Using the same basic process I will be putting in a circuit to active the lights and sound for a level crossing. I have all the parts just got to find the time, a DPDT solenoid switch, 4 reed switches and lighted w/sound cross bucks. The “on” reeds will be about five feet from the crossing the “off” reeds will be about six feet from the crossing. I know there are $40~$60 modules out there that do this but my way is under $10.
Tom Trigg
I have a friend, in “N” scale, who used this process to the extreme. He uses a pair of 2P4T solenoid activated rotary switches on his double mainline. Thus he has a total of eight trains (four in each direction) in his automated sequence. He hid the sidings under a mountain. When I was stationed at Ft Leonard Wood MO. we had a multi scale club. Since we had all served in Germany everybody had a complete copy of the TEE (Trans Europa Express) in 4 scales. In a 16ft x 32 ft sectional (not exactly “modular”) traveling diorama where the TEE ran near the viewer as it moved away from the viewer it stepped down in scale from O to HO to N and then to Z. The parked trains were inside a mountain out of view. That was a showstopper every time we went to the shows in KC. Another friend uses a 4P2T switch so sounds switch between either the local saloon or the blacksmiths shop, depending on the active train. This little bit of “electronics” can be used for a vast array of visual effects. Would love to share pix of the TEE but we lost 75% of our goods in a moving van wreck.
Thanks Tom, I printed your instructions and now all I need is to get off my b__t and start working on the RR.
Dave
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
Dave:
Sorry, I left out one step in this process; it is also the hardest part. Open up one engine and reverse the wiring to the motor so that it runs the wrong direction as opposed to the others. I have thought about going back in a couple of times and installing a micro DPDT switch so the engine could run normally or reversed. Care should be taken to ensure first engine is at a full stop at the siding before starting second train; otherwise you could have a classic head-on collision.
The most time consuming part of the installation is getting the reed switches high enough to be activated by the magnets but not so high it would be hit by anything on the cars or other engines and the magnets low enough to work the reed switches and high enough to clear turnouts and such. I used 2-part automotive epoxy to build the bed for the reed switches and mounting the magnets. Total project cost: less than $20. (not including track and turnouts.)
After second train arrives at the siding several hours of unattended operation are possible.
The only problems I have encountered have been from unseen debris cloging the points.
I KISSed this one twice. The LGB manual switches are set for the “left siding”. Since they are spring loaded they allow easy passage from the “wrong” side of the points. Therefore no switching required. Each siding has a 12-inch isolated section about 20 inches from the exit turnout. The reed switches are about 40 inches before the isolated section. Magnets under the tender activate the reed switches controlling DPDT solenoid killing the power for the inbound train and activating power to the waiting train. Now both trains are running on the same power settings from the power supply. This causes the inbound train to slow down and the outbound train to slowly speed up. The sidings are long enough so that as the magnet passes over the reed, the last car of 6 is just clearing the turnout.
OPERATIONS: The eastbound backs out of the yard to the mainline. Throw the switch, apply power and wait. After eastbound arrives at the siding and is parked the westbound leaves the yard. Next task is to light the logs in the fire pit pour myself a large “ice tea” pull up a chair and enjoy. I also have two “point to point” lines for streetcars (or VERY short passenger consists) running on LGB auto-reversing units. I can have four units running all by themselves with no help from me.
NOTE: The sidings are both to the north side of the mainline. The mainline turnouts are controlled from my control station. Also an SPST switch in control panel to activate/kill power to the DPDT (positive side). This allows me to run a “special” while both “regularly scheduled” trains are parked. At times I like to run my “road gang work crews” a couple of laps while trains are parked. I have a pair of trucks (built by Vic Smith) pulling scratch built 10ft flatcars.
PARTS: 2 reed switches; 1 DPDT Solenoid switch; wiring as needed.
CONSTRUCTION: 18v AC from power supply powers Solenoid. Reed switches control the Solenoid. DC power from control panel supplies the DPDT switch of the solenoid to the isolated sections. See the very simple drawing, if I can help anymore just give a shout.
Tom do you still control the stopping and starting of each train and manually switch tracks ? I ask because I would like to do the same, but totally automatic.
I like it!
Follow the adventure - http://www.croakerdiggs.com
Glad to see I’m far from being the last of the “Analog Dinosaurs”. I have done one simple swicheroo to accommodate two trains in opposite directions. I reversed the wiring in one engine so that it runs the wrong way, as compared to the others. A simple DPDT solenoid switch activated by magnetic reed switches and a pair of LGB manual turnouts. East bound unit arrives at the passing siding hits the isolated section and waits until the west bound arrives. West bound makes a full circuit, when it arrives at the siding it trips the solenoid and east bound makes full circle. Viola! Automatic reversing animation.
Analog is fine in a one engine at a time operation. There are several options to remote control a number of trains on a single loop in analog, as described in the GR mag. With two loops on my layout and a third in development, I felt that DCC was more interesting to me. Lighting stays on, sound continues to operate and can be controlled while stopped, and engines can be individually controlled on the same loop or piece of track. I guess it just boils down to what trips your individual trigger in how you want to operate. There is no "correct" way to run, it is all about having fun.
I'm an Analog Guy, I thought about the other ways of running trains, but remembered the K.I.S.S. System and promptly forgot about anything but Analog. I'll run one train and IF I want to run another, one of them will have to sit on the siding and wait it's turn out on the tracks.
On the new layout, SWMBO want's her Fairy Land Short Line, so it will go off on a spur from the Main Line and have it's own power source . A short piece of insulated track after the switch & she can run her trains on her tracks while I run mine on the Main Line tracks or visa versa....
Railroad Crossings: Thinning the gene pool daily!
As a large scale railroader for the past 25 years I have always used analog control. not by choice but because I over purchased engine's when I started. until last year I had some that had never seen a rail head. Now that I am retired and never was in the position to buy a complete dcc system for 25 + engines I make analog control work for me. I have converted some of my passenger cars to battery operated lights, and flashing red lights in end of observation car my lights are manualy controlled. my switch's are lgb epl controlled. with a 8 position switch.
DCC pretty much comes down to operation, When used to it's full potential you can make a loco 'come alive'. The headlights will dim when stationary, number boards can stay lit, smoke units can stay on. Also there is constant power to the track so any passenger cars or a caboose with lights and smoke units can operate all the time. The lights won't dim as track power is dropped to slow the loco. Then you can get into switch control and a whole other world of possibilities.
But, if you are happy with standard DC analog control, which many people are, then yes DCC would be a waste of money.
Another thought though, if you ever get the chance to expand then your locos will be ready. You wouldn't have to pay the huge price to convert them all to DCC because they would already be done.
Terry
It's really up to the user to decide whats best, DCC's primary advantage is multi train operation on the same track. Operations and multi-cab-control when there is more than one operators working on the line. However most folks don't have Ops sessions, so the DCC issue becomes a bit more cloudy. As said above, if you have multiple features on your trains then even a single train can have benefits using DCC. But if you have a simplified layout, no or few turnouts, only own one engine with no extra's then DCC can get expensive, even switching to RC and batteries might make more sense, but if you layout is not too large and/or complicated, and is pretty much a one train at a time layout, the sticking to DC might be simplest option for many.
My own switching layout doesn't count, as its indoors, elevated (easy-peasy to wire) and is essentially a one guy operation, I can do my layout in the greatest traditions of the Atlas Model RR Co products (straight DC, track isolation blocks, manual switches, etc, KISS at its finest). It would benefit from DCC if it ever became a multi-user layout but its so small I doubt that ever happening.
Have fun with your trains
Thanks Madog - I agree and also to be fair I see the advantages of DCC. I believe i have come up with a compromise so I can have my cake and eat it too - I am installing a switch so that I can switch between DCC or analog depending on my intent that day. Shu
Biggest benefit of DCC is you always have track power available for other things other than running the engoine.
Remote switch control without running long wires.
Passenger cars with lights that stay on.
Smoke units stay on (and some decoders can program these to a lower voltage for a wisp of smoke (read idle).
Sound units can be turned on and off (my LGB Am COKE and the blue Chicken dance were made with decoders/sound units).
And when runing, sound in engines can be selected manually.
But I still have analog and digital capability as I installed a 10 amp toggle switch to swap back and forth between the 2 asa I did not want to do all my engines at once, and guests can run either type of loco.
I do not want to run my DC locos on the pseudo dc from DCC, motors can overheat when standing still.
If you only want to run one train at a time why even waste the money on decoders?? If you only run one train at a time but want remote controls than buy a Bridgewerks Magnum 1000DL transformer. These are fully remote control and yes also wireless control up to 100 ft away. You just buy one and you have remote control of any train. They feature full remote throttle and direction. I own 3 of them, one for each mainline.
Yes they are expensive around $500 each but considering what it would cost me to install decoders in the 15 locomotives I own, I think the transformer for me was a better investment.
What is really neat is how I figured out how to cross over from one mainline to the other successfully even though both are powered by 2 different transformers. Yes, my cross overs are insulated between mainlines.
http://www.usatgscalegroup.com
try checking out the latest GR nice article on what you want.
Im like you I like to keep it simple although i would like to semi auto mate my RR so i could just sit back and watch sometimes with station stops and such.
When I read about the evils of drinking I quit reading.
Not having to think about it much I made the choice a long-long time ago. I run 1 train at a time. I may have more then one ready to go, but I must stop one train then start the other. When I have two loops up and running I run 2 trains keep's things simple .
Dave (simple things for simple minds )
Hi Shu,
I've given this subject a lot of thought over the years as well and like you I will only ever run one train at a time. However saying that I can see the benefits of running two or more trains on the same track - my space does't allow for this.
When we finally settle down and buy our own place I will more than likely turn to DCC then and that is some years away yet.
For me DC is here to stay for me; I am looking at adding some battery power to one of my locos to.
Cameron
He who has the most trains wins!!
There is absolutely nothing wrong in using DC in a one engine configuration. DCC is a good choice when you want to run more than one train at the same time on the same track, but if you just run one engine, investing into DCC actually only adds to the cost.
I have a DCC system here at Croaker Diggs. I have decoders in my main engine and others and also have analog loco's. At this time I have one large continuous loop (270') and considering current prices of track, I can't see creating a second loop or adding additional track, at least for a while. I am using a Digitrax DB150 and a DT402 tethered controller. I purchased another engine yesterday and today I was looking at decoders when I stopped and asked myself a simple question.. "Why am I even doing DCC?" - I won't' have but one train on this line at a time, so why did I get away from analog? Can anyone help me with this? I have twenty years as a senior Elect tech, so the electronics does not scare me away, but it can be a very complex undertaking using DCC, programming, decoders, etc - Whats so bad about analog in a one engine configuration? Thoughts anyone?
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