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Engine Knocking

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  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Arizona (high country 7k ft) USA
  • 676 posts
Posted by Rex in Pinetop on Tuesday, August 24, 2010 12:14 AM

Thanks for the tip on the 2-8-0.  I'll check my counterweights out.  Right now I'm cleaning wheels after applying balast glue which of course makes the rails a little sticky which in turn transfers to the wheels..

Rex

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Centennial, CO
  • 1,192 posts
Posted by kstrong on Friday, August 20, 2010 10:30 PM

Not quite the same. The 2-8-0 counterweights have screws that work loose over time so the counterweights are able to wobble out and in relative to the frame. The first batch of K-27s that were produced had counterweights that--even though screwed snugly to the axle--could still rotate. Bachmann fixed that with the second run by re-engineering the counterweights so they couldn't rotate. I've not heard of any issues with the screws on the K-27 counterweights working loose as they do with the 2-8-0, but it probably doesn't hurt to go through and tighten them up every now and then. A little PM goes a long way.

Later,

K

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Sunny West Coast of Florida
  • 448 posts
Posted by IRB Souther Engineer on Friday, August 20, 2010 7:46 PM

I think the bachmann K-27 had a similar problem-with the counterweights...

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Centennial, CO
  • 1,192 posts
Posted by kstrong on Friday, August 20, 2010 10:00 AM

The loose screws on the counterweights is unfortunately very common on the B-mann 2-8-0. It's part of my routine maintenance on that loco to go through with a screwdriver and tighten them up--about once a year for what I run it. If you run it more often, you'll want to check them a bit more periodically. Loc-tite can help, but I find it just as effective to simply give them the occasional once-over.

If the screws get too loose--especially the front ones--they'll get loose to the point where they hit the siderods and lock up the drive. So, if you're running along and all of a sudden, full stop, check the screws on the counterweights.  

Later,

K

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Oakley Ca
  • 1,407 posts
Posted by dwbeckett on Friday, August 20, 2010 9:07 AM
ttrigg

So, you are telling us that you’ve got a "loose screw"? Dunce Glad to see I’m not alone.Laugh Thanks for the tip.

no i thinks i got a lemon,

Dave

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
  • 3,092 posts
Posted by ttrigg on Thursday, August 19, 2010 8:43 PM

So, you are telling us that you’ve got a "loose screw"? Dunce Glad to see I’m not alone.Laugh Thanks for the tip.

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Oakley Ca
  • 1,407 posts
Engine Knocking
Posted by dwbeckett on Thursday, August 19, 2010 4:22 PM

After repairing my Connie's PCB I found a problem with  the Gear Tower , Yes it was reassambled and ran for about 30 min's, So after fixing the gear tower $.27 copper washer and lots of lub, I was test runing and found it to run with knock sound in reverse, but ran good in forward with some noise. I slowed down the engine and started looking for missaligned parts, What I found was the drive wheel counterwheight had a wobble . So to make long story longer, I tightened the screw that holds the counterwheight on. Since I had the screw driver in my hand I checked the rest, I found 6 of 8 total needed to be tighted. So the root cause of my noise was a loose screw.

Dave.Back to having fun

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

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