated:
1) I am getting different opinions on if Split Jaw clamps are recommended over using the standard LGB rail joiners. I believe that the Split Jaws would eliminate any future trouble with electrical issues. My local train store says they are not necessary. Can anyone share their experience?
2) When using clamps, is it recommended to use "expanding rail" sections to allow for track expansion?
Thanks!
The 'slip-on' rail joiners on LGB track (as well with any other brand) will corrode on the inside and cause electrical contact failure. 15 years ago I used Split Jaw joiners and have never had a problem, weather mechanical or electrical. My local climate is very moderate (northern San Diego county.) To cut the cost of using so many Split Jaws, on my longer runs I solder the standard slip-on connector on 5 foot rail section. These 10 foot sections are assembled with Split Jaws. There is a small trick in getting the factory installed connectors off. There is a tab that is folded down through the plastic tie. Jab a screwdriver in the joiner and spread t apart, grab the two sides with pliers and flatten it out. Now you can 'roll' the tab out of the tie by simply pulling the connector down from the rail. An extra advantage for Split Jaw clamps (Hillmans & any others out there) a small electrical "eye connector" slipped on the screw provides great electrical contact. I have a feeder wire about every 75 feet. I did not crush the 'eye connector' to the wire, rather I soldered it onto the wire. The only electrical problem I have experienced was when I dropped an hammer on my LGB "Switch Box" breaking off one contact point. My fault.
Rail expansion: My track floats on a gravel roadbed and I did not use any expansion joints. My temperature range is +40 to +110 and have never had a problem from expansion. On the occasional hot day I can spot where the curves have slid ever so slightly, maybe as much as 1/8 of an inch on a 200 foot run. Not enough to cause any problems. The only discussion that I can remember where expansion was a problem was on an elevated railroad where screws were used to attach the track to the wood. They solved the problem by removing the screws and using plastic 'zip ties'.
Other options that folks here have used with success. (1) Some folks solder every joint in place. (2) Some solder feeder wires to every rail section. (3) Some solder jumper wires across every rail joint.
Tom Trigg
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