Hi Guys
further to my previous post about NWSL, I thought I should send you some photos of my current Gauge 1 project. This is the passenger carriage plug for a 4 car V-Set on the Sydney Interurban runs. They are my local units and I quite like them. I am almost finished on the power unit as well. Will make a one piece silicone mold and cast with gel-coat / fiberglass.
A 4 car set will be just on 3m / 10ft long . I will use 2 Super Magic Carpet drives, one at each end, when they become available again
What do you think
Warren
Look's like a fun project, I think your V-Set is coming out nicely. - Peter
Modeling the Bellefonte Central Railroad
Fan of the PRR
Garden Railway Enthusiast
Check out my Youtube Channel:
http://www.youtube.com/user/PennsyModeler
Looks good! Please let us have more photos as the job progresses.
Regards from Andrew
love to see some photos of the mold and rough castings too!
Winnegance and Quebec Railway
Eric Schade Gen'l Manager
thanks guys,
appreciate that you commented. Did a casting with polyester resin gel-coat and fiberglass and resin backing coat yesterday, not the best, the gel-coat shrunk on the silicone mold giving an unacceptable surface, have spoken to a friend and I'm looking at getting some epoxy resin with chopped strand for the next test. Will take some photos and post later today, even failures have a place on this forum.
Hope these look Ok, reasonably happy with the mold, just the material for the casting was not appropriate.
Failures are still a step up the evolutionary ladder.
obviously your seeing the photos ? or are you having to click on the link to see. Do I need to change where I store photos as theyr'e currently on Flickr. Still new to this
P.S.
Just moved photos to photobucket, can now see photos without link
I'm seeing the link's , but I think that's all you get with flickr. I use Photobucket myself.
Dave
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
Will be a few days before able to get new resin to make next test.
dwbeckett I'm seeing the link's , but I think that's all you get with flickr. I use Photobucket myself. Dave
Today I see the photo's, Guess you first see the links then next day you see the photo's
strange way to do things, but then if you don't want to see stuff it speed's up your down load
Good to see & meet you on Saturday at Moss Vale. It was great to hear you talk about what you are aiming for for this project.
Cheers from Andrew
Sandbar & Mudcrab
I would say those molded carbodies look pretty good for a first go! you have lots of detail.
tell me about the laser cut wood form to the left of one of those photos. does this go into the mold or is it the basis for the patten?
I have worked with fiberglass molding boat hulls which are much simpler and smoother and had a lot of touch up to get the final boat smooth. I would say you have done well!
Gel coat is intended to cure slightly before adding the fiberglass. the resin is somewhat different than regular polyester and is intended to make the texture of the mold accurately. I think it is typically sprayed as is chopped fiberglass. we modelers want to use less of everything because the product is small but I think a good layer of the gel will still be needed.
Epoxy will not necessarily be better depending on how you apply it. I use a lot of epoxy in my kayaks and canoes with wood and fiberglass cloth. I do not mold these boat but rather coat the wood.
If you can vacuum bag the mold you may have better luck. try putting the whole lay-up into a garbage bag, stick a hose in and seal it. make sure the bag will conform to the inside and outside of the mold. attatch the hose to a vacuum pump of some sort. I have a shop vac with a seprately cooled motor (doesnt use the sucked air to cool it) which does quite well, plus I have an old surplus lab vacuum pump which is amazing. you want to suck all the air out of the mold which will reduce bubbles and keep the product thinner. Vacuum works best with epoxy or slow curing resins.
Hi Captain Perry,
the laser cut wood structure is the basis for the master, that one is actually for the power car. Since taking that photo I have changed tack, and have split the mould into components
This should allow me to make cleaner smoother castings, Still not totally sure what I will cast in yet but going down to Sydney to pick up 20kgs silicone tomorrow and to talk to the supplier about alternatives for casting, taking down the first cast to find out what went wrong, looking at different gel coats as well as polyurethane resins
The masters aren't quite finished,a little bit of sanding and little things like handles to go.
I build a base out of laser cut mdf, and then build up with layers of cut card and plastic to give the finished shape.
Thanks for the comments about resins etc, will let you know what info I get at my supplier tomorrow.
P.S
just confirming that these are all new masters, not the original cut up The advantage of the laser is that you adjust the detail on the drawing and cut another one. There are more details on this version and more accurate than the first.
very cool way to build a car and a mold! You must have a laser cutter in your shop which is pretty useful and above my means. I have hired laser work done for some of my boat models.
I think it will be easier to get good parts by molding in sections. the vacuum trick will work better for essetially flat molds if you find you need a little persuasion to get good results.
I like your work. The photos look good. Was there too much work involved in using the original castings and adding some bog to fill out the holes? The master for the mold looks good enough to be the final model. How many are you planning on building? If it is only one set, could you have just built more masters and run them....
Obviously, if you are planning on multiple sets it is worth getting the casting process right and churning out as many as you need. Certainly looks like you could even sell some to the locals.
Keep updating the thread. I love to see good work in progress.
Mick
Chief Operating Officer
Northern Timber Company - Mt Beenak
Hi Guys,
went down to the big smoke to see my supplier, picked up 20kgs silicone to make new molds, only need about 31/2kgs to make them but cheaper buying in bulk $27kg versus $55 for 1kg.Have decided to try a new batch of brush-able gelcoat backed up with fiberglass cloth and laminating resin. Going to try talcing the molds before coating.If that doesn't work the next option is a polyurethane resin that needs a post casting heat regimen that make the resin firmer
.
Hi Mick, I could use the masters with the internal floors and walls as structural components if I was only needing a couple. These trains are made up as a 4 car set, 2 power cars that have the painted fiberglass ends as shown in an earlier photo with 2 trailer units between. these are run as a 4 car set or joined together to make an 8 car set for peak hours. there are also a few 6 car sets in the fleet that never join up to make bigger units. So at a minimum I need 2 of each, I have had serious interest in 2 more sets so would seem sensible to make good masters and mold and cast them. Also I feel that cast units will be much more suitable for running outdoors which is where I want to run trains.
The other suggestion made today was to leave the silicone for at least 7 days to gas out before casting, also to try it on a cooler drier day. Will need to finish off the masters over the next few days before pouring the silicone, so stay tuned and will try and keep you in the loop.
Next project I have to get started on is 1/12 prairie house and to keep plodding on a 1/24 Egyptian Art Deco Cinema
Ends up about 1800mm x 700mm, only slightly smaller than the 1/24th cinema.
Until next time
Hi All,
Well the world has turned on it's axis and my life is chaotic so have had to put my hobby's and home modelmaking business on hold. Have been employed as a Prop/model maker on a 1920's TV crime series for the next 22 weeks, so with long days and having to pack to move house in the next 3 months I really don't have a lot of extra time to pit towards the trains at the moment.
Further to my drama's with NWSL, They ended up selling me the order twice, I can live with that, but then they couldn't even get the order right, One came through correctly, the other had the invoice correct but O scale wheel sets arrived. Now they don't want to respond at all. I could never recommend this company to anyone.
I will get back on to this forum as soon as life Free's up and I have something to report.
Until then
With the flat pieces you have. I would use silicone molds and cast them in plastic, not fiberglass. Come out smooth with no problems.
Jerry
web site:
http://thescrr.com/
Hi Jerry,
I like using polyurethane resins for getting great detail, however the problem I haven't resolved is heat. All the various types I have access too will distort under heat and sitting out under the sun on a warm day, they get a bit of heat. they will hold their own shape but can get squashed when picked up. Maybe you know of a suitable resin.
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