20+ yr old LGB power pack issue

[dblply2]

I'm new to model RR's being as I just purchased an unused 20+ yr old LGB starter set. I'll be giving it to my kids for Christmas. When I set it up to make sure it runs for a bit, then shuts off. If I turn the throttle up it sometimes comes back on. Also, if I tap the power pack, it sometimes comes on as well. I'm guessing 20+ yrs of sitting in a box may be the issue? Any ideas on how to fix it? It doesn't look like the power pack can come apart easily...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

~Ross

[Mt Beenak]

G'day and welcome to the forums.  There are several possibilities.  The most likely is that you have set up your track with a short circuit and the power pack has a current limiting device.  I have an old LGB pack also and it behaves this way if I short the terminals.  A bi-metal strip heats up and opens the circuit to prevent overload of the wiring.  When it cools the power comes back on, then heats up again if the short is still there......

Re-check your wiring and make sure there are no direct shorts from one rail to the other.  Also check your loco.  Is your track plan a simple loop?  If you have built a reverse loop, on purpose or by accident that can cause a direct short.

What are you using to regulate the speed?  Is there a control knob on the power pack or are you using a separate control unit?  

The second possibility is that there is a dry solder joint inside the unit.  And you are right, they are generally not designed to be opened.  A competent electronics repairer should be able to help.

Good luck,

Mick.

[dblply2]

Mick,

Thanks for replying. Like I said, I'm completely new to this :)

The track is a simple loop of the track it came with. What does a "reverse loop" look like?

Here is a link to the starter set I purchased: http://www.onlytrains.com/model/trains/72302.html

The transformer is the one supplied with the unit: LGB model # 5003 (w/ knob)

How would you know if there was a short between rail sections?

Thanks!

~ross

[Independent Operator]

I see a bunch of LGB transformers on ebay and they start at around $15.00.  I wish that I would have kept the ones I had.  I had a bunch from all the LGB starter sets I bought when I first got into G Gauge in 2005.  I would have sent you one.  They all worked and were basically new.  I had no problem with them on the simple short run starter sets but when I tried to use them on my full size railroad they just did not have the power to run the bigger engines or even the small engines on that full run.

[dblply2]

Thanks.

So do you think I could have a bad power pack? bummer.

At what point would I need to upgrade the power pack? (ie. how many feet of track, how many engines running, etc.)

 

[two tone]

Hi Ross, always nice to see a new member to the hobby.    I would use a 10amp power supply that is regulated   ( Means no spikes in power to track).  There are plenty of controllers listed in any rail ways mags. I have over 400 feet of track and use the 10amp power supply set at 18volts output, and control my locos with the Train Engineer   not the latest version.    Hope this helps

[vsmith]

Replacing the power pack depends on your long term goals, if this is going to be a seasonal xmas set only, then just ebay a standard 1 amp power pack, LGBs are best. However you are thinking of expanding into the garden or a small indoor layout then investing in a larger 5 or 10 amp pack would be a good idea. I would not recommend a 10amp pack if your just running a small loop around the tree, as it sort of like using a Ferrari V12 to power a Smart Car, it would work, but would be ridiculously overpowered and cost alot of coin to boot, 10 amp packs are not cheap.

In practice the 1 amp packs are great for anything generally room size or smaller. I had a 10' x 20' indoor layout and used the standard 1amp pack no problems, its when you get larger, like over 20' x 20' or are running numorous locos (4+ motor blocks) on the same track that the larger power pack becomes necessary to prevent voltage drop over the increased distance.

[tangerine-jack]

I think you have a short in your track, check the loco and the cars for unauthorized metal parts that might be hung up in the works (like paperclips or children's toys).  A normal powerpack pretty much lasts forever unless it's been grossly overloaded and burned out- in which case it would have a burn mark, melted plastic or a terrible odor.

I use a 10amp Train Engineer for my railroad, it's probably way more than I need but it was on sale at a cheaper price than the 5 amp version- so why not?  It's best to have more than you need if you can get it.  I would suggest holding off on buying anything until you plan out what you want to build, it's far too easy to buy the "eye candy" and then find out you can't use it later on.  G stuff is far too expensive to be impulse buying, so resist the temptation!

[g. gage]

Hi Ross welcome aboard. I don’t have any LGB power supplies but I do have a MRC 6200 power supply that acts like you describe. When there is a short circuit or over load an internal circuit breaker trips. After it cools off it will run again. You can test the loco and power by disconnecting the wiring between the power supply and track at the track connection. Turn the loco on its side or upside down touch the wires to the drive wheels, one wire on each side, and see if it runs ok. If so you have a problem in your track work. If not turn off the switches on the loco one at a time, smoke, lights, sound, motor, etc. and repeat test.

 

I usually figure about 1 amp per motor, so a 1 amp power supply should be ok. Many locos, like diesel models, have two motors. I usually run trains with two or three, two motor diesels. As you can see if you plan to expand it might be worth while getting a 10 amp or larger power supply.

 

Good luck, have fun, Rob    

[dblply2]

Thanks for all the replies!

What a great source of information and support you have here.

I guess my question now is, do you think there really could be a track problem with the ~4' diameter circle track that the starter set came with? Just thinking outloud, if the train will occaisionally start up again after it randomly stops by me cranking the throttle way up, i would think that would lend itself to a powerpack issue. I'll keep fiddling with it and see if I can make it work.

Thanks for the support!

[Mt Beenak]

This might be a little basic, but have you cleaned the rail tops?  What you are now describing is similar to the symptoms when the track is dirty.  Rub the rail tops with a scrubber pad.  I think the brand in the states is 'scotch bright'.  It will buff the rails and allow the electrons to flow to the wheels.  Also check the wheels of the loco and the slider between the wheels, which is another source of power pick up.

A further source of frustration is the rail joiners.  LGB make some of the best, but if the set is that old, they may need cleaning or crimping slightly, to ensure a tight fit.

I know these things are very basic, but sometimes, so am I.

[dblply2]

Thanks Mick,

Although the set is older (circa '85) it is new in the box. The contacts on the bottom of the engine didn't even have a scratch when I first put it on the track. I'll check the rail jointers for a good fit when I set it back up again.

~Ross

[grandpopswalt]

You mentioned that if you "tap" the transformer it sometimes comes on. That could be an intermittent connection (bad solder joint) inside or it could be as simple as 20 years of dust and oxidation on the slider/transformer windings. Try vigorously moving the throttle handle from zero to full-on position many, many times. This often cleans off the dust.and oxidation and restores normal operation.

Good luck,

Walt