Trains.com

Best place to start

3021 views
13 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: North Coastal San Diego
  • 947 posts
Posted by Greg Elmassian on Saturday, March 26, 2011 12:25 AM

The power problems could also be the joiners you used... if cost is an issue, solder wire jumpers between rail sections, no conductivity issues, and you can use inexpensive joiners, since they will only align the rail, not provide electrical conductivity.

Greg

Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.

 Click here for Greg's web site

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • 26 posts
Posted by SoCalJoe on Thursday, March 24, 2011 3:31 PM

Hi Ed:

I LOVE flextrack.  I laid over 400 feet of it last year.  My first layout (about 15 years ago) was comprised of sectional track.  Flextrack opens up a whole new world and lets you be really creative.  $311 is a pretty good price.  Be sure to budget for a dual rail bender.  It makes the job a snap.  I used Aristocraft flextrack which comes with very nice rail joiners.  You'll need to do quite a bit of track cutting whenever you bend curves since you wil wind up with one rail longer than the other.  Take a look at the posts on the forum for good suggestions on cutting.

Good luck!

Joe

 

 

  

 

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
  • 3,092 posts
Posted by ttrigg on Wednesday, March 23, 2011 2:27 AM

brains

Are there advantages/disadvantages to using the flex track and is this a good price?  I figured for now I would make a continuous loop and then eventually add switches and expand the layout.  I am just looking to get a decent supply of track without breaking the bank.

I am a very biased proponent of flex track. It allows for any size curves that are not in the standard "off the shelf" curves. The longer the rails means many fewer rail joints, thus fewer possible "picked rail joints". Flex rails in 10 foot lengths allow for one to move the track ever so slightly to avoid obstackles in the right of way.

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Near Akron Ohio
  • 163 posts
Posted by mgilger on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 10:32 PM

220grit is way to course. Use something like 1500-2000 and you won't have to worry about hurting the track. A pole sander works good, and saves your knees and back, as you can sand while standing. You can find them at Home Depot or Lowes.

Your conditions might be different than mine, but I typically will do a sanding before my first run in the spring, and that's all that is required. From then on, I use the Aristo Craft track cleaning car. If you eventually move into battery power, you can completely give up worrying about cleaning the track.

Mark

 

M. Gilger - President and Chief Engineer MM&G web

Web Site: http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/

  • Member since
    January 2011
  • 22 posts
Posted by brains on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 6:09 PM

I got back out with some 220 sandpaper and cleaned the track, what a difference.  I am just worried about sanding the track all of the time, won't it start to make the track smaller?

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: N. California & Nevada
  • 448 posts
Posted by g. gage on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 5:11 PM

Howdy Ed; I have a 450’ mainline loop of mixed Aristo and USA Trains brass sectional track using track power. I use an Aristo track cleaning car with a 3M green pad in place of their cleaning pad. Many of us use wallboard sanders for track cleaning. I use mine with 3M green pad cut to size. If track is very dirty I spray a little WD40 on the pad.

Have fun, Rob

  • Member since
    January 2011
  • 22 posts
Posted by brains on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 2:55 PM

I took your advice and took my layout outside today.  I just laid it int he area that I will eventually have the permanent layout.  I had some crushed limestone that I used as ballast to kind of level the track in spots.  When I put the train on it it would not move, so I cleaned all of the loose ballast and rubbed the track with a scouring pad and it started to run a little better but not as good as inside.  How often am I going to be cleaning the track?  Is there something I am doing wrong?  I was hoping that cleaning it once it would run fine for a while.  I guess I see why so many people use battery power vs. track power.  Dur to limited budget I need to use track power, what can I do?

Thanks in advance and I am sure there will be more questions to follow,

Ed

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: NJ (Kittatinny Mountains)
  • 436 posts
Posted by SNOWSHOE on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 7:04 AM

You should be able to get good deals on track at the York show.  When I first started laying track I was limited.  I had sectional track and a few 4.5ft straights.  I was very limited.  When I expanded I went with the 4.5ft straights (all Aristo Brass)and bent the rails using a homemade rail bender.  What a differnece being able to make your own curves. 

I live on nine acres so space was not an issue.  I picked the general area where I wanted the layout to go the flatest spot)  Rather then putting my design on papper I just made a list of what  wanted on my layout.  Tunnel, S curve, Testles, mountain, long straights, a passing siding and sidings leading to industry.   I started out with the S turn and went from their.   

  • Member since
    January 2011
  • 22 posts
Posted by brains on Monday, March 21, 2011 8:10 PM

I went outside and did some measuring, boy do I need some track.  The size of what I have looks good in the house but is tiny outside, good point.  I wanted to take it outside tomorrow but the weather here is supposed to be rain for a few days then snow. 

I did find what I think is a good deal, you tell me.  Is this stuff good or bad?

Code 332 Brass Flex Accucraft Track 6' USA Style 12pcs  $311.00

Are there advantages/disadvantages to using the flex track and is this a good price?  I figured for now I would make a continuous loop and then eventually add switches and expand the layout.  I am just looking to get a decent supply of track without breaking the bank.

As of now I plan on attend the ECLSTS this weekend and hope to find many deals but I do have to deal with a wife who has other plans for my money.

Thanks,

Ed

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: N. California & Nevada
  • 448 posts
Posted by g. gage on Sunday, March 20, 2011 4:11 PM

I would and did take stuff outside and just start playing around with it. Don’t even move boulders or level ground until seeing a vision of what you like and want. You didn’t say anything about rolling stock. I would accumulate track and rolling stock that will fill the widest latitude of service. My first standard minimum diameter track was 8’; I later settling on 10’minimun diameter and use up to 20’ where possible. You mentioned a logging railroad. I suggest something like the California Western RR commonly known as the “Skunk RR”. Log trains operated from camps along the Willits-Fort Bragg mainline to a large lumber mill located at Fort Bragg, CA. Freight trains brought supplies and empty cars to Fort Bragg and lumber loads to the interchange at Willits. Skunk passenger motor cars and trains operate between the two towns. This arrangement has a lot of operation on the same mainline.  

 

Have fun, Rob  

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: North Coastal San Diego
  • 947 posts
Posted by Greg Elmassian on Sunday, March 20, 2011 12:05 PM

Another good idea is $99 for track planning software that is easy to use. You can block out your space, put trees in, and do a lot of "what if" ... it's as simple as snapping track together.

RR-Track, best $99 I ever spent, I had some challenges with grades and fitting things in a very restricted space.

Greg

Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.

 Click here for Greg's web site

 

  • Member since
    January 2011
  • 22 posts
Posted by brains on Sunday, March 20, 2011 8:13 AM

I started reading some of the beginner articles, and I know I saw a chart somewhereof  what measurements are for each of the types of radius'.  I want to know where do you measure from to determine what size curves I would need.  I see most people model theirs after an existing railroad but I would like to create my own design, mainly modeled after the surrounding community and I would also like to include some logging trains as well.  I do agree that I need to get mine outside and see what it looks like, Thanks,

Ed

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: S.Easton , Mass.
  • 593 posts
Posted by smcgill on Sunday, March 20, 2011 7:04 AM

Get that loop out there and try running in the area's you were thinking! Cool 

Seeing the trains out side will help envision how they will look ! Idea

Good luck!

Sean

Mischief

  • Member since
    January 2011
  • 22 posts
Best place to start
Posted by brains on Sunday, March 20, 2011 5:23 AM

Alright, I can finally see grass in my yard.  Now it is time to find out where to put my layout.  I have a very wooded lot with many boulders.  I have an area in mind that has some elevation changes.  How do I begin figuring out what I need?  I only have a 4' circle and (2) 5' straights.  Looking to get more track but do not know where to begin.  What do I do?

Thanks,

Ed

Search the Community

FREE EMAIL NEWSLETTER

Get the Garden Railways newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month

By signing up you may also receive occasional reader surveys and special offers from Garden Railways magazine. Please view our privacy policy