DCC or Not for a new layout

[M.D.YOUNG]

I am just starting in G scale.  I recently purchased a USA SD 70.   I  am starting to plan to make a layout outside this summer and have run across some delimeas.  I was informed that MTH trains have their own system, then there is DCC and just plain powerpak.  I like the thought of running several diesels at once and at different speeds and such.  I have tried to find articles to address starting a railroad with pro and cons to the power system but not found what I really need.  IS there some feedback from people out there as to a really good system that would work for outdoor G scale that also allows for A Dcc system without huge monetary investments?  I looked at Digitrax in the pass for N scale but not for sure it will work with G scale and the power it needs.  I want a system to power some accessories and rolling stock lighting as well.  Can anyone recommend a good DCC system for a beginner that is easy to operate and is easy to have decoders installed?   I thought about the MTH but I really like bigger and the MTH is smaller with less of a selection to chose from vs USA trains And Acristo-craft engine options.  I am just really stuck on this one right now and need some clear advise to move forward with a desision.

[Anonymous]

A regular DC power pack lets you control the track power, whereas DCC allows you to control your loco, putting you into the engineer´s  seat. In a nutshell, this is about the basic difference.

I am afraid there is no cheap solution for DCC in a garden layout. Those G scale locos draw a lot more amps than their HO or N scale counterparts. Aside from MTH´s DCS and Marklin´s LGB system, there are Massoth and Zimo, but both are no El Cheapos.

Massoth

Zimo

 

[Greg Elmassian]

There are several inexpensive DCC systems, CVP makes one. Piko markets a "dumbed down" version of Massoth. But, I submit you are focusing on the wrong thing.

How many locomotives are you going to have? If the answer is 5 or 6 or more, then DCC wins price wise compared to any other remote control technology due to the lower price per loco, especially if you want sound.

You need to look at the total investment, and many people forget that if you have about $100 less per loco installation, then with 6 locos, that pays for your $600 DCC system like an NCE.

Look at the big picture and it will help.

How many locos will you have, and how many will you run at the same time?

You might also want to read the Beginners FAQs on my site.

Regards, Greg

[ztribob]

DCC is fine for garden railroads.  I have a Digitrax DCS 200 8amp system and it works, but if you want to run several trains at the same time you either will need some boosters or a larger system.  NCE has a 10amp system which would do better.  But like Greg said, you need to decide what you want to do (what kind of trains and how many you want to run).  If you already have a Digitrax system I would suggest trying it out with your graden railroad and see how well it works for you.  Even if all you have is a Zephyr it will work with short trains with one or two engines.  I ran my railroad for sometime with only a Zephyr and one or two locos with a couple of cars behind each. 

Bob

 

[simisal]

I use MRC on my HO layout inside and I also use MRC outside for my G scale. I also use the wireless so that I can walk around and control the train at the same time. MRC has a 8 amp booster that I use outside. I usually only run either 1 or 2 trains at the same time so no problem there. I know digitrax is more popular with some but I  like MRC and its both cheaper and easier to use.

Good luck on what ever you decide.

Chuck

 

[cabbage]

Personally I would say that you do not install DCC until you have your layout running. It may be 1 to 2 years before you have your layout running to your satisfaction. Then, once you have ironed out the curves and cambers to ensure smooth running, install your remote control system.  

You may even find that you do not need one at all...

regards

ralph

[kstrong]

cabbage

...Then, once you have ironed out the curves and cambers to ensure smooth running, install your remote control system.

Ironing out the "curves and cambers to ensure smooth running" is an annual chore, though. It's not something you "get right," then it's set forever. Mine shifts over the season, requiring fairly regular tweaking here and there. I'm not sure what you gain by waiting.

From my standpoint, there's nothing wrong with choosing how you're going to power your railroad prior to building it, as there are numerous design, material, and cost considerations that can be affected by that choice. Why spend money or time doing work or buying stuff that's going to be rendered moot in a year's time?

Alas, for the original poster, I don't think there's an "inexpensive" DCC system for large scale. But look at it another way--"analog DC" power isn't necessarily cheap, either, especially when you're looking to run multiple locos with power for lights and smoke as well. Compare a quality DCC system with a good Bridgewerks 2-train controller, and you'll find very little difference in price.

For my money, if I were to run track power in a heavy-use environment (multiple locos, etc.) I'd just do DCC from the start. One or two locos running independently can be done "on the cheap" with analog DC, but once you go beyond that, your costs go up tremendously, and the functionality in exchange for that increase in cost doesn't match the cost increase.

Later,

K

[pegleg587]

[cacole]

Problem is, M.D. Young did not fill out any user profile to indicate where he is located.

Where I live in Arizona, the soil is so hard, with a lot of caliche, you need a trenching machine to bury electrical wiring to a layout, so I decided before I had even purchased a locomotive that it would be battery powered.  There is no electricity connected to my track anywhere.

Another factor is, what type of track layout is intended.  If it is going to have reverse loops, crossovers, or wyes, electrical wiring becomes much more complicated due to the necessity for polarity toggle switches or DCC auto-reversers.  Battery power eliminates the need for any of this additional wiring or devices.

Ultimately, I chose the CVP AirWire 900 system, and haven't regretted my choice.

But the terms "G-scale" and "cheap DCC system" don't work too well together.  

[Greg Elmassian]

Yep, just like the words "cheap battery power" and more than 6 locos fitted with batteries...

I just don't recommend inexpensive DCC systems, because they are limited, and it's my opinion that if you are going DCC, then you are running a number of locos, and definitely more than one on the same track.

At that point, even the most expensive DCC systems will be more cost effective than fitting batteries and r/c systems and sound to all your locos.

On another point, auto reversers are a snap, and perhaps you have no experience with them.

You put insulated rail joiners at each end of your reverse loop, and then connect 4 wires, 2 to the reverse loop, and 2 to the main. Done in 10 minutes and no complexity, since it is indeed and AUTO reverser.

I'll agree manually reversing DC power with switches is a pain, but there are also auto reversers that will work on DC.

20 years ago this stuff was complicated, today it's all off the shelf, easy to do.

Greg