Structure building class 101

[toenailridgesl]

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Added Monday Aug 23rd 2004
For those of you who didn't see the plan on the other thread, here it is:
Clicking on the images enlarges them

Or go here: http://www.trainweb.org/toenailridge/gr/gr1.jpg
and print it out

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Saturday, 21 August 2004
OK gents,
first thing we are going to do is think outside of the square.
Garden railway buildings have traditionally been made from wood if scratch-building, but for a number of years I've been making my structures using a plastic cardboard called Korflute in Australia and Corplast in the USA. I did a Google search and see that it is readily available in the US, particularly from sign makers.

Corblast is the board that real estate agents make their For Sale signs from & is used extensively in advertising. A couple of my buildings have been outside in all weathers for 4+ years with no loss of structural integrity.
Corblast comes in two common sizes 3mm & 5mm. This is the size of the little squares that the stuff is made of.

I prefer using the 3mm as it represents lapboard of about 2.5 inches in 1:20.3, the 5mm stuff gives a board width of 4 inches. However, either is fine. Corblast takes normal household paints too, especially the acrylics which give an excellent flat finish.


First job is to find yourself some Corblast, we'll need about a square yard. I buy it in 8 X 4 sheets for under A$20, although my supply of 3mm sheet is all from real estate agents discards. (which means it's free!!)

Using the rough drawing and a pencil, steel rule and small mechanics square, lay out the plan directly onto the board, making sure that the lapboards run sideways and not vertically.



Using a good hobby knife, cut along your lines. You'll note that cutting with the channels is super easy and in fact stops you from wandering from your guide lines.

Cutting across the grain, however, is a bit of a pain. Might be a good idea to practice a little on a scrap piece.

And we end up with this:

OK, that'll do for a start. We're going to be building just the front of the building initially, including window framing, doors, trim etc. Then we'll tackle the sides and back. That way you can show off your handiwork as a false-front building while the rest is being built.

[toenailridgesl]

Next job is the windows.
I frame my windows using 1mm balsa. Before you scream "BALSA! OUTSIDE!?!" I need to tell you that I have had painted balsa survive outside in all weathers longer than cedar has. The trick is 'painted'.
I cut my own trim from balsa sheet, to a width of 4 scale inches or about 5mm:


This is then cut to size and glued around the window cutouts. I prefer to glue the top & bottom pieces first and then sides.

Choice of glue is up to you, I use an Australian general purpose household glue called "Tarzan's Grip" which is acetone based.

With the inner frames of the window & door cutouts trimmed, next step is the outer trim

...again using 1mm balsa with 3mm (1/8th" square) balsa sills.
Note in the last pic that I added an extra piece to the top of the door frame which is for the transom.

With the windows & door trimmed the store front looks like this:

Then the top capping. I glued a piece of 3mm square balsa into the groove on the top of the Corplast, then overlaid that with 1mm balsa front and capping piece...


So far we now have this:

[toenailridgesl]

Note: for some reason the image enlarging feature in this forum doesn't work for pix taken in the vertical format so I have had to add the direct links to the photos if you want enlarged versions.
On with the class:
Have made up the doors

(for enlarged pic, click on this link: http://www.trainweb.org/lgbofozclub/store/doors.jpg)
These doors are actually one piece of balsa sheet, scribed to look like individual vertical boards, then overlaid with 1/32nd" aircraft plywood for the frames.
Added the window mullions (isn't that an interesting word? Wonder where it came from....)

(for enlarged pic, click on this link: http://www.trainweb.org/lgbofozclub/store/window2.jpg )
These are made from 3mm square balsa for the vertical pieces and 3mm square split down the middle for the horizontal inserts

(for enlarged pic, click on this link: http://www.trainweb.org/lgbofozclub/store/window.jpg )
So far we're up to here:

(for enlarged pic, click on this link: http://www.trainweb.org/lgbofozclub/store/front.jpg )

[Anonymous]

Hey Phil, around here in Ohio mullions refers to the wood or metal that joins to windows together. Like if you buy two double hung windows and want to have them side by side with no framing between them you mull them together. The otherthings that divide the panes of glass are either called mutton bars or just simply grids, funny it depends on the window manufacture.

For a Real Answer ask Vsmith he's and architech... Vic you out there?

http://www.schillinglumber.com/windowterms.html according to this muntins is the correct spelling, here I've been spelling it wrong for years! Interesting site.

[Anonymous]

Hi Phil,

Question: What is the measurement for the top of the door and windows and the single window at the top of the wall? Plus did you mention what the length of the two windows and door is?

I assume that the door is centered on the wall and the windows are spaced evenly between the door.

Thanks

Rick R.

[toenailridgesl]

Rick, allow 1 scale foot between sides & windows & windows & door each side.
Distance from top of door transom to bottom of upstairs window is 7 scale feet.
Height from bottom to top of transom is 8 scale feet.
Bear in mind, this is a scratch-building exercise. Near enough is good enough. You don't have to make a carbon copy of my building, just so long as you find the methods & techniques useful. I have selectively compressed the width of the building to fit my particular requirements, if you want to make it 20 or 30 ft wide, do it. The aim of this exercise is to show some of the easy ways to make what YOU want.

[vsmith]

Hey Matt
Technically the Mullion is the vertical member of the windows framing, the top and bottom members of the frame are called Rails, the Sash is the basic unit of the widow, IOW the two operable pieces of say a double hung window would be called the Sash's. The other small vertical and horizontal members that seperate the individual glass panes are muntins, and where peices of wood are used to hold the glass in are called the Stile's.


Phil, RE Corblast / Korflute, Here in the US, Precision Products, a Plastics Co, has a styrene product called Perfect Panels that looks like the same thing.

[Anonymous]

Phil,

I must leave the forums for a week. I have no laptop but will print this out and take my tools with me. We will see.
Leased I can be inspired and I hope I can inspire.

[Anonymous]

See What I tell you ask the architect and get an answer, just like at work![:D]

Thank Vic!

[Kiwi Down Under]

Phill
Thanks, cant wait for the next step.
Neighbours are still wondering where their for sale sign has gone, so the quiker we get to the paint stage the safer i will be.

[toenailridgesl]

Have made a start on the canopy. I used balsa again & made the canopy the full width of the fascia and scale 6'8" deep. (Because that was the width of balsa I happened to have handy.) Initially glued strips to the underside to form the side strengtheners. The sloped end pieces are glued to these.


and then added rafters and end pieces


In the meantime the paint was drying on the fascia...

If the picture won't enlarge by clicking on it, see the full sized version here: http://www.trainweb.org/lgbofozclub/store/fasciapainted2.jpg
I've chosen not to document the painting as 1) it's self-evident & 2) we all have our own choice of colour combination.
For the record, however, I sprayed my fascia with grey primer front & back, then painted the window, door & capping with green enamel.


full sized version here: http://www.trainweb.org/lgbofozclub/store/fasciapainted.jpg
The door trim was painted with acrylic tan

When the canopy was dry I test-fitted it to the fascia.


Don't glue the canopy in place yet though as it will get in the way when it comes to adding signs etc. Also we'll need to have the front wall lying on its face when it comes time to add the side-wall supports.

[Anonymous]

Thanks, this is a Godsend, I'm getting ready to start a "post office" and your images (namely the plans for the fascade) have saved me time in "reinventing the wheel." I'm going to build a sort of "down town" area to be placed behind my station at my "Two Trees, Texas station." It will start with a post office, hotel, general store and hardware store on one side of the street and a Bank, city hall, and officer building on the other. For my railroad structures I have a large warehouse, a small trackside office for a produce company and a train station for passengers and less-than-car-load issues.

Let me let you in on my major flaw...making gabled roofs. I've got that basic structure of a roof, I've used it on several of my strutures (of which I have three), but I have failed to produce those gabled roofs. Please help me with this.

Thanks,
Capt Joe Ely Carrales, CAP

[toenailridgesl]

Time to add the braces which will support the side walls, roof & upstairs floor.
The side walls are 15 scale ft high, 225mm in 1:20.3. Mark this distance on the back of the front wall with a pencil.
Measure and mark the centre of the top edge of the front. Mark down 1 scale foot and draw lines from this central top point to the two marks on the sides. This gives you the pitch of the roof.
I used scrap pieces of wood and glued bracing along these lines to eventually support the roof. Also glued wood pieces up each side to butt the side walls against.

Take care to leave about a scale foot or so at the bottom of these side pieces, we need to leave room for the base to fit. Also make sure that they don't go all the way up to the roof brace marks. You'll note that I have also added an horizontal brace to eventually support the upstairs floor. The top of this floor brace is a scale 12ft 180mm from the bottom. When the base is added this will give an approximate ceiling height downstairs of 10ft and upstairs 8.5ft. Pretty close to real clearances
Be sure when you are adding the side pieces to leave a gap sufficient for the side wall to butt INSIDE the front wall. This joint will eventually have a trim piece covering it but by butting this joint this way we have a larger, therefore stronger area to glue to.

[Anonymous]

Phil, got to say this is really exciting learning to build scale structures, my "job" hasn't excited me this much in a long time. Especially enjoyed the window building part of it.[:D]

[Karl Reichenbach]

Phil,
This is great, and at a perfect time. I have just finished my track work and am now ready for buildings. I never thought of using this material for buildings outside. I have not started building yet, will wait until you have completed the class so I can read and re read and absorb all of your great information.. From what I have seen so far I am pretty sure you will anwser all of my questions without me haveing to ask them.

Thanks for this great information.

Karl Reichenbach

[toenailridgesl]

Have done some more on the canopy.
First cut some strips of wet&dry black sandpaper into 1 inch widths

then glued them to the top of the canopy

being careful to weigh them heavily while the glue set

Note that I left a little overlap at the front

and more of an overlap at the back, this flap will be glued to the front of the building to seal the joint where the canopy attaches

Have set the canopy in place temporarily to show progress so far

[jmozz]

Phil i'am having trougle finding this plastic can any one help jmozz

[toenailridgesl]

John, I did a Google search, found this place:
A&S Moving Supplies And Packing Services, Inc., Long Island City, NY
34-18 Northern Boulevard
Long Island City
NY
11101



Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]

Also ask your local realtor for some of his old signs

http://www.aandsmovingsupplies.com

[Anonymous]

Hi Phil
Only an observer on this one too much to catch up on.
Is there a limit to how large you can go with this matierial.
It would work with the small structures I need but could you build
City Central Station out of it?
regards John

[toenailridgesl]

John, I've built a brewery that was nearly 3 ft long, a barn that was over 2ft high. If you brace it well enough inside and use a decent glue I think the sky is the limit. Would love to see someone do the Empire State ! :D
This is in fact the smallest Korflute building I've made, the others are all either higher, wider or deeper.

[Anonymous]

Hi Phil,

Nice topic, I am following it with interest:: I am also a member of 'MyLargescale.com' and in thier forums I have almost finished a large 3 x 2 x 2ft building built almost all in plastic (wood roof and width bracing is the only wood used).

At the corners could I suggest that you rebate the front & back by cutting off the flutes and rear face of the walls, leaving the front face. Into this rebate goes the side wall - and the bracing as you use the inside - this gives you closed flutes all round, and the corner is capped with plastic angle or two flat pieces to make the angle to replicate the corner trim which is the same as the window trim. .

I use a latex based epoxy glue for sticking the Korflue together (Evo-stick) which dries with some residual flexibility. (I can buy new sheet from the sign makers for the house salet signs at £1.00 per square foot, 5mm thick).

If you can find any there is now (here in the UK) some hollow PVC planking (siding) available; this has about 3 or 4 internal cross pieces and can be used for bracing/stiffening. The general thickness is 1/2mm and it cuts quite easily with either a knife or small circular saw.


Yours Peter Bunce

[toenailridgesl]

"At the corners could I suggest that you rebate the front & back by cutting off the flutes and rear face of the walls, leaving the front face. Into this rebate goes the side wall - and the bracing as you use the inside -"
Thanks Peter. I have used this method regularly on my own buildings but this is basically a beginners class and butt-jointing is easy, obvious & strong.
Hasten slowly :D

[Anonymous]

Hi Phil
Have a look at page 30 of ARM August 2004
Sidmouth general store false front that and it could be the smallest you have built its only 10' x10' and
If I ever get to it is what I am thinking about please keep your eye open for other non RR structures of this sort of size
Forget the empire state building I would like to see one of those victorian era
masive definatly makes a statement station buildings.
Back to topic in hand what glues are you using for the building i note a variaty of materials in the structure
regards John

[toenailridgesl]

John, I'm using primarily Tarzans Grip for all glueing but will be using Selleys contact cement when it comes to joining the walls. The roof sandpaper is waterproof carpenters glue.
Will check out ARM too

[toenailridgesl]

OK, on to the back wall. Draw up the outline onto your Corblast sheet, same width as the front wall (14ft 210mm). The side walls are 15ft 225mm high so mark up to that height. Overall height to the roof peak is 21'6" 322.5mm so measure up to that along one side, then measure in 7ft 105mm to find the centre of the sheet. From this central point you can connect down to the 15ft marks, giving us our gable outline.

Then cut it out

Lay out where you want doors & windows. I have chosen to make the same size upstairs window, ie 4.5 X 2ft, 67.5 X 30mm centred at the same height as on the front wall.
I added a doorway to the bottom left corner, height 6.5 X 3ft 97.5 X 45mm

I've chosen to do the door trim differently to show that there are other methods. Use the same method as on the front wall to do the inner trim on the door & window, then we add the outer trim but this time using mitred corners.

The mitre is cut at 45° & the easist way to cut that angle is to use your mechanics square. A picture is worth 1000 words so here it is:

This gives a very prototypical and smooth fini***o both the door & the window


Final step today is adding the same bracing as on the front wall, again leaving a gap to butt the side wall to. Note I have also added the floor support brace.

[Anonymous]

Hi Phil,

Where is the metric measurements??

I don't think it makes a difference but I am using Coroplast that is 4mm thick and I got some Starbilo pencils at a Arts and Craft store, they wipe off with water when done with the marks.

Rick R.

[Anonymous]

Hi Rrowan
Suggest you take another look at the dimentions[:)]
Unless Phil is 600 feet tall and bullet proof that wall is not 14 feet wide.
Phil has given the full size measurment as he works in 1 to 20.3 I work in 1 to19
others work in 1 to24, 1 to 29 and so on.
You will have to work your own dimentions out ie 14 x16 =224 so for me to build it the wall is 224mm wide which will more than likely be too big for you.
Phil is trying to run the project so every one can build it not just those working in 1 to 20.3
hence giving real measurments which for that building would be feet and inches.
Sorry if I am stating the obviouse to the knowledgable but not all are blessed with that knowledge.
regards John
.

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jmozz

Phil i'am having trougle finding this plastic can any one help jmozz

J

Precision Products sells a styrene foamcore sheet product called Perfic Panels that should be a good substitute, I know they have them at San-Val cause I've seen them there. they come in 18 x18 inch sheets and are 3/16 thick if my memory serves me.

Do a websearch for Precision Products under Dollhouse Suppliers and you should be able to find a closer vendor.


www.appliedimaginationinc.com/precision_products/

[Anonymous]

Hi John Busby

Since Phil did start with metric measurements and I need to practice with it on my new metric ruler. I was hoping for continue use of the numbers. Besides I was just messing with him. I/we do chat on MLS Chat once in a while.

Cheers

Rick R.

[toenailridgesl]

Gentlemen,
following particularly pointed prompting from picky pedantic persons I have edited the above section to include metric measurements in 1:20.3 scale. It is to be hoped that the particular pedantic person doesn't introduce this forum to his alterego ER or we will all be in considerable depths of excreta.

G'day Rick! Glad you could join us!