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Backer board

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  • Member since
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Posted by ztribob on Monday, November 14, 2011 8:32 AM

8gkds

I'll do it! I'm just one of those guys who likes to do it right the first time....Assuming I'm doing it right....LOL

There's nothing like making mistakes to speed learning.  Going back to do things right, has taught me much more than doing it right the first time. 

Bob

 

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Posted by Ray Dunakin on Sunday, November 13, 2011 11:42 AM

I used backer board on a couple of my switches. It worked ok but the main problem I had is that there's no good way to cut the stuff! Since then, I've used some kind of stiff, 1/4" thick plastic material that I got from the "cutoffs" bin at the local plastics dealer. 

 

I glue the switches to the base, and then glue in some ballast, being careful to keep it away from the moving parts. This way it blends with the rest of the track, which is just on ballast.

 Visit www.raydunakin.com to see pics of the rugged and rocky In-ko-pah Railroad!
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Posted by 8gkds on Saturday, November 12, 2011 11:24 AM

I'll do it! I'm just one of those guys who likes to do it right the first time....Assuming I'm doing it right....LOL

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Posted by ttrigg on Saturday, November 12, 2011 3:59 AM

Richard: I have seen very successful operations where folks have used many different types of roadbed support. Backer board, cinder block tops, cement road beds, floating track on crushed stone and many more. I've also seen operational nightmares in each. The key to success, no matter which technique, is take the time needed to ensure solid and level construction.

Enough talking, get outside and play in the dirt.

Tom Trigg

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Posted by 8gkds on Friday, November 11, 2011 4:08 PM

Hi ztribob,

   Well, it's good to know that I am not the only one with the idea....It's nice to know others have had success with backer board......I was going to lay it on a bed of compacted Decomposed Granite base and see what happens.......I have also thought of glassing something like some PVC pipe, or something like that, to help anchor the board a little bit........I don't think it will have to be too fancy. The rest of the track will just float on ballast.........

I'm gettin' enthused.........LOL

Thanks,

Richard

 

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Posted by ztribob on Friday, November 11, 2011 11:34 AM

Yep, there's nothing like just getting out there and and doing it.  I've used some backer board and had good results with it.  I live in SW Michigan and do have snow, ice etc problems, but the backer board has held up well.  I used the good stuff like Greg suggested , not the cheap stuff.  And I made sure the ground under it was good and level and solid. 

Bob

 

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  • From: North San Diego County
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Posted by 8gkds on Thursday, November 10, 2011 10:34 PM

Hi ttrigg,

   Thanks for the input and advice. It's funny, but I've got Chickens wandering around, too. They belong to my daughter, but they're at my house....LOL They do get into everything....But, I don't have many insect crawling around!

   I may be "over thinking" for what I plan to do, but it seems to be what I do....I just hate to have to go back and fix an experiment if there is a proven, established way to do things

   I probably ought to just get out there and get to work.....LOL

Thanks!

 

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Posted by ttrigg on Thursday, November 10, 2011 9:56 PM

There are a wide array of "level approach" techniques out there. Since we live in the "neighborhood", and we have no upheaval problems you can look at one more option. I use the "trench" method, 4" wide x 4" deep lined with weed cloth (to keep the "fill gravel" from sinking into the clay). Build the road bed about an inch above ground level. I make sure the top of the roadbed is plumb and level (by 360 degrees) and lay the track directly on the roadbed. I've had my layout for ~10 years and the only time I've had to adjust any of my turnouts, is when the chickens have dug under the switch.

Tom Trigg

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  • From: North San Diego County
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Posted by 8gkds on Thursday, November 10, 2011 9:32 PM

Hi Greg,

  Thanks for the help. I was mainly thinking of using backer board under turnouts and maybe the first foot or two of the tracks which lead up to the turnout. Mainly because I've noticed a few folks who have shared the idea that keeping the turnout on the same plane as the approaching tracks, helps reduce problems at turnouts.....

   for laarger areas, I wonder if you could glass some PVC pipe under the larger pieces to make them a bit more rigid......OOOOPS! It looks like the wheels are turning again.(Slowly)..........LOL

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Posted by Greg Elmassian on Thursday, November 10, 2011 8:44 PM

I tried it with mixed results.

Basically, if you glue the track to the backer board or do not use any ballast, it works fine.

Get the best stuff, smooth both sides, waterproof version (not cheaper stuff, not name brand stuff).

If you lay track on it and ballast it, the ballast slowly works it's way between ties and backer board...  and it becomes hard to keep level, basically no help at all unless you have over an inch of ballast.

By that time, just plain ballast was easier.

I do have a switchyard that is all on backer board, and has weathered very well.

Look for the switchyard on my site.

 

Regards, Greg

 

 

Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.

 Click here for Greg's web site

 

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Backer board
Posted by 8gkds on Thursday, November 10, 2011 3:15 PM

Hi Folks,

   I've been collecting "stuff" for the RR for a number of years now, and I believe I am actually getting close to starting construction! (Pray for me....LOL).

   In reading a number of posts It seems that some folks feel it's important to ensure that turnouts are on a solid footing. I've read articles with different solutions, but then I got to thinking about the concrete backer board that is used as an underlayment for tile. It's about a 1/2" thick and sold in 2' x 4' panels. It seems like it would be a good choice.

   What I don't know is how well it will last outside. It seems like it would work fine, but I can't find anyone who has used so that I might verify my suspicions.

   If it could successfully be used outside, it could be used as concrete slabs under buildings, or whatever. I searched for an article on this website but didn't find one.

   I'd be interested to know what you folks have experienced, or what you think.........

Thanks,

Richard

 

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