Hi Walt:
When running a loop, yes, the train works fine. But the loop doesn't cut it for my kid, unfortunately =)
The headlight does indeed go out when the train stalls. I have the voltmeter but the track will be stowed away until Thursday, when I plan on making the check. This should be interesting. But yes, you're correct, train goes nowhere until past 50 on the crank.
I actually love troubleshooting and solving puzzles…must be the Scorpio in me. But not when my kid's on my back about getting the train going! ;)
Thanks once again for all your help.
Yours,
Greg
Hi Cacole:
Thanks for your input. I'm not hip on the different brands of track, but I'm almost positive it's Bachmann track, since they have the same design/components as some MIB Bachmann switch tracks that were included in the lot.
I'm definitely going to invest in some rail clamps to ensure the continuity. Haven't had a chance yet to test rail with the voltmeter and probably won't be able to until later this week, but nevertheless, those rail clamps would be a great investment.Thanks for the tip!
Fireboxer,
If you're just running a loop under the tree, then Bachmann track should work fine. But make sure you use the plastic clips that hold the sections together. I've got a loop under the tree for the grandkids and the trains run just fine on it.
However, not getting movement at 50% output from your power supply sounds like a problem. When you get that voltmeter check to see at what voltage the loco starts to move.
And here's the potentially bad news - Bachmann engines have a very bad track record of "blowing" the drive gear (the one on the axle). Did you say the headlight goes out when the loco stalls? If it stalls and the light is still on, listen carefully to see if you can hear the motor spinning. So if the motor's spinning and the train's not moving - then it's probably a stripped gear.
Ain't troubleshooting fun?
Walt
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Hi I use LGB track and have had no problems in five years its out door 365 its always a good thing to use graphic gease in each joint this gives a good contact between bits of track. I would use a 5-10amp 24volt DC power supply. Also check power clips to track. Hope this helps
Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life
If you are using the B-Mann track then replace it with some better track such as any other brand, if you go with Aristo my faverite make sure you install all the small screws for the track jointers.this should fix any track power problems I only recommend this I you plan on moving your track outside.
Dave
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
This sounds like a case of loose rail joiners not transferring power through the rail joints -- what type or brand of track are you using? You may need to solder additional track power feeder wires around the oval or invest in some rail clamps (Split Jaw, Hillmann, or other brand) to insure good electrical continuity.
My pop-in-law actually has a voltmeter which he uses very often…he's actually coming by tomorrow so I'll ask him to bring it down and I'll explain the problem to him.
I've read briefly on the net about "voltage dropout" when it comes to track layouts (especially large ones). Not sure how pertinent that could be to a small oval, but volts are volts, right? =)
Regarding both directions, yes, it does stall both ways.
Here's some more information regarding the controller: It's an MRC Trainpower 6200. The thing that also concerns me is the train doesn't even get going until I crank that thing past 50 on the knob (it goes up to 100). Anything under 50, and all I hear is that electric hum, like juice is getting to the wheels but they ain't goin' nowhere. If I'm lucky it'll chug just once then stop. The controller seems pretty sophisticated but the train doesn't seem to respond to its fine controls. Is that typical?
Can't wait to see our findings tomorrow on the voltmeter. I'll definitely keep you updated. Thanks Walt, for the advice. I appreciate it.
Do you have access to a voltmeter? If so try to monitor the track voltage right at the spot where the loco usually stalls. Does the track voltage drop significantly when the train hits the curve? if not then the problem is in the loco. If it does, then you'll have to check the track for continuity problems. Also, have you tried running the train in both directions? does it stall in either direction?
Good luck and keep us informed about your findings.
Greetings:
I'm brand new to the forum and need some desperate help with a recently purchased G-Scale train. If I'm in the wrong area, I apologize, but please direct me to the right forum if that's the case. Thanks…
I grew up with HO trains, but since my kid got into trains we've been to a couple of huge layouts, including a big G-scale one in Pomona, CA. I figured for X-Mas it would be a great gift to get him a big train of his own.
I recently found a G-Scale Bachmann Golden Spike 4-6-0 used for $125; it seemed to be in great condition, and it ran fine on a circle track when the seller demo'd it for me before buying.
So I took it home, and made an oval for my kid to make it a little more interesting. At first it ran fine. Then after awhile, it started stalling out when going into both of the turns. I mean an abrupt loss of power, like someone slammed on the brakes for a split second, then released. The headlight flickered and the speaker in the tender for the "chug" sound even "burped" as it reset. It got really annoying, really fast.
The seller had told me to scrub the rails a bit with a fine sanding block which was furnished, and also to clean the front wheels on the loco, which transferred the power to the engine. I did both, even meticulously rubbing all four of the front wheels down with 91% alcohol and a Q-Tip. Judging from the total blackness of the Q-Tips I thought I'd done the trick, but it made no difference whatsoever; now it's starting to stall going out of the turns as well.
I've begun a tedious process of troubleshooting but was hoping someone here can help me out. The tracks look fine to me; I've cleaned the front wheels pretty well I think, unless there's supposed to be absolutely no black oxide dust on them (in which case, I guess I have to go back to scrubbing); and the connectors between the track are about as good as I can get them without nailing the sections down. Keep in mind too, that the train ran fine for at least a good 10 minutes at a good speed. The track came with a hefty aftermarket controller that was supposedly worth a good amount of cash—I don't have the controller info on me right now but can get it, if that's useful info.
I can supply pictures and even video of the train in motion if that helps too. Thanks in advance for any help or tips. It's a beautiful train, but it's been aggravating trying to figure out what's wrong.
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