Hi, i purchased a bacmann mogul spectrum series back in dec of 09 but havnt had a chance to run it until today. I had previously oiled it like they suggested but when i layed it on track the motor turns but the wheels dont.. To me this is not good, but im having a hard time beleiving this train is bad out of the box.This is not a cheap loco. Am i forgetting to do something? I turned it over took off the bottom cover , all looks fine but the wheels just wont turn with the gear. The plastic gear turns but not the brass worm gear. Do you have to put it in gear? This train came with a vhs tape but since i dont have a vcr anymore i thought maybe im missing something. What do yall think?
G'day Blumule,
There is another thread running called 'B-Mann Connie 2-8-0' which discusses your problem. It appears the main drive gear on the axle has probably split. Have a look at the post for more info. Good Luck.
Mick
Chief Operating Officer
Northern Timber Company - Mt Beenak
Hi Blumule, Sounds like the main drive wheel has split, get it back to where you purchased it as its still in warranty. Ask for a replacement NOT a repair the law states that a unit should be 100% to do what it should. Good luck.
Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life
thanks. im sure your right. its going back to bachmann for repair i assume. what a joke for a loco,
Thats the problem with products made in the far east, when you see some of the production lines over that part of the world im suprised any thing works. Still as Ive already said NEW for OLD not a repair its not 12 months old yet. If they say its got to be a repair ask them to put metal gears in for customer satisfaction
Asking Bachmann to replace their plastic gear with metal will get you nowhere -- they don't use metal gears in anything, so they will repair it with a plastic gear.
I was asked to weigh in on this subject.
I have basically stopped participation on forums, but do participate when asked.
Split axle gears is nothing new from the manufacturer in question.
Obtaining a "new" axle gear from the same manufacturer is really an excercise in futility.
Being very careful here, you would not believe the brand-new split-at-the-hub gears I see on one model in particular from one manufacturer in particular.
I have stocked NWSL gears since long before Raul sold to OSO.
I consider the MACHINED DELRIN gears to be far superior to the cast plastic that come on the units from the factory.
(I laugh (uproariously) when I see folks claim they are getting "metal axle gears" from NWSL/OSO)
Don't waste your time and money getting parts from the locomotive manufacturer.
Do it right.
E-mail me if you need to be walked through dropping the valve gear to get the box apart.
You WILL learn something doing this, and be a more rounded individual for it.
I totaly agree with Curmudgeon, B-Mann is notoreous for split gears I now am the sad ouner of 2 out fo warrenty Connie's with split gear's Both of mine sat on shelf's for year's before being run. Just get new gear's from NWSL Connie part # 2226-6 for 12.95 . Give them a call or check there site www.nwsl.com
Dave
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
Im interested in the dalrin gear.However this is a 2-6-0 mogul and not the connie.Im not sure if this matters just wanted to clarify. also a step by step walk through would be helpful. Im pretty good at taking apart and putting back but always open to making it easier. How much for the gear.Give me your address and ill send the money. Im not trusting b-mann much anymore.
Hey. I ordered the part from nwsl .it was part number 2223-6 for the mogul.Still need your walk through though. I feel better already.
It shouldn't be as hard as a Connie, You may not even have to open it up. A bottem view and side view's would be helpfull. BTW where do you live, Area will do.......
It's harder than a 2-8-0 to do.
First, get a camera or a pad of paper and pencil, to show where every part goes, the order, and direction.
I am doing this from memory.
Remove all the rod on the side of the drivers.
Remove the centre caps on the driven axle.(10mm size, roughly....catch under the edge with a chisel xacto blade and work off)
Remove screws and any washers inside the pocket under those caps.
Remove the bottom cover over the driven axle.
Lift the motor and driven axle up, being careful of springs and such, not to lose them.
Slide the journals off the axles.
Slide the valve gear and cams off one side, making absolutely certain you know how they came apart.
Slide the motor over and remove the other valve gear bits.
2-6-0's usually have a plug on the motor wiring, unfortunately, often it is jammed into the boiler and necessitates boiler removal to get it out.
However, try working the wires out to gain access to the plug.
Open gearbox.....6 screws, 4 on one side around the axle, 2 on the other near the motor.
Separate gearbox, watching where each part goes.
Remove axle and bushings.
Press new gear on using a vise and a deep 1/4" drive socket to the centre.
Re-lube and re-assemble the gearbox.
NOW is the time to remove the noise board on the back of the motor.
The wires come into the board, each one close to a motor terminal.
Unsolder one wire from the board, unsolder the board from the motor pin closest to the wire you removed, tip the board up.
Re-solder that wire to that motor terminal.
Repeat other side.
Now, using your photos or drawings, re-assemble valve gear, journal blocks, drivers, rods, bottom cover.
Try it.
I know I missed something, but that should get you started.
That valve gear and cams will drive you crazy.
what do you mean by removing the noise board?
Two things...
The "noise board" is the circuit that's attached to the back of the motor; a noise filter to keep your trains from interfering with silly things like your TV.
As for the eccentrics, when you pull them off the axle (carefully), get a small clamp to hold them together until you're ready to put them back on the axle.
Later,
K
That is way harder then the Connie.
dave
Not really plug and pray, is it?
Kinda reminds me of this innovative TV set came out several decades ago...."Quasar".
Plug and Pray.
Open the door in the front, all the circuit boards were slide out, supposedly technicians could swap out boards and have you running in minutes.
Except, the part that died the most was the main hard-wired power supply which took a major teardown to reach....
So, the highest failure rate is the hardest to get to.
Of COURSE we're talking TV sets, right?
Broke this baby down tonight and sure enough it had a split main drive gear.no wonder she sat there spinning. When the new gear gets here should i just press it on or put a little jb weld on the shaft before pressing it on?Also to dave or curmudgeon i found a small spring laying in the gearbox ind cant figure where it goes.Any ideas? This teardown went to smooth to be true. Also why not swap all these gears to dalrin gears?I also noted about every screw including yhe motor mounts were loose. What is bachmann doing selling these things for this price DANG!.Im going back over this whole thing tightening screws.
Take a look at the thred called ' Engine Knock " . It deals with some of us loose screws.
Yeah since 2001 I've been telling everybody to check every screw and those metal to metal use 222 Locktite.
What are they doing?Heck if I know.
Last (and I mean last) communication I had with them, they said they would handle everything in-house.
With nobody holding their feet to the fire, this is apparently what you get.
Last guy who complained on these forums about Bachmann got their thread yanked.
So be careful.
There are people watching.
As far as the rest, the others don't seem to cause any issues, and you'd be hard pressed to find exact replacement.
No idea on the spring...no springs in those boxes.
The gear is press-fit only, NO glue.
post back later after gear install. thanks again to dave and the mudge for your time and patience and all else who posted.I feel the hairs on the back of my neck standing up, better go.Later guys.
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