Well said Rastafarr, Well said. (excellent pic)
Tom Trigg
http://www.buffalocreekandgauley.com/LOCOMOTIVES/ERCL/Shay_12_crossing_stream.jpg
This is why I'm a battery boy. Care to recreate that scene with track power?
Streamlined steam, oh, what a dream!!
Depending on the complexity of your track plan, you may want to also consider battery power instead of track power. My layout has numerous reverse loops that would have required some type of toggle switches to reverse polarity and numerous insulated rail joiners. With battery power I can even run on plastic rail, or during a rainstorm. Having to continually scrub track or spend a lot of time trying to trace down a short circuit or intermittent loss of power is not my idea of having fun. The only track cleaning required with battery power is to go around and sweep off the larger pieces that might cause a derailment.
The main reason I chose battery power, however, was because the soil here in Arizona has so much rock and caliche that I would have had to rent a ditch witch to bury electrical wire.
I don't know about 3 loops, but I started my layout 3 years ago. I have 340 feet of mainline code 330 brass track connected with Split Jaw clamps. I use a 15 amp Bridgeworks power supply with one feeder consisting of 12 gauge underground rated wire clamped to the rail with the Split Jaw clamp/screw. No power drop noted with two locomotives in a lash up.
My HO layout (indoors) has leaders every 6 feet. I haven't found that to be necessary for the garden layout. The 330 rail seems to be heavy enough so that there is no power drop. That was also what was recommended by the Bridgeworks representative and he was correct.
Paul Smith
Great post Todd.
Thanks,
JJ
Hello
Good advice given to you already, here is my experience. When I first ventured outside I had 125' of track running with a 1amp LGB starter set power pack. I only had one connection to the track. I could run one train at a time. As my layout and interests expanded I'm now running a Aristo train engineer with a Crest 12amp power supply over near 600' of track with 5 feeder wires. I can run 3 trains at once. If I were you I would start small and just get a train going this Spring then expand from there. It won't be much fun to spend your Summer digging and building so get something going soon and who knows you might change direction and save yourself headache. Do get a powerful power supply with enough juice to run what you plan to run but then again you might decide to go battery or even live steam. Garden Railroading is like riding a real train it is just as much about the journey as the destination.
I must agree with Kevin. However, I have a rule of "Over buy now, rather than buy twice." As your empire grows there will come a time when you wish you had purchased "bigger" at the start. If you begin with a "starter set" the small power supply provided will do the job depending on the layout of your feeder wires. I have placed my feeders every 50 ft of track, thus the engine s never more than 25 ft from a feeder. Some say that could be farther apart, but it is what I like.
Kevin recommended 10 amps. Allowing for continued growth of your empire, especially if you start running several "double headers", you might consider a larger unit, 15 amps. If you plan now for unexpected expansion you will not end up with several good and serviceable power supplies in the shed because they were not big enough to handle the expansion. My 15 amp Bridgeworks has done well for for the last 15 years of growth.
Length of track has little to do with the power supply. The longer the track, the more feeders you may need to overcome voltage loss at the rail joiners, but in terms of total power needed, the length of track is a negligible consideration.
For each loop (assuming you want independent control of the trains on each loop) you'll need a controller capable of delivering 2 - 3 amps minimum for each separate loop. If you're using a controller that has multiple independent outputs (some Bridgewerks, or a central power supply feeding something like Aristo/Crest's Trackside receivers, then for three loops you'll probably want something that can give you 10 amps total at a minimum.
Later,
K
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