making an old LGB train run

[cmotes]

Hi everyone, first time poster.

I've pulled my 25+ year old LGB train set out of storage and tried to make it run. It wont. I had a split second of movement on the track but nothing else in an hour or so of trying. Details are below:

+ I suspect the issue is the power supply as it has always been a bit dodgy. But that split second burst of movement makes me less than 100% sure. The power supply gets really hot very fast and one of the throttles never worked. If it's helpful, I included photos of the power supply below:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cmotes/7586365220/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cmotes/7586369662/

+ I've checked each piece of track and I think that each bit is connected to the next bit properly. I see no visible rust on any of the track pieces, so if tight connection between each piece of track matters, I have that covered.

+ The parts that connect the wires from the power supply into the track appear to be connected properly with no rust or grime inhibiting the connection. I've taken them off and reattached them to other track parts to no avail.

I'm looking for guidance on what to do to get this thing running again so that my son can love it just as I did. Should I replace the power supply... or something else? Or is this post comically deficient of info to hypothesize on a diagnosis?

If you think that replacing something is the best move, can you recommend something to replace it with as I'm less than layman on this stuff.

Thank you for reading!!

-Chris

[Stourbridge Lion]

Chris - Welcome to trains.com!

[two tone]

Hi Chris  to the forum    A few thuings chris   1 unit may be duff    2 if you show where you are based there may be some one who can help they may have a small unit they could lend you to test loco  If you have a multi meter you can see if moter has a short  or try ebay for a basic power supply,      As you can see im in the UK      Hope this helps you

[cmotes]

Thank you. The train is in a remote part of Idaho, so borrowing a power supply might be off the table. 

 

If I were to make the leap and buy a new power supply... what would i get?

 

This via Amazon? http://www.amazon.com/LGB-Control-G-Scale-Box/dp/B000AXFRX2/

 

[Dick Friedman]

You could have any of several problems: dirty track, dirty wheels, bad connectons between the track sections, or bad power supply.

First, get a 12volt light bulb (like used in automobile interior lights) and hook it to the power supply.  Turn the power up a little after connecting the bulb to the track feeds.  If it lights, the supply should provide enough voltage to at least run the engine a little.  Then the problem may be dirty track.  attach the bulb to the track and try it again.  If it lights (again), the problem may be dirty wheels.  Clean them and try again.  If still nothing, you may have a problem with the engine motor.  Notice if the headlight comes on.  That may indicate the motor is bad but the connection to the light is working.

 

Keep us informed.

[cacole]

I hope you realize that you should not connect the power pack's AC output to the track.

Those old Troller power supplies are well known among smaller gauge modelers as being very unreliable.  Since you said that it gets very hot very quickly, I suspect that the old-fashioned dry selenium rectifier stack that was used in those days has shorted out, which is a very common problem with long-term storage.  Over the years, our club has been given several of these power supplies, and none of them were functional.

The Troller company has been out of business for many years and there is nothing inside that pack that can be salvaged, the technology is so old. 

Personally, I would consider it a fire hazard and get rid of it.  

If you know anyone in your immediate area who is into model railroading in any scale, ask if you can borrow a DC power pack to test run the locomotive and determine if the problem is really with the Troller or the loco.  Also clean the track and wheels as best you can before trying to run it again, but don't use sandpaper -- something such as rubbing alcohol and a rag are much better.

Do you have a spare car battery and jumper cables?  You could use that to see if the loco runs and is worth keeping by connecting the positive battery terminal to one rail and momentarily touching the negative terminal to the other rail..

Good luck.

[cmotes]

Thank you all for the responses. I will clean the track and wheels. I'm also going to get a new power supply - can someone point me to a link to a power supply that will work? Is the amazon link I posted above workable?

[cacole]

cmotes

Is the amazon link I posted above workable?

The item shown in the Amazon link is not a power pack; it is a control box for throwing electric motors on turnouts (track switches).  

If the locomotive can be made to run by cleaning and lubricating, a Bridgewerks, Aristocraft, or similar power supply would be okay.

A good place to start checking for a power pack is RLD Hobbies.  The link to his web site is http://www.rldhobbies.com

Once you get to his home page, scroll down the left index column to POWER SUPPLIES and click on it.  If the one LGB locomotive you have is the only one you intend to run, the AristoCraft 1.8 Amp power pack shown here would probably be sufficient, though I don't know what the 'chip' referred to in the ad means.  Hopefully someone who knows more about it will chime in.

.http://rldhobbies.com/powerpack18ampwchip.aspx 

 

 

 

[vsmith]

LGB basic power pack #50081 is pretty common on Ebay, you should be able to pick one up inexpensively, that will give you a good starter/test powerpack and I would run some very fine grit sandpaper (440 grit) over the rail tops to clean it. I actually use a foam sanding block.  Brass track gets oxidized over time, LGB engines have skate pick ups as well as wheel pickups so dirty wheels are not such an issue unlike other brands.

[Dick Friedman]

Rather than using sand paper of any grit, I'd use scotch-brite red or green pads.  They won't put tiny scratches in the rail, which then offer more surfaces to corrode.  While I'm at it, I'd add a drop or two of Dexron III automatic transmission fluid to the rail and rub it in.

I'm still suspecting a combination of dirty track and dirty wheel/pickups though.  Power packs, especially LGB, have always seemed pretty bullet-proof!

[vsmith]

Agree with the Scotchbrit pads, they are a better choice, forgot about them. Drywall or finishing sandpaper (440 grit) works if you can't get a scotchbrit pad, its not much grit so it doesnt scratch up the surface. I should have added I'm indoors so I dont worry too much about weather corrosion.