With Arizona ground being mostly rock or caliche around here, you would need a Ditch Witch to bury wiring, so I use only battery power and the AirWire900 radio control system. Some of my track is even plastic rail. I never have to worry about cleaning track except going around and removing larger obstacles that could cause a derailment.
Today's Lithium-Ion rechargeable batteries allow running for many hours. During a recent open house at our club, I ran one of my trains almost continuously from 10:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. without needing to stop and recharge or change out the batteries.
DCC is definitely an option. Lots of choices for systems out there in a variety of supply voltages and amperages. Figure out how fast you intend to run your trains and work from there. For instance, if you're running narrow gauge, you're probably okay with a system that operates in the 15 - 18 volt range. If you are looking to run mainline passenger trains at 80 scale miles per hour, then you're probably going to want a system that operates in the 20 - 24 volt range. You could follow the "more is better" route and be covered regardless, but know that there are decoders out there that might not be particularly fond of the higher voltages we typically use for large scale. That's fine if you're only going to run your own trains on your railroad and have full control over the electronics you install, but if you're going to have frequent guests bringing their own trains, let them know what you're running so they don't inadvertently cause damage to their stuff.
To my thinking, I tend to look at the controller itself as one of the key features in determining which system you want to get. That's the user interface, and if it doesn't make sense to you, you're not going to enjoy running your trains. Since the controllers aren't interchangeable between systems, you want to make sure you get one that you like. (Of coure, that' easy to write on a forum. Getting "hands on" with the various systems isn't exactly easy.) Check with on-line users' groups or forums--especially the small-scale ones--to get a sense of what people like and don't like about the various systems on the market.
I really can't offer much of an opinion as to which system is "best," since I'm not a full-time track-powered DCC user. (I use it on my shelf railroad to test installations and program decoders, but run Airwire R/C stuff to control it in the garden.) I've "test driven" a few systems and can't say there's any one that I've used that says "stay away." I do like the more full-featured handheld controls with informative graphic displays as opposed to the ones with just knobs and buttons. I would definitely defer to those who use these systems more or less full time for informed opinions about what they like and don't like.
In terms of storage, I've seen folks who do DCC pack all the "guts" of the system (power supply, command station, boosters, wireless receiver) in a plastic tote box or something similar. That way all they need to do is carry that out to the railroad, plug it in to an extension cord or nearby outlet, plug the track connections in, and they're ready to go. The tote doesn't take up much more room on the shelf of the storage shed/garage/wherever than three or four box cars.
Bottom line, go for it! It's a chunk of change at the outset, but you do get a tremendous amount of creative freedom in terms of running multiple trains, automation, etc. that you can do with the technology. Do some research on the controller side of things to find one you can live with and enjoy yourself!
Later,
K
I have a PH Transformer inside the house and feed a TE out on the patio through a a gap between double hung windows ( I can still close them). I use robust truck trailer connectors and simply unplug the small TE when I am done. I just don't trust leaving a 120v transformer out in any humidity even if it is in a container. I live in NC and the humidity levels get ridiculous and combine that with occasional 90+ temperatures.. Luckily the TE has a cooling fan.
Bruce
Nothing is more fairly distributed than common sense: no one thinks he needs more of it than he already has.
Welcome!
Ask Dan Pierce about this unit!
http://www.train-li-usa.com/store/central-station-c-83_160.html
Good luck !
Check out this Forum when you have a chance: a lot to read!
http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums
Due to condensation it is not wise to leave electronics out in all weather extremes.
However, I do leave my power supplies ( the old Aristo 27mhz system) and receivers in a weather proof cabinet outdoors and these have run for 10 years with no problem and have never been indoors. I bring in all my engines.
I am converting to DCC and my command station will be indoors as it is way too much $$ to leave outside. Remote control wireless makes it easy to use.
I don't know about DCC but I use a Aristo train engineer with a 12amp power supply. The TE is pretty simple but I can follow my trains around and I cna run 3 at once. Of course with thsi simple control when I press stop they all stop.
I don't leave my power source out but I do keep it in a easily transported tool box. I have 2 plugs one for the electricity and one for the track. I think you might be asking for trouble with leaving a expensive power source outside.
I have two power supply's one 10 amp with a teetered control and 15amp that my wife gave me. due to are location we get lots of rain in the winter so I do not leave my power supplies out then, however we get almost no rain from mid May to mid November I just cover them with a plastic bag when not in use. this has worked fine for me the past 15 years. You can get by with a 5 to ten amp unit as long as you use large wire ( 12ga ) with no less then 18ga wire for feeders spaced less then 10ft apart .
Dave
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
“Lessons Learned”
Find the largest power supply that you think you can afford squeezing by, and then buy the next size larger. I have two units in the shed that I quickly outgrew. The one that came with my starter set now powers my trolleys on an auto-reversing unit.
Tom Trigg
Hi Augie, You don't say where you are it helps if you do. You may find someone in your neighborhood will be able to help As per having a power supply out doors you will need a shed or a container that is water tight to keep it in, Massoth or the revolution are two ways of going forward. If you are going to have your locos chipped, do say that you want track power for the locos when having the work done. You will need a good 10-15 amp power supply to run more than one train at a time
Hope this helps
Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life
Hello!
I am looking to get started in the hobby of outdoor G-scale railroading, but haven't had the funds to do so until now. I am a beginner, so I'm not sure where exactly to start. I have some general ideas about the products I want to use to construct my railway, but currently my biggest question is about how to power my layout. I of course understand DC (Direct current), but I would like to be able to permanently leave my power supply outside, and run more than one train per track, with more control. I don't want to power it with RC, because I don't ever want to worry about battery life. I guess my question is, are there any other good options such as DCC out there?
Thanks in Advance,
Augie
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