Dumb Question #1 Should a Connie roll freely without power??
#2 Should a Connie's gear tower rock from side to side?? Motor mounts are teght!
#3 Should the main drive axel gear move from side to side??
#4 What is the shelf life of a Connie, Mine are both First run vershions with 2-3 hours of well lubed run time
With the drive locked my Connie's ran fine over my 8,9,10,11.5 dia track, when the wheels turn freely the will not move, What I find each time is the main drive axle gear has moved off center. Yes the bushings are in place. Is there a way of keeping the gear in place short of using E6000 on it?
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
1. No, this indicates a cracked gear on the main drive axle (the one with no wheel flanges).
2. Yes, there should be some play.
3. No. If it moves, it is cracked and needs to be replaced.
4. There are two ways to correct the problem:
a. Purchase a replacement wheelset with axle and gear from Bachmann parts department. But you're going to get another nylon gear which will not last very long before it splits.
b. Purchase a replacement drive mechanism from Barry's Big Trains in Tolleson, Arizona, which uses a metal gear.
Split drive gears on Bachmann steam engines, both Big Hauler and Spectrum, are their most notorious flaw. Right now I have two that need new gears, a Consolidation and a 2-6-0 Mogul. Bachmann uses a nylon gear press fit onto a knurled axle. Perhaps the fit was too tight, and the gears split open over time.
Also, you should never push a Bachmann steam engine on the track because this will cause the gear to strip loose from the axle.
I'm preparing to install a Barry's Big Trains modification into my Connie, but he doesn't have anything to correct the problem with the Mogul.
Maybe I didn't make my self clear, my Connie is the Spectrum 1/20.3, BBT doesn't list replacement parts for the engine, But I did sent Him a note requesting Info.
Thanks Dave
That's the exact same Connie I have -- I think it is the only one Bachmann made. His Remotor and gear kit is BBT 80280, priced at $200.00 plus shipping.
I've actually seen some new Bachmann 1:20.3 Connie's for sale from St Aubin Trains and Trainworld for $75 to $80 more than Barry's regear kit, but you'd still be stuck with a nylon gear that cracks. I actually have two Bachmann 1:20.3 Consolidations with cracked gears -- the second one didn't last six months before cracking.
Hi Guys,
I'm pretty sure North West Shortline makes a brass replacement gear for the Connie at about $15.
Check them out.
Rick
NORCAL LOGGER Hi Guys, I'm pretty sure North West Shortline makes a brass replacement gear for the Connie at about $15. Check them out. Rick
Get a web site, I tried finding one??
Dave
dwbeckett NORCAL LOGGER: Hi Guys, I'm pretty sure North West Shortline makes a brass replacement gear for the Connie at about $15. Check them out. Rick Get a web site, I tried finding one?? Dave
NORCAL LOGGER: Hi Guys, I'm pretty sure North West Shortline makes a brass replacement gear for the Connie at about $15. Check them out. Rick
I found the web site real hard to find, only took some common sence, NWSL.COM... I have not confermed this yet but the Part number is 2226-6 #1 B-Mann 2-8-0 Cost is $12.95 . They also have a down loadable parts catalog that made me droul all over my keyboard.
The NWSL gear is Delrin (plastic), not brass, but is more substantial in cross section than the stock Bachmann gear. I just installed one on my B'mann 2-8-0 a few months ago. It's not too difficult a repair. (It's semi-chronicled in an upcoming Garden Railways Basics column.) The gear is very similar in size and material to the gears that NWSL has used in their #1-gauge motor blocks, which I've been using for 20+ years in a few of my locos without any trouble. I have every confidence that it would give similar results, but obviously cannot predict the future.
The BBT drive is another great alternative, albeit a fair premium over the NWSL gear. Shortly after replacing the gear in my 2-8-0 with the NWSL gear, I got one of Barry's assemblies to do a product review. It's up to his usual high standards, and while I can no more predict the future relative to this as I can the NWSL gear, I will say it is in all probability the last time you will ever have to even think about the gears in your loco. They've got a long reputation for being VERY robust. (The motor also gives the loco a bit more oomph.) You can read my product review in the upcoming December issue of GR.
If the gear engages on the axle, it may not be cracked all the way through. I've heard of people fixing this by getting some brass tubing and making a sleeve around the hub of the gear. I had that problem on my 4-4-0, where the hub cracked so that the gear could slide off to the side, but the outer edge was solid. I fixed it in placewith a bit of JB Weld and it's worked great since. NWSL also makes Delrin replacement gears for the B'mann 2-6-0/4-4-0. (They use the same gearbox). I wish Barry made a replacement drive for those. I don't think the 2-8-0 gear box is narrow enough to fit between the frames with the eccentrics for the valve gear.
Later,
K
Thank's K, as per usal you provieded me with some outstanding information.
Kevin, one more question do I need to remove the axel or can I try the JB weld after cleaning with the axel in place.
Thanks, Dave Former Castle Rock Co resident
If the gear isn't cracked all the way through, just give the axle a thorough cleaning with a degreaser of some variety. (409, etc.) You'll want to separate the axle assembly from the gearbox just so you can get to it to clean it, but you shouldn't have to take the counterweights, wheels, etc. off. Remove the plastic "runners" along the bottom of the frame that hold the axle bearing blocks in place on the frame, then you can pull the axle out just a bit. (Watch out that you don't lose the springs between the frame and the top of the bearing block, though. Small springs and screws find the gateway to the parallel universe better than anything else I've ever seen.) You should have enough play there so that you can pull things out around 1/2" without much difficulty.
It doesn't take much JB Weld, but you can leave just a trace on the outside edge of the gear that will form a lip to keep the gear in place. There's not a lot of play between the stock gear and the bronze bushings on the axle, but there's enough.
If the gear's cracked through to the edge (but not split in two) you may be able to fix it with some JB Weld and two 1/16" slices of 3/8" (inside diameter) brass tubing. The Bachmann gear has an "I" shaped cross section, and the 3/8" tubing sleeve fits over the hub. This should compress the gear so that it works smoothly again. Then you can JB Weld the gear back on the axle. That involves pulling the axle assembly, removing the counterweights, wheels, bearing blocks, and all that fun stuff. Personally, if I were going to go through all that trouble, I'd spend the $12 (plus shipping) and order the stronger replacement gear from NWSL. Keep the stock gear with the brass sleeves as a spare "just in case."
Thank's K, I will get back to you in about a week or so, We are going out of town for a few days.
I also have a Connie that had the gear problem. Welcome to the club! Bachmann did send me a replacement at no charge for the wheel gear assembly since it broke the first month I ran it. In an earlier post I described a solution that replaced the plastic gear with a metal one from an RC car part. It cost me less than $5 but it did take some time to do the reconstruction. I believe I posted some pictures of the rebuild.
Rex
I finaly ordered my gear's for both of my Connie's on 10/4/10 they will be comming by snall mail. The correct and easyest way to access NWSL is with the following URL www.shop.osorail.com You do not have to sign up to buy anything but it helps if you plan buying more then once as I do since I have USA Trains NW-2 to fix. I will be posting picture's of the Fix once I start.
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