G scale roadbed.

[FOREMAN]

I want to thank all of you that answered my question on track road beds.  I live in WA. I'm going to go with the pressure treated wood stakes every 3ft.   It well be the easiest way for me to get the track level and if I want to move it, it wont be embedded in concrete. Thanks again, Ron

[Winna Pic & Yucca River R.R.]

Depending how you fix the track, it can be done. I was worried about the same (we have rail clamps too) thing but the way I have fixed our track has worked great. See my post above and try it. You  may be surprised.

[Curmudgeon]

g. gage

I live in the Sierra Nevada Mountains near Truckee and Lake Tahoe, CA. My railroad is subject to frost heave and use the floating roadbed system. When I have frost heave problem it’s a simple task to re-level the track. Rob   

Not so easy when you have a lot of track. Mine is, oh, 1500 feet, some hung right at the edge of the canyon walls, 4 feet up, and any movement is disastrous. Floating doesn't work for me, and fixing the track won't work with track power, as expansion and contraction, if clamped, will rip the ties up.

Mine has zero volts to the rails, so standard slip joiners, with track screwed to posts or usually horizontal plates.

[Winna Pic & Yucca River R.R.]

When we first laid track a couple years ago, we used the floating technique. However, over time, for some reason, I became a ballast freak. It annoyed me so much how the ballast washed away and how the track would move. My brain-blast solution that I magically can up with one day: my dad is a contractor and he had quite a few long, steel stakes with holes through them  to lay out a house pad with string. Armed with my stakes, a hammer, tie wire and more ballast, I took up a section of track. I pounded in 2 stakes for 5ft of track then I looped a long piece of tie wire through the top hole on the stake and pointed the ends upward. Then I laid the 5ft piece of track back down carefully while sticking the wire ends in between the ties. I ballasted and leveled the track to where I wanted it THEN... twisted and tightened down the tie wire ends. Not too tight so I didn't pop a tie, but just enough. It worked like a charm.

Paddy McC

[g. gage]

I live in the Sierra Nevada Mountains near Truckee and Lake Tahoe, CA. My railroad is subject to frost heave and use the floating roadbed system. When I have frost heave problem it’s a simple task to re-level the track. Rob   

[ttrigg]

FOREMAN: much of your question depends on where you are. Here in sunny San Diego I use the floating roadbed technique. I line the trench with garden fabric to keep the crushed stone from “floating” away into the white clay. The clay would migrate up through the stones and some of the stones would sink 3~4 inches below the trench line. If you are concerned with frost heave then you might want to look at attaching your track to some thin wall PVC pipe. If you can tell us where you are located, someone in your area, or similar climate can give better ideas.

[nycmodel]

I am in the process of doing the same thing. Phase I is just about done. I am following the standard recomendations for trench roadbed. However, due to difficulties in obtaining crushed rock, crusher fines or decomposed granite in my area, I am using paver base (step 1) from Lowes. So far I am very happy with the way the roadbed is holding up. Of course, a Winter freeze/thaw will be the best test. You can follow my progress on mylargescale.com

http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/aff/23/aft/128138/afv/topic/Default.aspx

Wayne

Knackered Valley Railroad

Long Island, NY

 

[vsmith]

This was part of my outdoor layout before the Great Garage Project of 2005 called for its removal, you can get an idea how straightforward the Floating Ballast method is:

[vsmith]

Where are you? Thats a big factor whether you have to deal with frost heave and such.

Back before I moved into the great indoors my outdoor layout I used the Floating Ballast method, thats simply track set on top of (floating on) a 2" base of 3/8" crushed gravel, it worked really well. I used a combo of LGB track clips, Aristo set screws in the joiners and some Hillmann railclamps to keep everything tied together but once the track is down and you add a thin layer of crushed gravel between the ties, but stay away from any turnout mechanisms, and water it down it locks down pretty firmly.

My whole layout was in a gravel bed but you could simply use thin bendable redwood headers and stakes about 8-12 inches apart dug into the depth of the headers (6-8") line it with weedblock fabric (really just to prevent the gravel from migrating into the soil) and fill that to the top with the crushed gravel. Just lay your tracks on that (Being careful to make sure everything is nice and level)

DO NOT use polymeric sand, once it watered down it becomes hard like concrete and has a tendency to stick like glue to things like rail-heads, wheels, turnouts, etc. and very hard to break up for any changes or work, major pain to clean up.

[FOREMAN]

I'm at the stage that I am ready to lay track on my G scale outdoor track. Would you have any suggestions for  any help and ideas with track beds. I have read a lot about them but  I would like to here from someone that has done this already.