Just as an aside, many Missabe Road three-window wood cabooses were created by the railroad putting together two two-window bobber cabooses, just as you want to do. The state of Minnesota passed a law c.1911 saying after a certain date all railroad cabooses had to be at least 24' long and have at least two two-axle trucks.
Thank you for this Greg, very much appreciated.
Regards Andrew
Sandbar & Mudcrab Railway
P.S. thanks also for the tips on your site!
Found the article:
The Bobber caboose is a very attractive small caboose. It's proportions work well in its scale of 22.5. It also has body mount couplers, which help to make it more prototypical. But it can be improved. It doesn't negotiate the tightest turns as well as it should. First impressions are that it was made to be converted into a two-truck configuration; there is a circular boss in the frame, which looks ideal, but is wrong. Adapting The Caboose Remove the brown body from the frame. Turn over the caboose and look for the brown clip ends sticking through the black frame. Pull two of the clips at the same end of the car at the same time and separate the body from the frame. The ladders will go with the body, if not, remove them from the frame and press them back into the body. The handrails and brake wheel will stay with the frame. Remove the wheels from the car frame. The wheels are fitted into spring steel carriers behind the plastic journals. Spread the steel carrier and remove the wheel/axle assembly. Repeat for the other axle. From the top of the frame remove the four screws holding the steel carriers and remove the carriers (add to parts bin). Clear the frame of the unneeded pieces and parts. With a razor saw (or Dremel tool) carefully remove the brace between the two journals (looks like a ladder on its side) on both sides. Laying the razor saw on its side, on the frame horizontally, cut the journals from the frame. Also cut away the brake shoes. Clean up the remainder of the wheel journal carrier. On each side of the frame are two semi-circular arcs that are the remains of the tops of the journal carrier. These need to be removed to leave a flat-sided frame. The razor saw is used very carefully to saw the excess away. What remains is then sanded down, so that no trace of the contour remains. Sand any other cut areas to smooth things out. Square off the steps on each corner. Each set of steps has a "fat" brace, which must be reduced to allow the trucks to swing without obstruction. This "fat" brace is on the back of each step towards the center of the car. Simply cut this back side off to equal the support on the outside of the car. Again sand or file to smooth things out. Construct the bolsters. I used a Plastruct I-Beam 1/4" X 1/2" cut to a length of 2 5/8". This fits between the side frames resting on the center beam for the proper height the edges of the side frame are level with the new bolster. Locate the bolster over the crossbeam near the circular boss, centered on the crossbeam (or 2 5/16" from the inside of the end bolster on the frame). When this is squared up apply the CA adhesive. Next cut a Plastruct square tube 3/8" X 1/4" one inch long. Determine the center of the I-Beam by measuring 1 13/32" from each side frame and mark both measurements (the center of these two marks is center) Next determine the center of the Plastruct tube in the same manner using 1/2". Press the square tube into the I-Beam aligning the center marks. To make the tube fit as snuggly as possible might require a little sanding on the 1/4" sides of the tube. When the tube is snug and the marks aligned apply the CA adhesive. Make the center post. Next the center of the bolster MUST be determined, both from the marks made earlier and from the centerline side to side through the square tube. When this is ascertained drill a small pilot hole perpendicular to the bolster. I used a round 1/4" Plastruct tube with a 1/16" center (this may be constructed using two tubes, one glued inside the other). Make two tubes about one inch long. Enlarge the pilot hole in the bolster until this 1/4" truck tube is a snug fit. Double check that the truck tube is perpendicular to the bolster, apply the CA. To remain consistent with Bachmann convention cut the tube to an exposed length of 5/32", then enlarge the mounting hole in the trucks to 1/4". To fasten the trucks use a screw with a head larger than 1/4" or use an appropriate washer. Or - The trucks are delivered with 1/8" mounting hole. If you prefer, the truck tube could be cut flush with the bolster and the trucks mounted with a screw large enough to locate the trucks with a head greater than 1/8". Trial fit the trucks for clearance and fit; the trucks should not touch any of the steps and you should be able to tighten the trucks down too much. Back the screw off to allow free movement. Remove the trucks, and make any corrections necessary. Painting. After the CA has dried sufficiently, it is time to paint. Remove the couplers. I spray painted the entire frame several times, inspecting after each coat to see if the marks made in this modification disappeared. The bolster and side frames could be brush painted just as well as sprayed. Refit the body. After the paint is dry refit the body to the frame and finally attach the trucks to the frame making sure that they turn free on the bolster post. Refit the car's couplers. Attach to your train, Happy Railroading!!!! Barry's Big Trains P.O. Box 93934 Las Vegas, NV 89193-3934 PH/FX (702) 260-9111 Barry@BarrysBigTrains.com
The Bobber caboose is a very attractive small caboose. It's proportions work well in its scale of 22.5. It also has body mount couplers, which help to make it more prototypical. But it can be improved. It doesn't negotiate the tightest turns as well as it should. First impressions are that it was made to be converted into a two-truck configuration; there is a circular boss in the frame, which looks ideal, but is wrong.
Adapting The Caboose
Remove the brown body from the frame. Turn over the caboose and look for the brown clip ends sticking through the black frame. Pull two of the clips at the same end of the car at the same time and separate the body from the frame. The ladders will go with the body, if not, remove them from the frame and press them back into the body. The handrails and brake wheel will stay with the frame.
Remove the wheels from the car frame. The wheels are fitted into spring steel carriers behind the plastic journals. Spread the steel carrier and remove the wheel/axle assembly. Repeat for the other axle. From the top of the frame remove the four screws holding the steel carriers and remove the carriers (add to parts bin).
Clear the frame of the unneeded pieces and parts. With a razor saw (or Dremel tool) carefully remove the brace between the two journals (looks like a ladder on its side) on both sides. Laying the razor saw on its side, on the frame horizontally, cut the journals from the frame. Also cut away the brake shoes.
Clean up the remainder of the wheel journal carrier. On each side of the frame are two semi-circular arcs that are the remains of the tops of the journal carrier. These need to be removed to leave a flat-sided frame. The razor saw is used very carefully to saw the excess away. What remains is then sanded down, so that no trace of the contour remains. Sand any other cut areas to smooth things out.
Square off the steps on each corner. Each set of steps has a "fat" brace, which must be reduced to allow the trucks to swing without obstruction. This "fat" brace is on the back of each step towards the center of the car. Simply cut this back side off to equal the support on the outside of the car. Again sand or file to smooth things out.
Construct the bolsters. I used a Plastruct I-Beam 1/4" X 1/2" cut to a length of 2 5/8". This fits between the side frames resting on the center beam for the proper height the edges of the side frame are level with the new bolster. Locate the bolster over the crossbeam near the circular boss, centered on the crossbeam (or 2 5/16" from the inside of the end bolster on the frame). When this is squared up apply the CA adhesive. Next cut a Plastruct square tube 3/8" X 1/4" one inch long. Determine the center of the I-Beam by measuring 1 13/32" from each side frame and mark both measurements (the center of these two marks is center) Next determine the center of the Plastruct tube in the same manner using 1/2". Press the square tube into the I-Beam aligning the center marks. To make the tube fit as snuggly as possible might require a little sanding on the 1/4" sides of the tube. When the tube is snug and the marks aligned apply the CA adhesive.
Make the center post. Next the center of the bolster MUST be determined, both from the marks made earlier and from the centerline side to side through the square tube. When this is ascertained drill a small pilot hole perpendicular to the bolster. I used a round 1/4" Plastruct tube with a 1/16" center (this may be constructed using two tubes, one glued inside the other). Make two tubes about one inch long. Enlarge the pilot hole in the bolster until this 1/4" truck tube is a snug fit. Double check that the truck tube is perpendicular to the bolster, apply the CA. To remain consistent with Bachmann convention cut the tube to an exposed length of 5/32", then enlarge the mounting hole in the trucks to 1/4". To fasten the trucks use a screw with a head larger than 1/4" or use an appropriate washer. Or - The trucks are delivered with 1/8" mounting hole. If you prefer, the truck tube could be cut flush with the bolster and the trucks mounted with a screw large enough to locate the trucks with a head greater than 1/8". Trial fit the trucks for clearance and fit; the trucks should not touch any of the steps and you should be able to tighten the trucks down too much. Back the screw off to allow free movement. Remove the trucks, and make any corrections necessary.
Painting. After the CA has dried sufficiently, it is time to paint. Remove the couplers. I spray painted the entire frame several times, inspecting after each coat to see if the marks made in this modification disappeared. The bolster and side frames could be brush painted just as well as sprayed.
Refit the body. After the paint is dry refit the body to the frame and finally attach the trucks to the frame making sure that they turn free on the bolster post. Refit the car's couplers.
Attach to your train, Happy Railroading!!!!
Barry's Big Trains P.O. Box 93934 Las Vegas, NV 89193-3934 PH/FX (702) 260-9111 Barry@BarrysBigTrains.com
Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.
Click here for Greg's web site
Thanks for the reply Mick, I guess I will work something out. It would make it easier with explanations and a few photos from the former site.
With all the information that is available, we seem to lose a lot when a site closes down & we have to reinvent the wheel to get back to where we were. It says a lot for printing out information and keeping it in a book for reference.
I notice that the LGB shorty passenger carriages are close to what is needed. When I first started in Garden railways I had a LGB starter set. I wore the loco out & I don't use the passenger cars now.
If I remove the top of the caboose and sit it onto the chassis of the shorty it can be made to fit with a bit of side overhang.
Steps and handrails on one end only of the shorty have to be removed to fit the length of the topside of the caboose. Or remove both end steps and make handrails from bronze welding wire.
Hi Andrew
The only article on Barry's Big Trains I remember was for the Bachmann 2 axle caboose and sorry I did not keep a copy although I did do the conversion on a Bachmann caboose.
Mick
I am wanting to convert a 2 axle Aristo caboose to a 4 axle unit. Barry's Big Trains had an article about this conversion, but the site is now showing up as spam.
Has anyone have a copy of the article? Or even a "how to"
Andrew
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