Thanks for the reply, I was beginning to wonder if anyone was able to help. I had a look at your utube of Winnegance and Quebec Railway bridges and enjoyed it very much. I also had a look at the planking and will give it a try.
Thanks again
Andrew
Sandbar & Mudcrab Railway
I have some planking in my covered bridges which serves as a re-railer at least a pretty good one. the goal is to lift the wheels up to rail height then push the inside wheel flange back into place by narrowing the flangeway.
you need:
a ramp outside the rails and--
a ramp inside the rails that the wheel flanges will ride up so that the wheel tread is above the rail head. this ramp need only be located farther from the rail than the normal flangeway.
after both these ramps you need an angled piece to force the inside wheel over onto the rail
they can be made of wood or plastic which ever you prefer working with
Winnegance and Quebec Railway
Eric Schade Gen'l Manager
As I am modifying my layout, I was wondering if anyone has any drawings or plans to make small rerailers to fit into the Code 250 track.
I already have the Aristo rerailer, but I am after a small rerailer to fit in the track at hard to reach places.
As there will be a lot of switches, etc, I was hoping to have the rerailer work only one direction only, as the train exits the switches. So only half a rerailer is reqiured. This is not to be placed on the main line to work in either direction as Aristocraft rerailer.
With sound units in the locos now, as well as being outdoors, it becomes hard to hear the "clunking" of wheels hitting the ties, or even being able to see all the track, so Aristo rerailers stay outdoors with adjustments made to mate 250 to larger height track.
I am wanting to make indoor rerailers for a tight layout, while running mainly 0-4-0's.
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