Protecting Buildings and Such

[Anonymous]

How do you protect structures and other things made of organic materials on your garden railway?

any ideas welcome
Scott

[vsmith]

Depends what they are made of...Most of the ready made buildings like Aristo's are already made of treated plastic and should last many years even out doors. Same goes for Piko, Pola, etc, kits, once assembled and painted they are pretty durable. the biggest problem comes from sun exposure warping the plastic so its generall not a good idea to leave them out 24-7 if you live in the southerly or western states.

For homemade structures again it material, Ceder and Redwood structures can be left out exposed quite literally for years although dryrot and shrinkage will effect them eventually. If you have build some out of Pine or Fir, quite simple, Dont leave thm out! These woods are soft and will dryrot fairly fast if left out 24-7 even if they are treated with a waterseal and/or paint.

A good outside wood choice like Ceder or Redwood is the best place to start, then add a good waterseal like Thompson's is the best basis for any wooden structures, also making sure that water cannot accumulate under a structure or get wicked up into the wood, hence dryrotting it. If you are going to leave something out 24-7 i would make sure it has good drainage under it even elevating it and leaving vent space under it.

Think about older buildings where you could see the posts and braces under the floorline, same idea. Also use real roofing materials like asphalt shingles or metal roofing to protect the roofs, Its almost the same as building a real building just mauch smaller.

Hope this is of some help.

[Anonymous]

Hi train master 1989
For any wood structure even those made of rot resistant timbers I would sugest the same as you would with a wooden real house with one possable exeption and that is to treat the wood with a wood treatment you can paint over ie not creosote.
I would sugest good dose of wood treatment prime undercoat then two coats of exterior grade paint.
For plastic prime and a couple of coats of good exterior paint I would also sugest painting inside and out in both cases.
rembering to repaint every five years or so to keep the protection up
thats [2c]
The key thing is to remember they are in the real world so you paint your residence for protection do the same thing to your outdoor building models [:)] the plastic ones improve10,000% with a good paint job
Thats now 4c worth [:D]
regards John

[Anonymous]

Vsmith, John Busby
Thanks for the advice.
Scott

[Kiwi Down Under]

trainmaster, where I am its hard to get anything in G scale so everything gets adapted.

Take a corrogated iron roof, I simply cant get anything close. Tried the alloy cans but cant find any paint that sticks to it. Finished up using corogated cardboard glued to plywoood and enamel type undercoat and 2 coats of roof paint.

Left outside for 6 months, plenty of sun and rain to see what happens and so far, as good as new.

Anyone else done this, and if so how long did it last for ?. Use exterior plywood for main part of buildings, again plenty of primer and paint. Have been told by paint supplier to use a coat of polyurathane each 2 years or so, but have not tried it yet.

Only problem I have had so far is where the end of the plywood touches the ground. Have now made sure that its not actually in direct contact and it seems to be holding up alright.

Brought some scale plastic roofing tiles, packet said that they were suitable for outside, year right, they lasted a month. Something to do with all the UV rays we get with our extra pure unpoluted air..........
With the price of petrol ( gas) we cant afford to drive anywhere, results no polllution.

Tony.

[Anonymous]

Hi Gscalechuffchuff
For the aluminium can you need an etch primer, which you should be able to get at the local paint supplier
regards john