Does anyone add weight to their rolling stock to help lower the center of gravity?
Thanks Joe
I do on my gondolas and some boxcars. I'm trying to figure a way to add weight to my tank cars,short of filling them with lead shot.
On the Gons I followed some directions I found on Greg Elmassien's website .You tuck the weights up under the skirt .
Don't believe everything you think!
How much weight do you add?
I do not add any weight at all to any of my rolling stock. I have found just by adding or installing metal wheels was enough to change the center gravity weight. Not all metal wheels are created the same. Some are heavier than others. For exmple LGB metal wheels are the lightest and does nothing the add weight or change the center of gravity. Metal wheels made by USA Trains Aristo and Roll EZ are heavy which are a Tr-Metal compound being made from 3 metals of Copper, Zinc and Steel. Bacnhmann wheels are not as heavy as these 3 either. I have since changed my LGB metal wheels over to Aristo metal wheels on my LGB rolling stock which made them more heavier at the lower portion and changing the center of gravity.
http://www.usatgscalegroup.com
I also replace the plastic wheel sets with metal ones, mostly USA. Any added weight should be below the center of gravity and you cannot get much lower than the wheels.
Tom Trigg
On my homemade wagons with plastic wheels I place a few ounces of sheet lead bashed into a suitable shape & fixed somewhere under the wagons.
If I use steel wheels, they seem to be enough for the weight.
I guess it depends on how long my consist will be, as I notice longer consists will tend to derail at certain places on the track. Usually explained like pulling a bit of string, it wants to go in a straight line with least resistance, the weight helps to track them on the rails.
Andrew
Sandbar & Mudcrab Railway
Metal wheels here, the lighter the car the longer the train I can have.
I have found those who have troubles with light cars is because of tight curves and truck mounted couplers.
Is it REAL? or Just 1:29 scale?
Long live Outdoor Model Railroading.
Marty Cozad Metal wheels here, the lighter the car the longer the train I can have. I have found those who have troubles with light cars is because of tight curves and truck mounted couplers.
Most people forget it;s not all about rolling resistance. There is also "Force" involved which the more a train weighs the more it wants to pull off the track on tight curves.
If you want to run long trains you should go at least 8ft diameter curves minimum. Even 10ft diameter is tight for those who want to run body mount couplers on certain length rolling stock.
I also just add metal wheel to my cars. I also follow typical railroad practice of placing the heavier cars up front and the lighter cars to the rear. I have some scratch-built boxcars that are the lightest cars on my roster. By placing them before the caboose, they do not have any issues on my railroad.
The best thing to do is use metal wheels. If you do add supplemental weight it will create drag and unless you are using ball bearing journals, you will only be able to run a very short train.
Yes, I use Aristo's metal wheels on all cars that came with plastic wheels. A Bachman's box car got blown over outside in a mild crosswind and since then everything gets converted. USA's wheels seem to be OK on their cars so they stay. I also follow the plan of the heaviest cars closest to the engine. Loads on the cars, depending on the weight, affect their position in the train. Also check the drag on your cabooses with light pick-ups, if there is a lot of rolling resistance it can create problems on the curves causing lighter cars to roll to the inside of the curve on longer trains. Using bearings on those problem cars will help.
I run my trains most of the time in this order : Aristocraft, USA trains, MDC, and Bachmann always last unless modified with loads or extra weight. And I only use metal wheels on cars that came that way. I do follow the heavy cars first rule with exception to the caboose
Dave
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
Metal wheels for several reasons including lowering the center of gravity. In addition, in many freight cars I place additional weight. I purchase small plastic artist paint containers (approximately 3/4" X 3/4" with a plastic lid) and add BB's. By doing that I can adjust the amount of weight for each car. I typically make loads for my flat cars and gondolas so I paint the containers to look like some part of the load. In addition I put double sided tape on the bottom of the weighted containers so I can remove them for tweaking the weight if needed.
I add weight to my cars since I run long trains... I run up to 55 cars and have curves at 10' diameter and a 180 degree hairpin on my layout.
I find that for 40 foot cars 4-5 pounds is good. Initially when I started running long trains my Aristo cars were derailing sooner than my USAT cars. That's when I found that often the USAT cars were 1 pound heavier.
Then I started researching weights and found that prototype weight for locomotives made sense (scale weight is computed by taking prototype weight and dividing by the cube of the scale (29 cubed in my case)
I always like to put the weight as low as possible, but most rolling stock is not so critical (exceptions, top heavy cars like the USAT car carriers)... locos, definitely try to get it low, but most of the weight is low already with motors near the rails.
Regards, Greg
Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.
Click here for Greg's web site
Greg Elmassian I add weight to my cars since I run long trains... I run up to 55 cars and have curves at 10' diameter and a 180 degree hairpin on my layout. Regards, Greg
When ver 9 of the DNRR was complete I ran 59 car train over a 210 degree curve at 9 ft diam. When I ever get ver 10 ( 30 inchs above ground level ) completed I plan on running a 69 unit train through the same 210deg curve. This Train will be more then half way around my RR .
Metal wheels are the way to go just like so many posters have suggested. I have a few cars, Bachmanns that stay outdoors and I didn't want to put costly metal wheels on them just to watch them rust so on a few of the cars I took 20 D nails and slide them in the frames underneath the car. 6 nails gave me a noticable weight advantage.
Something else besides tight curves on your layout you will need to consider grades. Flat and level is ideal for hauling long trains and even grades up to 2% are not bad but when you approach 3% your trains will be considerable shorter or you will risk damaging your gears both on the up and the down grade.
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