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What can I expect from a 0-4-0

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  • Member since
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What can I expect from a 0-4-0
Posted by brains on Wednesday, February 16, 2011 4:33 PM

I am very new to this.  I purchased an Aristo-Craft 0-4-0 starter set that came with 2 non-lighted passenger cars (plastic wheels) and the basic train engineer.  I have added 2 five foot sections to make a decent oval track that I have in my living room.  I got my Dad excited as well, he picked up a Pennsylvania Aristo lighted passenger car (metal wheels).  We also aquired from e-bay, 3 cabooses.  One has lights (metal wheels) and the other 2 have plastic wheels. 

I can run the train pretty fast with the 3 passenger cars and one of the cabooses.  The instructions said it would pull up to six cars.  When I attach all cars, 3 passenger, 2 cabooses and the other cabosse I have removed the body and am experimenting with making flat cars, the main engine sits still and spins the wheels.  I have also cleaned the track with WD-40 b/c it started to hesitate.  I sthis normal b/c I have only run it indoors for about 3-4 weeks.  There was no visible changes to track but when wiped the cloth was black.

With six cars, too heavy I guess if the wheels just spin.  How many cars can I really expect to pull if I intend on setting up outside with switches and some definite grade changes with tunnels and bridges? I have heard that I should only increase the grade 1 inch for every 3 feet, is that right?   If the normal load is only 3-4cars then that is fine.  Is there another engine out there that would pull more? 

I know, a lot of questions in 1 post, and I am sure there are more to come, can't wait for the snow to melt. 

Thanks in advance for your input,

Ed

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Posted by two tone on Thursday, February 17, 2011 3:18 AM

Hi    If you have wheel spin you have overloaded the load and will cause rthe moter to over heat. rolling stock with metal wheels is about 30% heaver than plastic ones.  to have a long train  8-10 coaches or wagons you need a loco 2-6-0 and above remember metal wheels cause more drag.    Hope this helps

                Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life

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Posted by dwbeckett on Thursday, February 17, 2011 8:19 AM

The Plastic wheels will leave a black resadue on the the track and on your carpeting as well. The Brass Rail just needs to be wiped with paper towels to remove any resadue from the oil you used. Also your 0-4-0 will only pull 3-4 small cars without lites on a flat and level surface. I would also recomend puting something under your track to help keep the carpet clean. 

Dave  

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

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Posted by Narrowgauge on Thursday, February 17, 2011 9:36 PM

Brains,

 

First, let me debunk the statement that metal wheels have more drag. That is not true. Metal wheels do have more WEIGHT, which will make your cars track better and be more stable. The coefficient of friction between brass (the rail) and the metal (wheel) is less than between the rail and a plastic wheel. There is also less rolling resistance with metal wheels. Next, you need to lubricate the ends of the axle where it rides in the journal box on the truck with a plastic compatible lubricant (I personally use a white lithium grease I purchase at an automotive store - make certain it is plastic compatible). All of my active (I have some I just recently acquired that has not been upgraded) rolling stock is equipped with metal wheels. If you plan to run your trains outdoors metal wheels are a must. This summer I used an  infrared thermometer on some brass track on a summer after noon (north west Florida) and recorded 145 degrees plus on the rails. Plastic will not stand up well at those temperatures. If you are running solely indoors, plastic wheels may be a good alternative as they are quieter running than the metal ones.

 

If your locomotive wheels are spinning under the load of the train behind, you need to reduce the number of cars until it rolls easily. Remember, an 0-4-0 locomotive was primarily a switch engine in the rail yard, not a road engine. That being said, many a hobbiest has done exactly what you are doing as a starting point and expand from there.

 

The black residue you are cleaning off the rails after running for a bit is carbon, caused by microscopic arcing as the wheel rolls along the rail. This is normal and will happen no matter what track or engine you are running. Although I do not have personal experience, many modelers claim a very light wiping with Wahl Clipper oil or as you have done, WD-40 helps to reduce this. Keep in mind that it must be a VERY light wipe, as both products are a lubricant.

 

Welcome to the hobby, and happy railroading!

 

Bob C.

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Posted by Alville on Thursday, April 21, 2011 12:36 AM

I have used my 0-4-0 to pull 3 heavy weight passenger cars. It can handle all the grades I have, none exceed 3%.

paul

Mik
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Posted by Mik on Thursday, April 21, 2011 3:37 AM

What CAN you expect? More than the prototype could pull.

In the real world an 0-4-0 would mostly be used to shift a few cars at a time for short distances in a yard. 2 freight cars at a time, maybe 3.... depending on if they were full or empty. Maybe 1 or 2 coaches as it made up a train. On a cash strapped shortline one might have sometimes been pressed into local duty with a VERY short freight or mixed. And I pity the engineer's kidneys. They rode really rough and their small wheels meant, like a shay, over about 7mph they were pounding pretty good.

However, most modelers tend to have somewhat unrealistic expectations and will try to push the boundaries of not only what is plausible, but what their equipment is physically capable of. It's the nature of the beast, I guess.

The Aristo CAN pull 4 short coaches without spinning too badly, if the track is level and dry, Whether it SHOULD is up to you.

As for 'bigger'  to pull longer trains... steam or diesel? Standard gauge or narrow? Price range? Size of curves you plan to use?

If you plan to continue using the sharp curves you already have, then the smaller loco and short trains will probably look better anyway. There's absolutely nothing wrong with small.

http://www.the-ashpit.com/mik/budget.html

Mik, CMO, gandy dancer, and all around flunky of the Allegheny Valley Garden Railroad - the outdoor, indoor, indoor, outdoor line http://www.the-ashpit.com/mik/layout.html
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Posted by brains on Thursday, April 21, 2011 9:44 AM

Well I figured the engine could only pull a few cars.  I am kind of stuck with the 0-4-0 until money allows a bigger engine.  Also included in the budget would have to be some 8 ft. curves.  For now I have all 4 ft. curves and a small dog leg that would not handle a bigger engine.  I will have to make what I have work for now until money allows.  I just cannot wait to get out and play with them.  I just picked up another 0-4-0 with the tender and cannot wait to see how it sounds.  I also have a Bachman BH that can handle the tight curves.  I know it does not look realistic but it looks good enough for a 2 and 4 year old.

Thanks for your help,

Ed

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Posted by cabbage on Monday, April 25, 2011 1:50 AM

If you are tight for cash then you will have to do what had to ha;pen to me -start scratch building.  Also if you are forced to have tight curves the only route if you want to have long trains are articulated designs.

http://www.cabbagepatchrailway.co.uk/welcome.html

Read the central section marked "Kitchen Sink Engineering" and "Articulated Locomotives".

I would examine IP Engineering's web site for parts as well as Brandbrights.

http://www.ipengineering.co.uk/

http://www.brandbright.co.uk/

My Price 16 Wheeler can handle 2 feet 6 inch radius curves and it is 54cm long...

 

regards

ralph

The Home of Articulated Ugliness

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Posted by PV&W on Wednesday, May 4, 2011 1:28 AM

Love the little Aristo 0-4-0!

Mine is able to pull a "full" load of 5 cars and a bobber caboose.  Check out http://home.comcast.net/~lordclain/PVandW.htm for pictures.  The layout uses the minimum 4' diameter (2' radius) curves and grades less than 2%.

An improvement to make is to add electrical connections with a connector between the engine and the tender to increase pickup for the engine.  http://www.aristocraft.com/ has an article to do this under their "acticle & photos" section.  I have not done this yet, but plan to do so this year as I do occationally see hesitation from dirty track or when stopping over a switch.  With the improvement in place the engine will have electrical pick-up from twice the length of track.

Enjoy!

P. V. & W. RR. htttp://home.comcast.net/~PVandW

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Posted by SNOWSHOE on Friday, May 6, 2011 7:25 AM

For a first you did well by getting the 0-4-0.  Like everyone mentioned the wheels slipping are from pulling too many cars.  Also the WD40 could cause slipping because it will make the track a little slick.  Just take a scotch brite pad and go around the rails.  thats all you really need to clean the tracks.  If you go outdoors get metal wheels.  If money is an issue go with the Bachman metal wheels.  hey cost a lot less.  Thats all I use and im happy with them. 

Nothing wrong with using 4ft curves with the a small engine.  Just look at the first place winner in the small garden railway contest.  He used small curves with small engines. He was able to make a great looking layout. I personally think a small RR has a lot more charm.  Look at Miks above.  A great example of a small RR.  You dont need to pull a lot of cars.  I like 3-4 cars behind my engine.  Plus pulling less cars will save on wear and tear. 

Good luck

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Posted by piercedan on Saturday, May 7, 2011 10:09 AM

A strong pulling 0-4-0 is the LGB stainz, LGB DRGW(2063).

Also the USA 20 tonner, and the Hartland engines are heavy and strong pullers.

 

 

 

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Posted by brains on Saturday, May 7, 2011 7:41 PM

Thanks to everyone for their great comments.  I am realizing that if the track were more level the 0-4-0 would pull more.  Also the newest of my 0-4-0, another aristo, seems to pull better than the other one I have.  After seeing the contest winner I think I can get away with the 4' curves and be ok.  I would love to have some 8' curves but I am building a little at a time.  I was just in the back yard trying to figure out what to do next and I think i could use a few switches and extend the basic loop that I have now.  When I get a little more educated with the computer I will try to post pics, please do not hold your breath though.

Thanks again,

Ed

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Posted by ttrigg on Monday, May 9, 2011 12:30 AM

I have an LGB 0-4-0 starter set, It can pull one of the "stubby" starter passenger cars up to the top of my water fall. That means it pulls up a 17% (seventeen percent, thats not a typo.) grade with a 14" (fourteen inch) "S" curve on the bridge. That is a pretty sever section to run on. When on the mainline she can do well with a full complement of (40 ft cars)  one baggage, one combine, 2 passenger, 2 box, 2 cattle, one flat,  one bondola and a drovers caboose.

Tom Trigg

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Posted by FoxRunRR on Thursday, June 30, 2011 7:45 AM

I hope I'm not reviving a dead topic here, but you should definitely check out Hartland's locomotives and rolling stock if you're strapped for cash but want some equipment to run. Their kits are awesome, and their Mack locomotive is one of the best around.

El Presidente Fox Run RR

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