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The start of my journey

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  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Hickman, Ca
  • 9 posts
The start of my journey
Posted by lew1970 on Sunday, February 6, 2011 9:17 PM

Well, my first post was about trying to build some sort of Helix and run my track overhead. Ive decided to forget the elevated track and build at a lower elevation inside and then head outside eventually. It took up half of my game room but hey, I can allready see that "indoor town" is going to be fun. Eventually the train will have a tunnell on the back wall to get outside into the future garden area.

 

Here is my lay out and the first picture of the looong project. Outside track is 8' radius and the inside track is 5' radius, with 2 switches. One working and one burned out (lesson learned).

One thing I noticed is that all of the straight track has some kind of film on it and the train jerks alot through thos sections..Is this normal for brand new track? The film on it is kind of a black tint. Im going to hand clean for now but will be getting a track cleaner that I can run on it. Will steel whool be OK for now? As soon as I know for sure what the permenant lay out will be, im going to solder all of the joints. But for now, I wouldn't think brand new track should be giving me fits allready..

 Hopefully this picture comes out

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Hickman, Ca
  • 9 posts
Posted by lew1970 on Monday, February 7, 2011 2:11 PM

Try a pcture again....

 

 

[View:http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/themes/trc/utility/:550:0]

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • 140 posts
Posted by Mt Beenak on Monday, February 7, 2011 9:47 PM

G'day Lew.

The black film could be from running plastic wheels on your track.  They take household dust and turn it into an insulating material...don't know how, it just happens.  The good news is that it can be removed with a scotchbright pad rubbed on the rail tops.  If it is difficult to remove, use a very small amount of kerosene on a rag to loosen it, then the scotchbright.  I don't like steel wool, because it leaves little slivers of metal which the motors like to pick up.

Mick

Chief Operating Officer

Northern Timber Company - Mt Beenak

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: North Coastal San Diego
  • 947 posts
Posted by Greg Elmassian on Monday, February 7, 2011 10:18 PM

If the black stuff is dry and powdery, it can also be the result of arcing between the wheels and the rails, carbon dust.

Plastic wheels tend to make more of a deposit on the rails harder to remove.

Of course there's always exceptions.

Eliminating plastic wheels is always a good thing for many reasons.

Regards, Greg

Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.

 Click here for Greg's web site

 

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Hickman, Ca
  • 9 posts
Posted by lew1970 on Monday, February 7, 2011 11:57 PM

Never thought about the plastic wheels.. I bought this Bauchman kit used at the right price and soon will be up grading. Maybe I should think about up grading a little sooner.

Would it be worth it to change out the wheels just to get me by? I havent quite decided which engine and rolling stock i'm going to go with yet (was thinking going all aristocraft) and need to think about it a little bit more. I know I want to stick with the old steamer narrow gauge style, I just dont know which manufacture is going to offer more of that style.

 

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Florida, USA
  • 100 posts
Posted by Narrowgauge on Tuesday, February 8, 2011 4:28 PM

Lew,

 

Welcome to large scale!

 

There is nothing wrong with Bachmann as a manufacturer.  A good portion of my rolling stock and motive power is by Bachmann.  Replacing the plastic wheels with steel wheels is the most recommended upgrade made by all of the experienced guys. My experience is that 1) less track depsoits, 2) cars roll easier and 3) they lower the center of gravity of the rolling stock, making it more stable (especially outdoors where track conditions tend to mirror the prototype).

 

Cost wise, the Bachmann steel wheel sets are the most cost effective. They are simple to install, especially on the B'mann rolling stock. When I replace/repair/prepare wheel sets, I use White Lithium grease (make sure it is plastic compatible) in the journal pockets before assembling the truck. One lubrication per year has done me well.

 

If you are limiting your self to 'old timey narrow gauge steam', you have limited your choices of manufacturers. Aristo Craft makes a couple of narrow gauge engines, but Bachmann by far makes the most. Hartland also makes a few. There may be others, and I am sure someone will jump in and add to/correct my diatribe.

 

Great start to a fun hobby. For now my playground is the Emerald Coast Garden Railway Club, web site www.ecgrc.com. Stop by and check us out.

 

Bob C.

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Hickman, Ca
  • 9 posts
Posted by lew1970 on Sunday, February 13, 2011 1:22 AM

Well after a visit to one of the bigger Hoby stores around this area, I think youre right about limiting myself to a certain manufacture/ style. I picked up an  Aristo track cleaner caboos and a couple Bauchman and a couple Aristo rolling stock. First thing right out of the box I had to do is drill some holes and change out some couplers on the Bauchmans. Unlike what I was told at the Hoby store, the two manufacture WONT couple up. Lucky enough after drilling one single hole and attaching the Aristo couplers to the Bauchman cars, they lined up perfectaly. Even the heght is perfect (got luck I suppose).

Next is cutting some access doors from underneath for easier building and future maintanance.

What do most of you do as far as covering the plywood. Was thinking of throwing a coat of brown down just so there is some cover and maybe won't show some of the imperfections that I'm sure will show up when I start applying gravel,grasses, roadbase ect, ect....

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