Lift out bridge

[Anonymous]

I am a new beginner in G scale layout. My problem is I have a 2' raised layout that spans a sidewalk at one point. As we are senior citizens, we don't want to have yo climb over the layout to use the sidewalk so I want a lift out or removeable span over that sidewalk. How do you build a lift out that will self align the tracks when replaced to run the main line?

[Anonymous]

We are also seniors and have the same situation on our line.
This is what I am thinking will work. Place two short brass rods into the underside of the lift-out section on each end. Then drill matching holes into the permanent roadbed on each end. Insert a brass pipe sized to fit the brass rods into the holes to act as receivers. If you are running track power, solder wires from the brass rods to the rails on the lift-out section and do the same on the permanent roadbed, This should give you automatic hook-up of the track power.

A set up like this should line up the rails and energize the rails all at once.

Clear as mud?

OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

Thanks , Old Dad. Sounds like one possibity!

[grandpopswalt]

Jbarjmx,

Like you and Larry, I'm also a senior. Here's an idea I've been toying with but haven't yet tried. Instead of a lift-out section, how about a swing-out section? The pivot should be a good quality , rust-proof, "lazy-susan" type device, maybe something plastic. The alignment could be done with something like a barrel-bolt on the non-pivot end. Track power could be provided using weather-proof connectors on one end or by using a long flexible cord at the pivot end.

Grandpopswalt

[Anonymous]

Hi guys,
The alignment part can be done by spigots into holes as Old Dad says, having the bridge drop into a shaped section etc. To get the track sections lined up after placing the bridge cut the ties back and put a fishplate on the track to slide over the track ends. For electrical continuity solder wire to the tracks and join the wires in a connector that can be tucked away. Worked for me on an old layout some years ago.
Cheers,
Kim
[tup]

[Anonymous]

I had to design a lift out section for my Dad's railway that had to be simple and fool proof. A 1200mm base board was constructed and a 1200mm lenght of track (LGB)laid. This bridge rest's on bearer's at each end , aligned to the correct height, the original fixed rail joiners were removed and new one's that could slide along the rail were fitted. I also feed the power to the track section involved via the bridge so that when the bridge is removed no powered movement of traffic is possible. Therefore to remove the bridge involves sliding back four rail joiners, disconecting a plug and lift. A matter of a few seconds and the track always aligns even after five years use. The only maintenance is to change the rail joiners every year.

Hope this is usefull, Trevor.

[wa1lbk]

I'll add a slight suggestion to "OLD DAD's" - add an additional wiring contact at each end of the bridge. Use this contact to feed power to an insulated track section - I'd say at least 3 feet long - on either side of your removable bridge. (This is assuming you're running normal track-powered trains). This will prevent your locomotives from executing "swan dives" [xx(] into the resulting gap should you forget to put the bridge in place before running trains! [;)] I used this system for many years on an indoor O scale (2-rail) layout - it saved at least a couple of brass locomotives from what a younger friend of mine refers to as "brain farts"! [(-D] Tom Lapointe

[Anonymous]

hi
Adding [2c] to the descusion the dowels to locate the bridge are good
Hillmans rail clamps do a lift bridge set that has hinges and special
rail joiners in it.
I would think a contact strip on the pier with a wire to the track and a matching one on the bridge would also be a good idea to help ensure electricaly live track on the bridge.
regards John

[Anonymous]

Tom,

What a good idea, never thought of that modification. Didn't Bachmann do a 'Silverton Flyer' set? It certainly would be without a bridge!!
Cheers,
Kim
[tup]