Build a Stub switch

[spikejones52002]

 

This is the basic layout of the stub cross over Switch. I needed four inches between inside rails. This is clearance needed for the Articulated engines to clear equipment on outer track.
The 3/4 PVC to the left is my 4 inch track gauge. PVC is easy to work.
I ripped the ties to the same height of the Aristo ties. This raised the track a bit higher under the Aristo. There is the under rail tie joiner holding Aristo ties together.
When I laid the rail. It is now the same height as the rest of my layout track.
I placed a touch of glue at each end of my ties. This held the ties in place to the cardboard.
Notice the CROSS in the center on the cardboard.





I used Aristo straight and 10 ft R track sections to plan the track layout.
I laid my convergence of the curve over the straight track.
Remember that the radius of the rails changes at the center point. It changes form inside radius to outside radius.
Connecting two sections of the curve track sections gives you the correct curves.
Just remember to place the center of the track section junction over the center point. I trimmed a piece of thin wood to fit inside the section of track. I then used a nail to match the centers.




Then I adjusted the curve sections to fit in the straight track sections. I kept adjusting the track sections (both straight and curve) to match rail ends. I placed a combination square against the outside rail to place the ends.




This was all set until I was ready to cut the rails. I decided would be easer to cut the straight. I cut the rail at the crossover point.  I found out I needed to cut the short section of a bit longer that the longer side of the rail. After I ground down the point the difference became apparent. If you mess up the cut length. It is easer to match / adjust up the ends of the straight than the curve.






Note the snap-jaw rail camps in the center (over the “X”).

The point of the straight rail is shorter on the inside of the curve than the outside of the curve.


http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/SpikeJones5/SwitchBuild012.jpg

I ran into problems trimming the base of the rails to fit the points.
Remember you have to leave room between the rails junctions. This is where you could have a electrical short.
I did a lot of hacking of the rail base.
I spiked down the rail as I thought I got the pattern set.
When I removed the cardboard base templet. I turned the cross-over, over. I seen it is a lot easer to see where I needed to trim the rail bases.
When I was sure I had the frog points correct. I used “JB weld stick epoxy” to build the frog. I forced the epoxy down in-between the rails. The I quickly rolled a wheel truck over the epoxy. That made the grooves for the wheel flanges. After the epoxy harden. It still took a bit of trimming to fit the flanges.
To fit the wheel flange width and heigh. You need to feel any binding as you test roll the truck. Next watch for any lift as the truck goes through.

            



I used Aristo rail joiner to limit and support the moving rails.
After I thought I had the supports correct. When I applied power to the rails and I moved the rails to the cross-over track. It electrically shorted. I needed to trim the support. I trimmed to give clearance of the rail base.

Note the placement of the support / joiners. Aristo makes one side (outside of rail) higher that the inside (Flange) side. You need to place the lower side on the wheel flange side of the rail.
I need to sculpt a tie to give support and keep clearance under the supports  as the direction changes.




I will need to use micro-switched to route power to the rails. As different weigh equipment roll over the junction / support. Electrical contact is intermittent.

I kept fighting wheel binding and derailments. Major problem the truck wheels are not really gauged to the track. The wheels are set a bit closer in. This is to let Christmas Dads run long wheel base equipment on a 3 ft D circle under the Christmas tree.
Placing the guard rails was tough. I needed to grind off the rail base to get it close to the rail.
Now the rail was hard to spike down solid. I even attempted to hot glue it from the bottom. They were quickly knocked down.
I also got some to close and they made electrical shorts.



I just had an idea to use some of the extra wood ties. Easy to trim to butt up against the rails and not short.

I for see that I need to use insulated Snap-jaw on the exits of the cross-over. I think there will be the possibility of electrical cross feed with power feed from both sides.
With the insulated joiners. The only time I might have a problem is when a set of power pick-up truck is passing over the joiner.

[PJM20]

Nice work so far, keep it up!  - Peter

[Ray Dunakin]

Fascinating! Thanks for posting this stuff.

[captain perry]

Very cool switch(s)  You seem to be doing a great job...it is not easy. 

Mine was for live steam so i just soldered the complicated bits to a peice of brass then nailed that to the ties...no worries about short circuits.

One thing that may save some effort is that you can bend the rail sideways to make the guard rails and frog areas.  I clamped the rail in a vise then just bent them by hand to the right angle...looks pretty good too!

[spikejones52002]

Yes soldering the frogs to a piece of brass would have made it easier.

Problem now you can not run lighted cars, or you need a lot of batteries.

I tried bending the rail. it would kink and not lie flat.

I even tried a piece of very tight radius rail. It still could not be spiked and do the job.

[captain perry]

not much can be done about the electrical connectiviety if you solder stuff....

If you kink the rail a little, perhaps you can pound it back into shape with a hammer like a blacksmith.  it was probably 20 years ago I did mine I do not recall if i had the kinking problem.  if you have a vise or flat cast iron saw table top use that as an anvil to smith the offending rail into shape.

[spikejones52002]

I attempted to use Micro-switches to power the rails. I found 4 perfect switches in my junk box.

When I attempted to secure them with a nail. I slipped and broke to mount for the actuating arm.

I used the movings section rails to actuate the Micro. Common is picked off the moving rail. normal closed feeds the straight rails. normal open will feed the cross over rails.

I am doing this for one. When I test run the engine over the stub. I would lose power.

I also want to isolate the unused rails. When I derailed on my Aristo 10 Dia. cross-over. I shorted and fried the witing in my BIg Boy and Challenger.